rs34's

How do u adjust the slide height’s on RS34 carbs, in order to bench sinc them?
never mind. i see now. there are cam type bolts on them.

Here's a try at posting the instructions. Remember to click on the picture and it will get much bigger for easier viewing:

That is a great pic . thanks.
where did u find that? is there a link to a web site with other tuning info??

mark1122 wrote:

That is a great pic . thanks.
where did u find that? is there a link to a web site with other tuning info??

No problem. I downloaded a .pdf from Sudco a long time ago. Check out this link, I think it should work:

www.sudco.com/vol33/29-32.pdf

i did some plug tests and the 117.5 pilots at 1/4 turn on the fuel screws is perfect. the mains a a chocolate brown so i will go from 140 mains to 135 or 137's. i still need to check the needles.

mark1122 wrote:

i did some plug tests and the 117.5 pilots at 1/4 turn on the fuel screws is perfect. the mains a a chocolate brown so i will go from 140 mains to 135 or 137's. i still need to check the needles.

That sounds right on the pilot circuit (I think you meant 17.5). Chocolate brown plugs with 140 mains might require 135 or 130s.

Ive been talking to Larry C,and he says the 34's respond well to being a bit rich on the pilots and lean on the needels . I'm pretty close. i will reduce the mains and the needles and see how she flys.i havent aadded the pump yet either. i already have to hang on tight.lol.

Man, still waiting on my pilot jets from bike bandit(ordered 8 days ago and still haven't shipped)

I'd rather order someplace else but I needed some OEM stuff and had 10% off too. Still, it's killing me to wait. I want to put in the bigger pilots and see if it helps. I did start and idle it again, and it won't run unless the choke is on. Sure sounds lean to me, I hope I'm right.

That is odd that u need such big pilots. the 17.5's are perfect for my1327cc's. did u check the float levels and bench sync the slides? did u remove the accelerator pumps piston? If u remove the piston and spring for now u cant be fooled by the extra fuel it provides. After u get them dialed in u can replace it to work on throttle response.

mark1122 wrote:

That is odd that u need such big pilots. the 17.5's are perfect for my1327cc's. did u check the float levels and bench sync the slides? did u remove the accelerator pumps piston? If u remove the piston and spring for now u cant be fooled by the extra fuel it provides. After u get them dialed in u can replace it to work on throttle response.

I did check the float levels but haven't messed with the synchronizing, not even mechanical. It probably wouldn't hurt to measure the slide height and make sure they are all close. Then I'll do the vacuum synch after it will run.

Do you mean the piston and spring in the float bowl? I haven't taken that out.

That is weird that the 17.5 pilot seems to be lean. Although, I did have a 30 pilot in my smoothbores and they ran perfectly for many years. I just want to put a bigger set in and see how it runs. As it is now, it won't idle or accept throttle unless the choke is on. With the choke on, I can turn down the idle and it runs pretty smoothly.

yes , the piston and spring in #2 float bowl.

mark1122 wrote:

That is odd that u need such big pilots. the 17.5's are perfect for my1327cc's.

I agree. The 17.5 pilots are fine for my 1075 as well. The jetting on these carbs should be very close out of the box. Verify the float level and slide heights. If they're good and the jets and idle passages are all clean, I'd start looking somewhere else...vacuum leaks between the rubber manifold and head, ignition timing, verify your comrpession. Not sure if this is a fresh rebuild, but if so, cam timing and valve adjustment should be verified.

If an intake valve is out of adjustment and remaining partially open it will reak havoc on your carburation.

Mark1122 did you try downsizing your 140 mains? If so, what were the results?