TOPIC:

zed1015 wrote:

Zilla wrote:

SWest wrote: You should be able to adjust them back about 1/2 way.
Steve

Ok thanks, and the shaft that the needle slides bolt to that’s pretty much straight forward there’s no way to put that in wrong is there? All bolts are in and that flat piece with the notch in it in between the 1 and 2 carb.

I’ll give it a try tomorrow, wonder if I have the right slides for these carbs.

Slide cutaway doesn't affect idle.
They affect mixture strength from around 1/8th to 1/2 throttle.

Zilla wrote: Does the pully stop have to be in a certain spot to bench sync. I’m missing something, cause off a bench sync it’s idle is to high, backing off the idle adjustment screw don’t work cause I run out of screw so I have to adjust the needle slides and they so far in I almost run out of threads.

Like I said, the throttle slide adjusters are in too far (not enough threads showing above the nut). This causes the slide to sit too far open. You need to loosen the lock nuts, adjust the slides so you have a few threads showing above the nut, and then set the idle down with the main adjuster.

Nessism wrote:

Zilla wrote: Does the pully stop have to be in a certain spot to bench sync. I’m missing something, cause off a bench sync it’s idle is to high, backing off the idle adjustment screw don’t work cause I run out of screw so I have to adjust the needle slides and they so far in I almost run out of threads.

Like I said, the throttle slide adjusters are in too far (not enough threads showing above the nut). This causes the slide to sit too far open. You need to loosen the lock nuts, adjust the slides so you have a few threads showing above the nut, and then set the idle down with the main adjuster.

Ok, gonna look again tomorrow, I know when i would raise the screw to get more thread above the nut the slide would rise and the bike would idle up. So I got to get a better starting point, I think I’m just doing it wrong to start with.

Zilla wrote: , I know when i would raise the screw to get more thread above the nut the slide would rise and the bike would idle up.

My bad, I think I'm the one that's got it backwards. Maybe your throttle adjuster has the wrong spring on it?

Nessism wrote:

Zilla wrote: , I know when i would raise the screw to get more thread above the nut the slide would rise and the bike would idle up.

My bad, I think I'm the one that's got it backwards. Maybe your throttle adjuster has the wrong spring on it?

Idk, cause when I set my idle screw so there is a gap between the stop and throttle pully and I try then to get the gap of 0.7mm or a 20ga wire in between the slides and the bores I get close to running out of threads on the adjustment screws, I feel like I put something together wrong . I’m gonna keep at it till I get it.

I've got a couple sets of VM26's here and when tweaking the throttlestop I can make the slides completely close. I think you (somehow) gotta figure out why the slides sit open so far.

Ok, gonna get back at it shortly, when u do the sync with the wire where does the wire go in the little slot or next to it?

I WOULD SAY IN THE CUTOUT.

Agree with Steve. In the slot.

Happy thanksgiving everybody, well the pic below is what I’ve done in the mean time far as getting fuel to the carbs, so it will idle fine and rev up with a little throttle but if u try and drive it it will shut down idle drops then dies. I was gonna drive it today for the first time since I put the carbs on but it dang sure won’t go. Where do I start looking.

Sounds like you're not getting the proper fuel/air mixture.

Back in the late '70's Kawasaki was jumping through hoops to make their bikes compliant with EPA emissions. They went from the original Z1 28mm VM's to 26 mm VM's without an accelerator pump, then briefly to the 26 mm VM's WITH a pump and then to 28 mm VM's with a pump. Carbs were set leaner and leaner, particularly at idle. The pump was intended to give a small shot of gas when the throttle was initially blipped. As someone already stated, the 26 mm VM's with a pump were the worst of the VM series, which is why they went to 28 VM's in late '78 or early '79. The 26 VM's were the leanest of the lean, and adding stacks, as you have would probably make them even leaner. I wouldn't bother trying to get them to work properly on a big engine but if you want to fiddle around I would recommend larger pilots to give more fuel in the low rpm range. For mid range improvement you might want to lift your needles, or maybe go back to the needles and needle jets used in an earlier version of that series...say 1976 or 1977.