carb tune help/procedure

blink543 wrote:

swest wrote: I can tell by the boots. They're noise suppression wires. Better off with some 7mm hard wire and NGK caps. You might have bad connections at the coils. They look cool but unless you have the proper connections, they will fail in a short amount of time. I'm sure you know about the dust boots on the forks. You should get new ones or the seals can be damaged.
Steve

I have to take the fork off to change the seals right? Well the coils are firing so why change them?

I mean boots

They can seem like they are firing but under load they can misfire. If you have the slip in coils, try cutting 1/4" off the ends and put them back in. Still the wires have resistance but if it runs better, you found one problem. You can take one fork off at a time, put the boot on and do the other one.
Steve

swest wrote: They can seem like they are firing but under load they can misfire. If you have the slip in coils, try cutting 1/4" off the ends and put them back in. Still the wires have resistance but if it runs better, you found one problem. You can, take one fork off at a time, put the boot on and do the other one.
Steve

Well I've never changed spark wires on anything ever I didn't know the wire boot was separate either. Idk what to do about that. Therez lots of different wires on the internet I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I'd need to troubleshoot the spark wires first

TTG
Steve

I ran solid copper core wires from the start ...... they come with the plug boots attached and you install the end for the coil after cutting it to the right length I slipped em in the stock coils for a few years then soldered the ends on the other sets for the dyna coils. Gone threw 3 sets ....from Z-1 and Ebay....1st set from Andrews were white, yellow and now back to standard black.

KZB2 650 wrote: I ran solid copper core wires from the start ...... they come with the plug boots attached and you install the end for the coil after cutting it to the right length I slipped em in the stock coils for a few years then soldered the ends on the other sets for the dyna coils. Gone threw 3 sets ....from Z-1 and Ebay....1st set from Andrews were white, yellow and now back to standard black.

Do u have links to these parts?

swest wrote: I can tell by the boots. They're noise suppression wires. Better off with some 7mm hard wire and NGK caps. You might have bad connections at the coils. They look cool but unless you have the proper connections, they will fail in a short amount of time. I'm sure you know about the dust boots on the forks. You should get new ones or the seals can be damaged.
Steve

The spark wires say hi temp super stock copper core 7mm

Typically, the gap gets smaller, sometimes less than zero. When the lash gets near or to zero cold, the cam can actually hold the valve open slightly when it is supposed to be closed. Under these conditions, the performance of the engine will slowly deteriorate, ultimately to a point at which it will not run. Often, valves and seats get burned, which can be expensive to fix.
It is not a terribly complicated or expensive procedure, and it may help your present difficulties, though I doubt if this is the only problem. It may also save you money later.

blink543 wrote:

TexasKZ wrote: By the way, 25,000 miles without checking the valve lash is much too long. That could be the main problem.

Yes maybe but it's not like I'm never going to do it probably later this yr or next spring. What symptoms would I be experiencing if they needed adjusting? I mean I do hear the cams hitting the buckets a little but I think that's normal.

TexasKZ wrote: Typically, the gap gets smaller, sometimes less than zero. When the lash gets near or to zero cold, the cam can actually hold the valve open slightly when it is supposed to be closed. Under these conditions, the performance of the engine will slowly deteriorate, ultimately to a point at which it will not run. Often, valves and seats get burned, which can be expensive to fix.
It is not a terribly complicated or expensive procedure, and it may help your present difficulties, though I doubt if this is the only problem. It may also save you money later.

blink543 wrote:

TexasKZ wrote: By the way, 25,000 miles without checking the valve lash is much too long. That could be the main problem.

Yes maybe but it's not like I'm never going to do it probably later this yr or next spring. What symptoms would I be experiencing if they needed adjusting? I mean I do hear the cams hitting the buckets a little but I think that's normal.

0 as in the opposite of the lobe actually touching the bucket when it's not supposed to? Is that what I'm understanding?

You can get all those bits separately, but one thing to keep in mind is that you do not want more than one of them to be resistor. That is, you can run resistor plugs (usually have R in the part number) OR resistor caps, OR resistor wires, not AND any of them. You can run without resistor anything, with the only downside being that folks near you when you drive will get some rf interferance on their radio.

blink543 wrote:

swest wrote: They can seem like they are firing but under load they can misfire. If you have the slip in coils, try cutting 1/4" off the ends and put them back in. Still the wires have resistance but if it runs better, you found one problem. You can, take one fork off at a time, put the boot on and do the other one.
Steve

Well I've never changed spark wires on anything ever I didn't know the wire boot was separate either. Idk what to do about that. Therez lots of different wires on the internet I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I'd need to troubleshoot the spark wires first

Blink543.... 25,000 miles is way too long to not check cam and shim clearances.
I used to check mine around every 4,000 to 6,000 miles.... seems like a short time but these are NOT cars.
However, did I miss something here or did you say you have what amounts to you either having no interest/willingness or desire to do the cam lobe/shim measurements? Or is it simply, just no experience and fear of the unknown,
Why? Because none of us here ever did it before the first time either!!!
And, after I did it once, I was quite amused to hear my friends say they were taking their bikes "in" to have it done!!
LOL
It turns out, the actual act of measuring is the stupidest easiest part!
The tricky part is slightly holding the valve open with a $10.00 gadget on the edge of the bucket, wedged in between it and the camshaft, while slipping the shim out with a pair of tweezers.
The maddening part to me has always been buying, ordering and waiting for the shims needed to replace the ones that are a tiny bit too thick now.... etc.
I can't speak for others but I've don't think I've ever had to replace a shim that was anymore then one or two sizes thinner then the number on the shim I pulled out..... unless the head had recently had new valves installed and or a valve grind job.
But you might not even know that so.... get a factory manual and read all about it. You'll quickly discover how simple checking lash is... then if you need more help... you are in the right place.

Z1E offers Dyna 7mm solid copper core spark plug wires.
See the following links:

Dyna black 7mm copper core from Z1E

Dyna red 7mm copper core from Z1E

The spark plug wire exterior insulation deteriorates over time and becomes cracked and brittle, allowing leakage of high tension voltage, and moisture intrusion.

The Dyna spark plug wires come already equipped with built-in caps (aka boots or covers).
They are intended for fitment to ignition coils that accept removable plug wires (not coils with permanently built-in plug wires aka integrated plug wires).

Am guessing that the bike at hand has plug wires that are detachable from the coils, so that new plug wires may be fitted to the existing coils.

Good Fortune!