Rear wheel tightening?

Tightening the Axle, should only apply pressure to the spacers and Inner Bearing races. There are no Tapered bearings that could be lose or tight by Torque values.
Look at the diagram and find which spacer you have either miss-installed or forgotten.

mvent wrote:

Patton wrote: Were wheel bearings replaced before reassembly?

Yes new bearings, spokes and rims, original hubs, break arm in place but not torqued, could it be the bearings? there was a sleeve if I remember correctly that set location.
Thanks

Could be mistaken, but thinking an improperly seated or damaged wheel bearing might bind against the axle when tightened.

Good Fortune!

Yeah theres a sleeve in the center of the wheel and if the bearings aren't seated well against this it could cause some binding when you tighten.

If the new bearing is placed in the freezer overnight (or at least a few hours) or chilled with dry ice immediately before installation, it may more easily drop into position.

May combine this technique with also heating the wheel area where the "frozen" bearing is being inserted.

Good Fortune!

T_Dub wrote: Manuals are not all perfect by any means but a for a bolt of that diameter, 100ft-lbs is sweet fuck all. If you can't tighten it without your wheel binding then you have some other issue you better sort out.

Absolutely. The spacers and the torque on the axle nut do not apply any forces that should affect the bearings' ability to spin because when things are in place and properly aligned no lateral forces are applied to the bearings. As someone else mentioned, this is not a tapered roller bearing like on some cars that is preloaded based on how much torque is applied to the axle nut. Tightening the axle nut on the KZ is intended to keep the axle in place in the swingarm slot; not tighten the bearings. If the axle nut is too loose the axle could slip forward or backward during heavy acceleration or braking. The KZ650 torque value for the axle nut is 72-101 ft lbs. That's pretty tight (about the same as a car lug nut). Leaving the nut lose because the wheel binds is simply compensating for the symptom of a problem you haven't yet identified. No slam intended, but the truth is that any mechanic who suggests that as a permanent solution is simply too lazy to diagnose the source of the problem or he doesn't understand the relationship between the rear wheel bearings, spacers, axle nut, and swingarm. It doesn't matter to me on a personal level if you leave all the nuts on your bike lose because your mechanic is convinced he knows more than the folks who designed the bike, but I suggest you at least consider the fact that every bike that left the factory had the rear axle nut tightened to the spec and on every one of them the rear wheel turned freely. Coincidence? I don't think so. Ed

yeah spec between 72-101 lbs,theres a reason they give you 2 numbers with a big space in between the 2. :laugh:
anybody who doesnt think you can over tighten that axle and nut enough to make that swingarm pinch in against those spacers and bind them up against the bearings should pull the rear wheel off of a kz1000 and look at how it actually goes together rather than just looking at a cartoon picture out of a shop manual somebody posts,or better yet just go out and crank the the nut on their rear axle to 150'lbs and see how it works.

Cartoons, haha. I think the reason for the gap in the values is that they also want you to install the cotter pin, so if you need to back it off/tighten a bit to do that then the torque will be still within the range. I personally tighten mine with a long box end 1-1/8" wrench, tighten it hard, then line up the pin. This sometimes means its a tad looser than my initial tightening, sometimes a tad tighter.

Motor Head wrote: Tightening the Axle, should only apply pressure to the spacers and Inner Bearing races. There are no Tapered bearings that could be lose or tight by Torque values.
Look at the diagram and find which spacer you have either miss-installed or forgotten.

squeeze that swingarm tight enough and see how that wheel turns! :woohoo:

29'lbs is a long tad! :laugh:
its no biggie,could be more than one cause for the problem is all :laugh:

wireman wrote: yeah spec between 72-101 lbs,theres a reason they give you 2 numbers with a big space in between the 2. :laugh:
anybody who doesnt think you can over tighten that axle and nut enough to make that swingarm pinch in against those spacers and bind them up against the bearings should pull the rear wheel off of a kz1000 and look at how it actually goes together rather than just looking at a cartoon picture out of a shop manual somebody posts,or better yet just go out and crank the the nut on their rear axle to 150'lbs and see how it works.

You are right that there is a reason, and here it is: The 72 - 101 range is there so you can align the slots is the castle nut to the hole in the axle so you can fit the cotter pin. If the range was small the odds of ever getting the castle nut slots to align with the hole would be slim to none because the slots are 60 degrees apart. I don't own a KZ1000, so I cannot says I have ever pulled the rear wheel on one - maybe it has tapered rolled bearings like my 1973 Ford F100 had on the front. If so, you are correct, the nut tightens the bearings. However, I can tell you that on my KZ650 the nut does not tighten the bearings. I torque mine to spec using a modified wrench and have done this at least 30 - 40 times in the 34 years I have owned the bike. I can assure you that at least on the KZ650 the rear wheel will not bind at the factory spec unless there is some other problem causing it to bind. Ed

If you were to say assemble the axle with all the spacers, brake, bearings, etc, but without the wheel/ hub. Then tighten it inside the Swingarm, the spacers etc will act like one solid piece, no crush sleeve here. The outer bearing races should spin freely no matter the torque on the Axle nut.
The right hand #17 bearing is held to a depth with a snap-ring, against a shoulder in the hub, but the left #17 bearing is allowed to fit tight against the spacer with a slight movement of the complete bearing. Once against the spacer the lateral movement is then on the right #17 and its fit/ snap-ring. the outer bearing races should have No lateral Torque, all torque should be on the spacers/ inner bearing races.

motor head is right.

if you can't tighten your axle bolt until right before the threads strip off and it still turn freely.
then something is wrong in cartoonville.


dadeet dadeet,thats all folks .

leon