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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Nov 2014 17:02 #652661

  • SWest
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Well, I'm back home. I will be taking off the head of my Z1 in a couple days. Have a small list to pick up at OR tomorrow. I have just about everything I can think of. It was a freash build but I couldn't get to the valve train. Been buying parts piece by piece since the build, now I'm ready. I'm putting this thread here because I want to show what a 40 year old head looks like when new valves are inatalled as to dispell the nay sayers talking about nothing being wrong with sunkin valves. I've been working on bikes and cars/trucks for over 40+ years. Some times you have to show them. They get it or they don't or won't. This is my daily driver so I will fuel up my 69 Ford F250 for back up and get to it. Hang in there man, we're not all against you.
Steve
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Nov 2014 17:03 #652663

  • LarryC
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Here's one of my valve jobs.... I think I know what I'm talking about here...

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Larry C.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Nov 2014 17:20 #652666

  • peter1958
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hey that's my head
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Nov 2014 17:40 #652669

  • autotech2@tx.rr.com
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Larry,

I understand you defending someone in the same business, and I commend you for it. But the facts in this situation are the valve job was done wrong (as with mine), KawC2 sent it back, and it was done wrong (sunken valves, that we know of) again. If it needed new valves due to over-cutting, PSP should have replaced them at no additional charge, and sent the head back 100% This is basic good business practice.

KawC2 was fortunate he's only dealing with a cylinder head. My ordeal was with a complete engine build. The part I don't understand is that I showed PSP each failure, one-by-one, in detail. But they continue doing the same work. I even stated that I hope you're learning from these failures. But I guess it had no effect.

There is nothing personal. But I don't want other classic-bike guys dealing with this. I take pride in my work, and stuff like this is unacceptable in my business, and it should be that way across the board.

As I told PSP after the first few leaks, I fully understand that shit does happens in automotive, but this is past that, and it makes us all look bad.

And Larry, my PSP head didn't look anything like yours.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Nov 2014 17:42 #652670

  • 4TheKZ1000
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Larry did this one, un-freggin-real craftsmanship.

38.5 / 31 with port work.

Thanks again, Larry

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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Nov 2014 17:48 #652671

  • autotech2@tx.rr.com
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I see that, and I wish I used Larry. He seems to be a quality-oriented professional.

In my commission-based business, it costs me money doing the right thing. But I do it anyway, while many don't. Helps me sleep at night.
Last edit: by autotech2@tx.rr.com.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Nov 2014 18:34 #652677

  • ramtough_63
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weighing too late deleted what I was gonna say
1978 KZ1000 A2
Thrown Together To Ride Til Winter
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1982/83 750R/GPZ
1984 Goldwing 1200 Interstate
1982 Yamahopper QT50
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2 79 HD sporty XLH
02 HD FLSTS Heritage
60's HD Hummer
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and various enduros dirtbikes minibikes...
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Nov 2014 19:13 #652687

  • autotech2@tx.rr.com
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ramtough_63,

I had an '84 GPZ750 with an '83 frame, after a wreck. Loved the early sport-bike. Whatever happened to anti-dive?
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Nov 2014 19:47 #652690

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Now that's beautiful. Mine won't look as good as that but it'll work anyway.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Nov 2014 19:53 #652691

  • NakedFun
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autotech2@tx.rr.com wrote: ramtough_63,

I had an '84 GPZ750 with an '83 frame, after a wreck. Loved the early sport-bike. Whatever happened to anti-dive?


It went away with better fork valving technology....

Cory
2008 Kawasaki Concours 14
1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
1976 Kawasaki KZ900
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Nov 2014 19:54 #652692

  • autotech2@tx.rr.com
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True, may look great, but the seat off a degree or not concentric, and be junk.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 02 Nov 2014 20:46 #652698

  • KawC2
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LarryC wrote:

KawC2 wrote:

LarryC wrote:

autotech2@tx.rr.com wrote:

The IMPORTANT thing is that the work was stood behind....just as I thought it would be. So if you're happy now how about having the negative threads removed by the mods...


Happy? Are we reading the same thread?


Well ..I don't know :) What I would say is that if Joe drove to his door and hand delivered a new head with new valves and a freshly baked cake to sweeten the deal..... somebody would bitch about the frosting :woohoo:

That head doesn't need new seats....not by a long, long, long shot... I'm sorry I even mentioned new valves to be perfectly honest.....


Well, I don't know I like frosting on my cake. What I DON'T like, is being taken advantage of by doing the minimal amout of work and destroying a perfectly good head.

It's not like the only reason we talked about the problem is because you said something about it. IT'S BECAUSE IT IS ObVIOUS.


I only meant my comment about the valves being sunk so much. They'll work that way it's just not ideal for best flow.

You need to man up and quit whining..... SHIT HAPPENS... It not the shit happening that defines the man...it's how he handles it... ;)

Joe tried to make it right...you're still not happy. Joe was probably trying to save you money by refacing your old valves and he got bit in the ass for his efforts......That's neither here nor there anymore.

I live by this theory... You can't make chicken soup from chicken shit. Throw way the junk you're pissing around with and put new valves in it. Order yourself 4 new exhaust valves. Your choice to go cheap or buy good...
Lap them in and check the installed heights. You want 1.475" - 1.480" installed with no spring cup.

If you don't have the means to check that, then you can just use your cam and a bucket with a 250 shim installed. You don't need keepers, retainer or spring installed to do it.

Stand the head on the intake ports. Drop a bucket in. Put the valve in and push the bucket up all the way. Set your cam in and check lash with a feeler. If you get correct lash with a shim no thinner than 240, call it good. If it takes less than that, the valves will need to be tipped. You can figure out how much with a little basic math. The difference between the thinnest shim you need to get .004" lash and a #250 shim is the amount you tip the valve..

That's the back yard, no tools having method of doing it but it will work.... There you go...it's your circus,, make the animals dance the way that makes you happy... :) I wish you good luck.


(You need to man up and quit whining..... SHIT HAPPENS... It not the shit happening that defines the man...it's how he handles it... ;))

OH Larry some of your sayings crack me up. I think you have it wrong Larry, It's JOE that needs to MAN up and do the right thing and fix the mess he made.

(Joe tried to make it right...you're still not happy. Joe was probably trying to save you money by refacing your old valves and he got bit in the ass for his efforts......That's neither here nor there anymore.)

How do you figure JOE tried to make it right and save me money? You are right about one thing, he got bit all right, and that's because he tried to get away with some shoddy work and got bit in the ass.

But I still like your sayings something about shit happens making chicken shit from soup on a barn and it rolls off bla bla bla yeah yeah.

I realy wish you got what you pay for now-a-days. Looks like your the only one wining bo hoo bo hoo!!!!! I'm doing nothing but stating FACTS with Pictures to back it up.

Are you JOE's spoke person? Well your not representing him very well. Looks like you do some good work why don't you do JOE's warranty work?? HA HA HA HA
Last edit: by KawC2.
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