rs34's

Mark im thinking your going to have to live with the reversion with that lobe center. maybe 2 deg advance on the intake would make a world of diff. It would take advantage of the high lift, more volume and higher air speed.

nads.com wrote:

Mark im thinking your going to have to live with the reversion with that lobe center. maybe 2 deg advance on the intake would make a world of diff. It would take advantage of the high lift, more volume and higher air speed.

My clacking is very good now. Very little at all.
ThanksB)

compression did not rise with added oil because the ring seal is good. I never expect much or any dif. unless the cylinders are dry the first time. The cams are bleeding off the compression, this is normal. Stock cams in your motor would show much higher and thats normal too. If there is any valve sealing issues the motor would not have more than 90 or 110, these are some base figures that are common. When checking comp. with a gauge, always pay close attention to the reading the first and second strokes, these readings will be low like 90 for example (if you had a bent valve or broken piston rings), and will rise slowly and very little at that every stroke after. Comp. would have to be around 90 for the vac. signal to be too weak to draw in fuel from the carb.

one thing i have noticed with flat slide carb's is that they can be very noisy you outa hear a zx7rr with the airbox off you can barely hear yourself think.same thing with dry clutches just part of the package i guess.i think that is one of the main reasons that mikuni went to roller bearing slides on there big harley flatslides.

Man I hate carb work sometimes!!

Back when I first started my engine, I could barely keep it running unless the choke was on (brand new carbs, new engine rebuild). As I had posted previously, I changed the pilot jets from 17.5 up to 22.5 and it was much better. I then went down to 20 pilots and synched the carbs - another big improvement. Fouled a plug and decided to lean out some more.

Went to swap the 20 pilots for 17.5's today, and just to be sure I checked the 17.5's to make sure they were clear. 2 of them were totally plugged up!!:ohmy: I just cleaned them and will try again - what a pita!!! It sure makes it difficult to tune carbs when you have several variables changing at once. I'm trying to price having them dialed in on a dyno. Maybe it would be worth it just once??

hey have you changed your fuel lines after the jelly incident that might be something to try as well.

I checked my fuel lines and inline filters and they were spotless - I think it was the stabil or methanol or the combination of both that caused the junk in the bowls.

I used my colortune today with the 17.5 pilots and it seems to be idling nicely. I'll have to give it a quick ride when I have some time and see how it runs.

if it was the stabil it would be all thru the filters as well.would it not and thru the tank as well

In my case, I ran the bike for a while after adding the stabil and shutting off the fuel valve. I'm guessing there was about half a bowl full of fuel and no fuel in the fuel lines or filters. According to the stabil guy, it's the metal from the carbs reacting with the fuel / methanol / stabil that causes the gunk. The only place in the whole system that has the contaminant is the float bowls, so I think it formed from sitting and reacting with the carbs. Just a theory...

OK, I've got well over $10K into this rebuild and I'm about ready to part it out!! Well, not quite, but I'm getting close.

I finally had a chance to ride the bike with the 17.5 pilots, the needles leaned out one clip, and fresh fuel. It seemed to run OK until I was holding steady at around 40 mph. It started to surge and lunge and then died completely.

I was thinking plugged fuel vent so I popped the cap open (didn't hear a suction sound when opening). I then closed the cap and restarted the bike - it ran well until doing the same thing again about a minute later. I came home and took the tank off to check the petcocks and vent. The fuel flows out of both petcocks (dual pingels) on the Reserve and ON positions. I also heard air venting from the cap when I was moving the tank. Vent seems OK?

The weird thing is that I noticed the fuel flows much better with the cap open. Is this normal?

Can the running problem be caused by float level? Can the vent be too small for 34's? I never had this problem with my 33 sb's. These new 34's seem to be a total curse!! I'm at a loss and I'm about ready to trade it for a Harley!! :blink: :laugh:

There should be plenty of venting available through the stock vent, IF it is completly clear. i ran rs34's on my 1327 last year with no issues. Although i have a kz tank. but if u can hear it venting, then there may be a plugage issue there. It is obviously not venting at the same rate as the fuel flow.
Try running it with the cap open .
The other posibility might be the size of the float seat?
I am just jetting my rs34's for the 1200cc motor now.
I am starting with 17.5, 3rd clip, 127.5 mains.feels good so far. 145 miles on it.

Yea, I never thought of the float seat - I'll keep that in mind.

I'd also like to get a fuel level tool. I set the floats mechanically but I'd like to check the actual fuel level. Any idea what size threads are used on the float bowl plugs? It seems I could fit a plug with a hose fitting and check the level if the plug is a standard size.

I guess I'll try to take apart the fuel cap and see what I find with the vent. I should have ridden it for a while with the cap open to test it, but I pulled off the tank before I thought of it...:blush: