what to do ?

650ed wrote: You may not have tested the compression properly. To do so :

The engine must be warmed up to normal operating temperature. The pistons taper in near the top so with the engine warmed up they expand near the top which helps the rings seal against the cylinder walls.

The battery needs to be fully charged.

The throttle needs to be held all the way open.

All spark plugs must be removed.

If you do all that and compression is still low you should perform a leak down test. That will identify where the compression is leaking (could be valves, rings, head gasket, etc.) If you remove the cylinder head before performing the leak down test you will have lost the opportunity to use that diagnostic tool.
Ed

Please confirm how you did the compression test. Did you do what Ed said?

Does your compression gauge have a check valve in the tip? If not, that will cause low readings.

The needle jet does not have an oring.

The float needle's seat does have a gasket.

I don't really want to repeat the service manual on my site. But my site does show the gasket.

o ring is on jet holder sorry if i write wrong .
and gasket is on picture but not all can see special me

compression i was doing : warm engine . tace out spark plugs and test . i can do it tomorrow again , after i test the carburetor if missing o rings and gaskets then valve clearance , and then compression again.

Ed said the throttle must be held wide open during the test.
Did you do that?

ok so it not enough to use choke on . ok i will try to throttle go all open ( i hope i understand u its throttle-in picture)

zirafin wrote: ok so it not enough to use choke on . ok i will try to throttle go all open ( i hope i understand u its throttle-in picture)

Attachment index.jpeg not found

yes.

Choke open all the way.
Throttle open all the way.

hi
carbs its ok all parts is in.
valve clearance : picture . i turn using 17 wrench each valve lift up and test .

what kind of shims do i need i fink its will be very hard to gen for me .only on ebay .

so on cylinder 4 on ex side its stuck the cup . i will try to tace out using the magnet . i use tools.but its go out .

after i tace out i use micrometer .in picture its write shim thickness from 1 til 8 in black color.
from manual valve clearance its

ex 0.15-0.25mm
in 0.10-0.20 mm



so if i want new shims to mace at metalworkers

i do :
1. 0.15mm is valve clearance i need to have 0,20 mm
0.20-0.15=0.05 mm
shim is standing under cup 2.44 mm
2.44-0.05=2.39mm2.38mm

so i need to make 2.39 mm 2.38 mm shim

next shims i have on paper :




its ok o i need others shims o i can grind shims at metalworkers???