TOPIC:

autotech2@tx.rr.com wrote:

If none are bent,, clean the valves and seats free of oil. Take a black magic marker and mark the valve face about 5 or 6 spots equally spaced on the 45. Put the valve down in the guide and spin it with a lapping stick. Pull it back out and inspect the marker and the seat. You'll see where the contact points are.

Do as LarryC suggested and show us pics of the seats.

My manual shows applying machinist dye to the valve seat, then inserting the valve and tapping it against the seat (not spinning). Then look for an even pattern all the way around the valve.

Think it accomplishes the same thing. Just dye on the valve, read the seat, or dye on the seat, read the valve.

To check the valve stem 100% for being straight, you need a V-block and a dial indicator.

Yes...next will be the V block and dial indicator.

Here's some pics of the seats as Larry suggested.

I did the runout with the V blocks and every valve was good to go.

I was doing the black marker on the valve and seat and noticed this. In the first set of pics is from #4 to #1. The 2econd set of pics is from #1 to #4.

Can you tell me if anything is wrong with the grind of the seats? If you will notice that on #4 intake Valve the grind is riding very high almost to the top of the valve face. This pics are in the post before this one.

Can't really tell which are the number #4 valves. As far as I can see the contact is pretty uniform on the valves. They should be slightly off of the margin, and equal width.

Try marking the seat all the way around with the sharpie, Then spin the valve in the seat and remove. The ink should get worn off all the way around the seat by the valve. If there are spots untouched, and the valve is straight, the seat needs to be re-cut.

autotech2@tx.rr.com wrote: Can't really tell which are the number #4 valves. As far as I can see the contact is pretty uniform on the valves. They should be slightly off of the margin, and equal width.

Try marking the seat all the way around with the sharpie, Then spin the valve in the seat and remove. The ink should get worn off all the way around the seat by the valve. If there are spots untouched, and the valve is straight, the seat needs to be re-cut.

In the first and last pic, can you see that the seat is almost on the surface of the bottom of the head? Notice the spacing at the top of the #4 seat is non existing where the others have a space before the bottom of the head surface? Can you see that the seat doesn't look like the others. notice how the seat is almost ground straigh up and down?

Looks like some of the seats have been cut quite a bit off centre .
Put some marker on the seats and rotate the valves on them.
I bet the marker only gets rubbed in one spot.

zed1015 wrote: Looks like some of the seats have been cut quite a bit off centre .
Put some marker on the seats and rotate the valves on them.
I bet the marker only gets rubbed in one spot.

Thanks for noticing. I've done the black marker and your right, only a few spots rub off. The cut on #4 intake is almost up and down. You can see the lapping mark in the combustion chamber is almost off the cut. The #4 intake valve lapping mark is so close to the edge of the valve it's going to be on the side before I get it lapped in. Way to go PSP!!!!!!!!!! for doing such a good job taking my money and returning a slab of aluminum. The seat is cut so large I don't think I can do anything about it.

That was the deal with mine. Seats not cut concentric with the valves.

autotech2@tx.rr.com wrote: IThat was the deal with mine. Seats not cut concentric with the valves.

PSP must of chucked a beveled grinding wheel in a drill and held it 90deg to the head.

Maybe they have a bent guide arbor and didn't realize? Would explain multiple miscut seats.

KZ Rat wrote: Maybe they have a bent guide arbor and didn't realize? Would explain multiple miscut seats.

There is no denying the valve job/reworked head I recieved was done wrong. The head, that was sent to PSP was untouched, before I sent it to PSP for the slaughter. The head is pretty much trash, It's past fixing.

Any suggestions?

Thanks again PSP, easy money.

Maybe Larry has a solution? Ed

Am I defending Joe here? Yep... because I'm in the same business and I know what happens. I did not read anything about a phone call or email to Joe informing him of the situation and discussing it with him. THAT is truly the first thing that should have been done....
Larry C.


Yeah Larry C.

I'm glad your defending JOE, don't take it personally, but does that mean that you practice the same work habbits as JOE?

I hear JOE is out of the picture due to some health problems. So is there anyone that will warranty his work, or, are we all just stuck with some of JOE's shoddy work?

Pictures don't lie, see for yourself.

I don't recall any clicking sound being stated in my post.

When another company employes do shoddy work they still have to stand behide thier work 100%. I don't think this is the case here.

Yes.......I have the right to vent, PSP took $400 of my money with nothing in return.