Wiring diagram with munit - REVIEW

gordone wrote:

I have another challenge as well — the high beam indicator on the speedo. I’ve connected it to the high beam output that goes to the front light. The problem is that it’s always on as long as the light is on. I measured the resistance on the bulb itself, and it’s close to 0 between the low and high beam positive terminals. Any ideas?

Maybe I connected wrong terminal to the ground…. Need to check

I assume this is an incandescent bulb ? the reason you are getting continuity between the two inputs is they share a common ground - the way a bulb works is that initially it is close to a short circuit, the current flow then causes a heat build up in the filament which generates resistance and makes it glow (this is why bulbs often blow when you first turn them on during the "short circuit phase") when voltage is applied to one of the inputs the path of least resistance is ground so the other filament doesn't illuminate, are you sure it's wired correctly to the Mo-Unit (low beam is fed constantly with the ignition, the high/low switch function working correctly through the Mo-Unit?)

Thnx
The wiring from m-unit is correct, but it looks like I have connected ground to the bulb wrong.
Can that be the problem?

low light is always on and when I switch high beam on the light turn on stronger…

Maybe I can configure the high beam to shutoff low beam….?

I would expect the low beam to switch off when high beam is activated, this is the norm

I disconnected the bulb today and took some measurements: 

1. With the high beam not activated:
   – 12V between the low beam wire and ground
   – 0V between the high beam wire and ground
2. With the high beam activated:
   – 12V between the high beam wire and ground
   – 0V between the low beam wire and ground

  Interestingly, there is always 12V between the low beam and high beam wires, but the polarity changes depending on whether the high beam is activated or not. Could this behavior help explain why the high beam indicator on the speedometer isn’t working correctly? (The speedometer input has high resistance.)

gordone wrote:

I disconnected the bulb today and took some measurements: 

1. With the high beam not activated:
   – 12V between the high beam wire and ground
   – 0V between the low beam wire and ground
2. With the high beam activated:
   – 12V between the high beam wire and ground
   – 0V between the low beam wire and ground

  Interestingly, there is always 12V between the low beam and high beam wires, but the polarity changes depending on whether the high beam is activated or not This makes little sense since both "high " and "low" are fed from the Mo-Unit - if the high/low switch is wired correctly this would point to a configuration issue (if I get chance I will look at the moto gadget manual tomorrow) . Could this behavior help explain why the high beam indicator on the speedometer isn’t working correctly? Potentially as the indicator is a LED so polarity sensitive (The speedometer input has high resistance.) That is normal given you are measuring an LED

I wrote wrong on point 1, text is corrected.

When I have the light connected it works with low and high beam easy to see the difference in intencity, but are not sure if both high and low is on the same time for high beam.

Wookie58 wrote:

Will check these out ! Thnx !

I noticed earlier that I had swapped the ground wire with the high or low beam wire to the bulb. I made some temporary cables to connect it correctly, but the problem with the high beam indicator was still present.However, yesterday I disconnected all three wires and reconnected them properly... and then — it worked! Both low and high beams, including the indicator on the speedometer, were functioning correctly.

Thank you all for taking the time to help me! And sorry for being slow to reply — I have a small child, so I try to squeeze in some time for motorcycle work whenever I can. 😊

I`m wrapping everything up now so I can do a test drive to see how things is working.

The only thing I have left from what I know is the RPM... so need to look more into that in the next weeks, but it will be nice to be able to drive again now...

 

Glad you got it resolved, and that you have your priorities right

A typical new problem…The starter motor engages and turns, but the not «kick in» dosen’t go into gear and makes a bad sound. This issue has only happened before when the battery was weak.I’ve tried using different batteries and confirmed that the ground connection is good.I also configured the headlight to stay off to reduce power drain.While troubleshooting the low and high beams, I’ve sometimes activated the starter motor without actually starting the engine—just pressing the start button to activate the light function (M-Unit behavior).Could I have damaged the starter motor by doing this?

gordone wrote:

A typical new problem…The starter motor engages and turns, but the not «kick in» dosen’t go into gear and makes a bad sound. This issue has only happened before when the battery was weak.I’ve tried using different batteries and confirmed that the ground connection is good.I also configured the headlight to stay off to reduce power drain.While troubleshooting the low and high beams, I’ve sometimes activated the starter motor without actually starting the engine—just pressing the start button to activate the light function (M-Unit behavior).Could I have damaged the starter motor by doing this? No

Not sure what you mean with this ? are you saying the starter spins but doesn't turn the engine over ? bike starters are permanently engaged (different to cars) so if the starter turns without turning the engine that would point towards a starter clutch problem