rs34's

I just tryed the 135 mains and also tested the needles. the mains are still the same ,chocolate, as are the needles.so i will go down to 127.5's (i dont have any 130's) and drop the needle 1 notch. it still has a stutter at 5000 to 6000 rpm at wot.otherwise it feels strong.

I finally got my new pilot jets and tried them out. I went with the 22.5's since it was so bad with the 17's and it runs great! I don't understand why I need such large pilots but it worked! I still want to dial everything in real closely, but at least it runs like a bike should now. That 180 tire spins sooooooooo easy with the 1260 kit and the headwork.:woohoo: :woohoo:

Also, how do you guys feel about using the same size pilots based on what worked before with totally different carbs? For example: I had 30 pilot jets in my 33 sb's, so is it safe to assume that I might need 30's in the rs 34's?? I'm guessing no, but just wondered what you guys thought about that.

Thats good news about the pilots. What size cam are you running? I'm not sure about maintaining the same jet sizing with different carbs.

79MKII wrote:

Also, how do you guys feel about using the same size pilots based on what worked before with totally different carbs? For example: I had 30 pilot jets in my 33 sb's, so is it safe to assume that I might need 30's in the rs 34's?? I'm guessing no, but just wondered what you guys thought about that.

I think the round slides and flat slides will draw dif cfm's so u realy need to test each 1. 1 carb would only give u a starting point for the other.imo.

I am running the same cams (.424 lift, 260dur.) and bigger pistons(fromm 1135cc to 1327cc.) with more porting and with the RS carbs my jet sizes have all gone down from my vm33's to the rs34's.

OK, it's been a while but I took my bike out for a good 20 mile ride and it's running great. The only problem I have is the noisy carbs. These flatslides are clacking around like crazy! The carbs are brand new and now have a total of 31 miles on them. The engine is tuned perfectly, cams degreed, and it still clacks at idle and while riding. The exhaust is a V&H chrome megaphone with a race baffle, but sill very quite and plenty of back pressure. I don't know if I can take that noise. I'm thinking of going back to 33 smoothbores. Thoughts??

Well, they aren´t called RattleKunis or ClackSlides for no reason:laugh: They will clack on idle then it quiets down when revs go ap. Syching the carbs helps a lot but they will clackB)

If ya go back to 33´s just dump the RS-worthless-POS my way. I´ll take care of disposal;)

mark1122 wrote:

79MKII wrote:

I am running the same cams (.424 lift, 260dur.) and bigger pistons(fromm 1135cc to 1327cc.) with more porting and with the RS carbs my jet sizes have all gone down.

at what lobe centers?? Cause I'm experiencing pinging problems in the mid

"I am running the same cams (.424 lift, 260dur.) and bigger pistons(from 1135cc to 1327cc.) with more porting and with the RS carbs my jet sizes have all gone down."

Jesus Christ, how the hell are you guys able to stay on the friggin bike at this power.... What, you start out at in 4th gear so as not to spin the tire... New KZ tranny, 4th & 5th gear only. :blink:

I mean damn it, I look at your bike images and I don't see any wings. :laugh: :woohoo:

Pure awesome...

OMR

martijn wrote:

mark1122 wrote:

79MKII wrote:

I am running the same cams (.424 lift, 260dur.) and bigger pistons(fromm 1135cc to 1327cc.) with more porting and with the RS carbs my jet sizes have all gone down.

at what lobe centers?? Cause I'm experiencing pinging problems in the mid

Mark, My 1075 also pinged in the midrange until I spent ALOT of time tuning the ignition advance. Full advance came in way too early (around 2200) on my engine. I now have centrifugal advance beginning at 1500rpm and full advance around 4000. This is VERY difficult to achieve with springs and weights. I was able to get there by modifying the stock weights (grinding them down to lighten them) and ordering multiple spring combinations from a company called Lee Spring. Even then, I had to modify the springs I ordered to get things to work properly. An easier (more expensive) way to go is with a Dyna 2000 Ignition. It comes preprogrammed with a curve that should work very well. It also has a built-in rev limiter. That's nice.

Are your RS34s clacking while cruising above 3000rpm?

79MKII, If your carbs are constantly clacking while you are cruising, that's not a good sign and not necessarily related to the carbs. IMO carb clacking has little if anyting to do with jetting or ignition timing. I know it sounds strange but you might want to pull the exhaust baffle out completely and see what happens. If the bike runs just as good (or better) and the clacking subsides, you will want to consider perfoming some exhaust mods. If not, Just throw the baffle back in and start poking around elsewhere.

My carbs clacked and my bike ran so-so until I got everyting tuned just right. Now it pulls like a truck all over the rev range without a clack or ping...but it took a while.

Davel
Very good information. By the clacking I am assuming you mean the pisst sound or sneeze that noise of the air going back through the carbs. Thanks for sharing with us.
The comp baffle in my kz made it run so much better and still kept that mean sound to it. That I noticed in my bike any way. Made it run much faster from the get go I think. One of the best investments I made besides the smooth bores on the bike for running better.

saxjonz wrote:
By the clacking I am assuming you mean the pisst sound or sneeze that noise of the air going back through the carbs.
.[/quote]

The clacking is the noise of the flat slides banging back and forth against the carbs body as the piston changes direction in the cyl. The cyl pressure changes from pos to neg and this actually pushes and pulls on the carbs slides, and causes this clacking noise.
My carbs are fairly quiet at idle up to 3000rpm then they are a little noisy at criuse, about 4000. not bad though.

My baffle size is 2”.

My cam lobe centers are set at 110*, 110*.

79MKII wrote:

OK, it's been a while but I took my bike out for a good 20 mile ride and it's running great. The only problem I have is the noisy carbs. These flatslides are clacking around like crazy! The carbs are brand new and now have a total of 31 miles on them. The engine is tuned perfectly, cams degreed, and it still clacks at idle and while riding. The exhaust is a V&H chrome megaphone with a race baffle, but sill very quite and plenty of back pressure. I don't know if I can take that noise. I'm thinking of going back to 33 smoothbores. Thoughts??

davel wrote:
thought I'd share my RS34 experience.

I've installed a 1075 kit and have experimented with a V&H and Jardine 4-1 exhaust. My experience is that the RS34s are great and will provide excellent throttle response, midrange and top end power IF the rest of engine is set up properly. Here are a few things I've found through experience:
* Exhaust tuning is critical. I've been able to get good results from both a V&H pipe and my Jardine pipe but not with the stock baffle installed. Removing the baffle in the V&H pipe produced good power from 4000RPM to redline. Inserting a competition baffle with a 2.25" ID brought my usable power range to 3000RPM. The competition baffle made a noticable increase in mid-range torque and eliminated reversion above 3K RPM (no more carb clacking). Experimening with and finding the correct exhaust baffle size for your setup will produce better throttle response, more mid range torque and better fuel mileage without hurting top end power.


Hope this is useful.

What is the Diameter of your baffle?