what to do ?

Clearly, there is something different about cylinder 4. That one is much darker. The igniter will not cause that. It can be a coil, but that is replaced. It can be a coil wire, but that was replaced. So that leaves the #4 carb is suspect., or the cylinder condition.

Have we seen a final, properly done, compression test result yet?

1. in cylinder 4 is good compression its 150 .
2. the timing advancer was so rusty i clean it. like in manual . only before then i use T mark on 1 cylinder the pointer was in the left side now after cleaning its in right. and on coil wire is black on 1-4 cylinder and green 2-3.
2, the mechanic do test for valves he test using 10.bar pressed air and it was hold no leaks. all 4 cylinder. only he dont like that engine is not so hard sucking all mixture in to engine .











engine still don't respond and backfire in to carbs then i try to use throttle grip.

maybe the exhaust is blocking ????? try to tace down the pipes and clean them ??? in cylinder 4>?

her stuk and rusty advancer you can see it in left side on T mark.

i search again in forum so i found : from loudhvx:


Do you have a timing light? Can you verify the timing on all 4 plugs? That is, from F mark to double line mark and back, and at the RPMs specified in the manual. To get marks on the 2-3 side, just draw a line from the 1-4 mark, through the center of the advancer, to the other side. You'll have to estimate a little bit.

It sounds like a possibly frozen advancer. That will stop a motor from developing any power, but it may rev fully with no load. Have you tried moving the advancer by hand? It should easily move forward to a stop, then snap back... like a well oiled gun.

Even with stock jetting, it wouldn't run that bad just from having pods on it. If it was a lean main jet, you would initially be able to go WOT in high gear, as that is when it would be rich. As the RPMs go up, then it would start hesitating (from leanness). But if you can't go WOT in higher gears, it's not likely the main jet. A retarded advance would cause that symptom, and would be very sputtery, as if the ignition was failing.

Other possibilities, but not nearly as likely: Weak coils, weak igniter, plug gaps too big (way too big), .... probably others I'm forgetting.

i will try to test again the advancer only i fink is in wrong way pointing because in picture it in left side :

zirafin wrote: 1. in cylinder 4 is good compression its 150 .
2. the timing advancer was so rusty i clean it. like in manual . only before then i use T mark on 1 cylinder the pointer was in the left side now after cleaning its in right. and on coil wire is black on 1-4 cylinder and green 2-3.
2, the mechanic do test for valves he test using 10.bar pressed air and it was hold no leaks. all 4 cylinder. only he dont like that engine is not so hard sucking all mixture in to engine .

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engine still don't respond and backfire in to carbs then i try to use throttle grip.

maybe the exhaust is blocking ????? try to tace down the pipes and clean them ??? in cylinder 4>?

In the pic you have the T mark lined up. That's for cam timing NOT ignition. Set it so it will fire on the F mark.
Steve

can u write more info how to set on f mark ?????

for transistor ignition how to do ?? if to use strobe to check if f mark is in plays ? and if not how to adjust ??? in manual i can find it.

ok again biggg thanks to loudhvx post in forum :

It should be a transistorized ignition.
It needs to be timed using the F mark at idle.
If it truly is that far off, you can slot the plate, but there are other possible reasons for the timing being off.

It's possible the magnets are not assembled correctly if you or someone else took it all apart.
gpzweb.s3-website-us-east-1.amazonaws.co.../PickupAndRotor.html

Or it's possible the iron pointer of the rotor is not located correctly on the rotor tube.
For that, you can just press the iron rotor off of the tube and press it on in the correct orientation.

To set/check it, make sure the advancer is fully in the retarded position. Rotate the crank clockwise, when viewed from the ignition side, until the F mark lines up with the pointer cast into the engine case. The point of the rotor should be just barely past the center of the pickup (with blue and black wires). If it's far off, use a sharpie to mark where it should be and press the rotor off, then back on in the correct position.

halo i dindt post long time
so i changet rotor advancer, my was 10% locking difrent way,
but after i wanted to start the engine starter get stuck, so give it a fix to autoelectric, after fix i notic that my starter is not turning nice engin, vimeo.com/234181698

The batery is full of charger, after I tace out the starter, and put my finger inside the hole and this sprocket is muving all directions 2-3 mm .i fink its bad ..starter clutch???? can some one say how to fixs .

then no spark plugs in engine its turning engine wery nice.

starter hole