Wiring diagram with munit - REVIEW

Yes, the starter turns, but the engine is not turning. There's a "metal noise"—similar to what you hear in cars when the starter isn’t engaging properly with the flywheel.

I’ve heard the same sound a few years ago when the battery was bad. I guess the starter wasn’t spinning fast enough or something like that.
So we are sure that not a bad starter can cause thee issue also... ? The sound was the same... until I replace the battery I remember some years ago.
When I charged the battery up I got typical one chanse to start the engine.. and If I needed a second try than the sound came because the battery voltage was to low...

So, what you're saying is that as long as the starter is turning, the main issue is not with the starter itself, but with the starter clutch?Is it possible that I damaged the starter clutch by pressing the start button quickly—maybe 10–20 times over a few weeks—without letting the starter actually spin the engine properly?The sequence has been:

1. Press start button
2. Release when the light comes on

There wasn’t enough time for the engine to start turning—the starter motor was barely moving.So now, does the engine have to be split in two? Strange that starter clutch sudenly stop workin... expect it to be unstable for a while.... before complete brake down..


 

Operating the "start" button to activate your Mo-Unit shouldn't cause any harm (the starter clutch may just of been "on it's last legs") I would start by removing the starter and inspect the gear on it, then poke your finger in the hole and operate the starter clutch by hand (should only rotate one way) and see what it feels like

Took starter out and clean it, I also tried to turn the starter clutch wheel, it just want to turn one way, tried to put som pressure on it, but are only turning one way, guess that is a goid sign, but still problem to engage the clutch looks like…

Tried to push maybe 20 times sudenly the engine started. Stopped and same issue again when tried to start again… so was just lucky seems like.

see video:
streamable.com/8wpyij

Try it again with the spark plugs removed (less load on the starter and clutch)

When I took the plug out it turned the engine 9 off 10 times…

I took the plug in and tried to start and I can see the oil pressure liggt blinking and some times disapear when I have the bad sound…

Maybe after 10-15 times the engine started…
I let it run warm. When I try to restart after warm it start much easier… maybe 3-4 attemps…

To be honest it sounds like the starter clutch has failed, looking at the manual you can do this without splitting the cases but it looks quite a job and you will need a "bearing puller"
PS: when it was turning the engine with the plugs out was the noise there ?

No strange sound that I notice just nice rotation sound.

I need to consider what I do… I was ready to start the season now… summer have started in Norway now

maybe only drive small 1-3 hours trips and only park in second gear with hills where I can have a rolling start

so I think it has to be a winter project…

But the job must be smaller to not split the crankcase?

 

Yes it's much smaller than splitting the cases, read the section in the manual. You can remove the oil pan and side casing then extract the transmission shaft and drop the starter clutch out of the bottom. If you don't have a suitable "bearing puller" you will need to buy one. The only thing I would say is if the clutch is breaking up there could be debris in there, it's probably a weekends work at most if you have the required gaskets etc ready !!

Ahh, so it can be a risk running like its now without fixing it?

gordone wrote:

Ahh, so it can be a risk running like its now without fixing it?

Potentially yes 

I have created a new thread for the starter clutch repair to not mixing topic more... 

z750L: Repair starter clutch - KZRider Forum - KZRider, KZ, Z1 & Z Motorcycle Enthusiast's Forum