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carb tune help/procedure
- blink543
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- 650ed
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For future reference, assuming that photo shows your carbs, they are not the air screw type; they are the pilot screw type.
Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- blink543
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650ed wrote: OK. Those screws that have the locknuts on them that are under the carb caps are not air screws. They are in fact the individual throttle adjusting screws, and yes they are the screws you use to synchronize the carbs, They do not change the air/fuel mixture at all. What they do is raise or lower the slide inside the carb. By raising or lowering the slides one.can adjust the amount of vacuum inside the carb when the engine is idling. When the vacuum in all 4 carbs is the same at idle, the carbs are synchronized.
For future reference, assuming that photo shows your carbs, they are not the air screw type; they are the pilot screw type.
Ed
Yeah those are the carbs on my bike
Adam james
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- blink543
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Adam james
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- SWest
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Steve
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- SWest
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Steve
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- KZB2 650
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The Clymer says the same thing except does not say to remove the limiter first but does say after adj of 1 and a 1/8th turns replace the limiter with the tab facing foward.
Like Ed says they probably should be left alone unless someone has played with em or you or someone else removed them for carb cleaning.
Both my manuals are for the 1978 KZ650B.
1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
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- Zephyrrider
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19 -24 cmhg on the 76 and 14 cmhg min on the 81 but forget that and work on getting them as equal as possible.
Sync screw out decreases vacumn and in increases .
The air mixture screw settings are different for models also.
3/4 out for the 76 - thought it was 1 7/8 out for the 78 but could have read it wrong. Has your clymer got that setting ?
When you do find the exact setting for your model and if you have mucked with them i would take them out carefully and check em out - make sure all parts are there - reinstall - reseat them Gently just till you feel them stop - dont force them - go easy.
Then take notice where they seat - i use a marker pen when seated so it gives a good idea - back out slowly to your model spec and then sync.
Mick
1994 ZR750 Zephyr C4.
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- blink543
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KZB2 650 wrote: In the factory manual it says to first remove the pilot screw limiter then turn in the pilot screw gently in till it seats and then back it out 1 and 1/8th turn .....then push the limiter back on with the ridge ( tab) facing forward.
The Clymer says the same thing except does not say to remove the limiter first but does say after adj of 1 and a 1/8th turns replace the limiter with the tab facing foward.
Like Ed says they probably should be left alone unless someone has played with em or you or someone else removed them for carb cleaning.
Both my manuals are for the 1978 KZ650B.
What's a pilot screw limiter? Not familiar
Adam james
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- SWest
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Steve
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- blink543
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swest wrote: That's a plastic POS they put on there to keep the owners from adjusting the leanness out. Some have a cap pressed in so you can't get to it. We do anyway. :evil:
Steve
Put on where?
Adam james
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