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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Oct 2014 18:00 #649457

  • KawC2
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autotech2@tx.rr.com wrote:

KawC2 wrote: Well looks like lightning does strike twice in the same spot.

I have my bike in the project section. I am getting close to firing it up but thought I might do some pre start-up checking. First I had the head done at Pit Stop Performance with the works that he offers for $395.00 I think it's been a year. I did a compression test and had no compression AT ALL. So I break out the leak down kit and give it a shot and I was at a 100 % leaking. I pulled the head and jugs I thought maybe the rings were stuck from setting so long. I found all the rings were free and non binding anywhere. So I turned the head up side down and poured in some mineral spirits into all the combustion chamber and the MS poured out as fast as i poured it in on # 4 and #3, #1 was holding but #2 leaked all out within 5 mins. and I know that I'm new here but, bad work is bad work even if you are new to the forum. I'm adding a few pics of the first 5 mins of pouring in the MS. You cant tell very good but some chambers are only half full and leaking as i took the pix. I do have a receipt and will share. So let me add that I too have been struck by lightning.


Hey KawC2,

The fluid leaking straight past the valves is definitely NG. But 0 psi compression and 100% leakdown on all cylinders doesn't seem possible. If #1 was holding fluid it wouldn't be anywhere near 100% leakdown past the valves. Where did you hear the air coming out? Intake, exhaust, or crankcase?

Are you absolutely sure you were dead-on with cam timing and valve clearance?


Some was intake and most was exhaust. Yes, dead nuts on. Within 5 mins there was no MS in any of the chambers. Valve clearance was done by PSP. I could see where the valves were numbered so they were taken out, maybe.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Oct 2014 18:02 #649458

  • autotech2@tx.rr.com
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You sent the head with the cams?
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Oct 2014 18:09 #649459

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Yes, they also painted the head for me.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Oct 2014 18:11 #649460

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Stock or adjustable cam sprockets? And did it come back with the cams installed?
Last edit: by autotech2@tx.rr.com.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Oct 2014 19:22 #649468

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I know in jumping into this $hitstorm of a thread but I am the one who sent off/received/paid for the cylinder head in question relating to Kawc2 post, but here I go.
I sent my complete cylinderhead, with nonadustable cams ,to Joe from pitstop performance based upon personal research and kzrider.com sponsered advertised banners. The head was returned in a timely manner complete with the supplied factory camshafts installed in the newly reworked/painted cylinder head. Aesthetically the head looked the part until time to perform.
After an initial lackluster compression test; with dead nuts on timing, I removed the schrader valve from my compression tester and introduced 120 p.s.i to the cylinders ,With the cams removed, and heard a very audible leak from each and every cylinder. Mostly from the exhaust valves but an intake or two just to switch things up. Needless to say it was a major setback ,to say the least, in the progress of my bike.
All in all I could have used the 400+ dollars I donated to Joe at pitstop performance and designed an apparatus to kick me in the nuts and beat my head against the wall simultaneously, the end result would have been the same.
Last edit: by doped304.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Oct 2014 19:43 #649470

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OK. So it wasn't really 0psi or 100% leakdown, but obviously leaking valves. You have the choice of returning the head, or finding a quality machinist to re-do the valve job. If you chose plan B, I suggest checking warpage, and be sure all the camshaft oil galleys are clear of debris.

If it's any consolation, the pre start-up check may have saved you a lot of aggravation down the line.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Oct 2014 19:55 #649471

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Correct autotech a whopping 120 p.s.I on 3 cylinders and a spellbinding 30 on one cylinder. And yes pretty sure I will be opting for plan b at this point.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Oct 2014 20:03 #649473

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If you don't know of one, you might try calling a local Kawasaki dealer and ask what machine shop they use.

Good luck!
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 03 Oct 2014 01:41 #649499

  • LarryC
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doped304 wrote: , I removed the schrader valve from my compression tester and introduced 120 p.s.i to the cylinders ,With the cams removed, and heard a very audible leak from each and every cylinder. Mostly from the exhaust valves but an intake or two just to switch things up. .


That leads to a couple of logical questions. The click sound was caused by something moving and coming into contact with something else.... What's the source of the problem there?

a] stuck vales....binding in the guide for some reason
b] slightly bent valves....how did they get that way?

What I have seen guys do numerous times is incorrectly install the cams and turn the engine over. That leads to bent valves...that leads to the leakage...

In the past, they used stones to cut the seats at PP. Stones will cut a nice straight seat. The likeliness of 8 valves having non concentric seats are pretty slim to say the least....

Are there other things that could cause a problem? Yes there are. One being that the valve job needs a top cut because the 45 cut is now larger than the valve...

Pull the valves out, put them in a drill an spin them... If they're bent, you'll see it in a heartbeat.

If none are bent,, clean the valves and seats free of oil. Take a black magic marker and mark the valve face about 5 or 6 spots equally spaced on the 45. Put the valve down in the guide and spin it with a lapping stick. Pull it back out and inspect the marker and the seat. You'll see where the contact points are.

If you're running the PSP3x cams, you have far less room for incorrect cam timing that with the stock cams. They have a ton of duration, especially overlap duration. You'll bend valves real quick if the timing is off...

Am I defending Joe here? Yep... because I'm in the same business and I know what happens. I did not read anything about a phone call or email to Joe informing him of the situation and discussing it with him. THAT is truly the first thing that should have been done....
Larry C.
Last edit: by LarryC.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 04 Oct 2014 19:29 #649710

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LarryC wrote:

doped304 wrote: , I removed the schrader valve from my compression tester and introduced 120 p.s.i to the cylinders ,With the cams removed, and heard a very audible leak from each and every cylinder. Mostly from the exhaust valves but an intake or two just to switch things up. .


That leads to a couple of logical questions. The click sound was caused by something moving and coming into contact with something else.... What's the source of the problem there?

a] stuck vales....binding in the guide for some reason
b] slightly bent valves....how did they get that way?

What I have seen guys do numerous times is incorrectly install the cams and turn the engine over. That leads to bent valves...that leads to the leakage...

In the past, they used stones to cut the seats at PP. Stones will cut a nice straight seat. The likeliness of 8 valves having non concentric seats are pretty slim to say the least....

Are there other things that could cause a problem? Yes there are. One being that the valve job needs a top cut because the 45 cut is now larger than the valve...

Pull the valves out, put them in a drill an spin them... If they're bent, you'll see it in a heartbeat.

If none are bent,, clean the valves and seats free of oil. Take a black magic marker and mark the valve face about 5 or 6 spots equally spaced on the 45. Put the valve down in the guide and spin it with a lapping stick. Pull it back out and inspect the marker and the seat. You'll see where the contact points are.

If you're running the PSP3x cams, you have far less room for incorrect cam timing that with the stock cams. They have a ton of duration, especially overlap duration. You'll bend valves real quick if the timing is off...

Am I defending Joe here? Yep... because I'm in the same business and I know what happens. I did not read anything about a phone call or email to Joe informing him of the situation and discussing it with him. THAT is truly the first thing that should have been done....


Hey Larry,

Not quite sure where you got "click" from. All I read was "very audible leak". But I know where you're coming from if a noise was heard while cranking.

You're the expert, and by all means doped304 should perform the procedure you recommended to determine the cause of the problem.

At first hearing no compression and 100% leakdown, I thought the same thing -- either inaccurate testing, or bent valves due to incorrect cam installation or timing. But the fact the leaks were heard with the cams removed, eliminated a testing problem.

In my years in automotive I've seen a lot of bent valves, ether by incorrect chain install, or a belt jumping time. In all instances, I can remember, something always held true. There were visible marks (nicks) on every valve (intake or exhaust) and piston, and the damage held true across the board. Meaning there was a nick on every intake (and/or exhaust valve), and every piston. Doesn't have to be a big gouge, sometimes just a little nick. And the damage I've seen has always been universal. Every valve made piston contact, and leakage was pretty much the same at each cylinder.

So the things that caught my attention were no visible contact marks on any valves in the pictures (doped304, carefully examine the top of the pistons also), and the fact that cyl. #1 valves held fluid consistently, others not at all, and another marginally.

My engine had about a 25% leak past two intake valves.

Got a good story on a V6 engine, The alternator belt broke, drive belt came off, battery light came on and customer kept driving, The drive belt got caught behind the crank pulley, bore a hole though the plastic timing belt cover, derailed the T-belt, jumped time, bent all the valves. Needed an engine after that.
Last edit: by autotech2@tx.rr.com.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 10 Oct 2014 14:51 #650282

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Got the valves removed, chucked them in a drill all were fine. I'm still going to check a bit better. I took some pix of the intake and exhaust valves to try and show the grind.


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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 11 Oct 2014 07:33 #650330

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If none are bent,, clean the valves and seats free of oil. Take a black magic marker and mark the valve face about 5 or 6 spots equally spaced on the 45. Put the valve down in the guide and spin it with a lapping stick. Pull it back out and inspect the marker and the seat. You'll see where the contact points are.


Do as LarryC suggested and show us pics of the seats.

My manual shows applying machinist dye to the valve seat, then inserting the valve and tapping it against the seat (not spinning). Then look for an even pattern all the way around the valve.

Think it accomplishes the same thing. Just dye on the valve, read the seat, or dye on the seat, read the valve.

To check the valve stem 100% for being straight, you need a V-block and a dial indicator.
Last edit: by autotech2@tx.rr.com.
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