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Best Place To Have Stator Rewound?
- loudhvx
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- KZr Legend
I said the 3-phase should have less open-load voltage than 1-phase, and it does.
I said my stator was putting out less than what the manual calls for, and actual measurment shows it is putting out less.
Seperately, Motor Head and I investigated the output for 1-phase and 3-phase and it was apparent that the manual was wrong. It had the numbers flipped.
But even correcting for the flipped values, his 1-phase stator was still below what the manual calls for so even after correcting the manual for swapped values, the 75VAC number is still marginal. 73VAC can still be fine as his bike charges with that, and he went through the pain in the ass of actually doing a load test to find out the stator is putting out actual good power, not just open-load voltage.
I also said (weeks ago) if your 3-phase stator has 60-something volts, then it should be fine. Are you now saying it's not fine?
The point has always been that the open-load test only tells you something if the numbers are "much" lower than the spec. If the numbers are close, then test is not telling you enough information to come to a solid conclusion. It's one of many tests that falls into the 1-way category where it may verify a bad part, but can't confirm a part is in fact good.
And the whole point of that was to get you to move on to a better, more-telling test. Originally you were headed that way, and you actually had a good idea of using an ammeter and/or permanently mounted voltmeter. I don't know why you changed your mind on that just based on missing two little volts on an open-load test. The open-load test doesn't warrant grinding everything to a halt.
But at this point, you should be ready to hook up a 3-phase reg/rec and do some loaded tests, correct?
If the voltage on the battery is low, then you just need to identify where you are using the extra current on the bike. That is not real hard, but will take time since there could be several culprits.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- Motor Head
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- FIX UP YOUR BIKE RIGHT AND CHEAP
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plummen wheres your pic of the eager kid?:laugh:
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- seanof30306
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What corner?
Blah, blah blah, excuse
Blah blah blah distort
Blah, blah, blah, deny
Blah, blah, blah, whine
Boy, you never quit, do you?
You insisted your bike's stator output, which was significantly lower than what Clymer called for, was sufficient, therefore proving your multiple assertions that my bike's charging at 68 VAC with a single-phase charging was sufficient, even though my KZ650 Clymer manual called for 75 VAC from a single phase charging system. 68 , not 73. As usual, you start talking before reading, comprehending, or both.
And this was BEFORE it was established that Clymer had the values flipped in the KZ550 manual. You only grabbed onto that when you realized your bike's three-phase stator actually puts out MORE than what the correct value for a three-phase KZ550 calls for, and your comparing your bike's three-phase stator output to my bike's single-phase stator output was a flawed comparison.
Good God man, just grow up and go away.
Don't PM more of your pals to come in and defend you.
Don't try to twist your words, which are there for all to see, to try and "win" this.
Here's the bottom line. With no help from you, my bike's three-phase stator output is resolved. The single-phase output is still low, but changing over to the three phase charging system, and a helpful member's posting the correct stator values for the three-phase charging system have allowed me to check "stator output" off the list, and move on to the next step in the process, the regulator/rectifier.
Not only have you not helped, you have hindered. Your childish insistence on continuing to argue has been a distraction, and a time killer.
This is MY thread, started by ME, concerning MY bike. Your drama is not wanted here. Your grief is not wanted here. Your childishness and histrionics are not wanted here.
Three pages ago, you said you were done here. Why won't you just go away? You can unsubscribe from this thread and leave me dangling in the wind. My failure to resolve this problem will surely be your ultimate vindication.
Be mature enough to stop interfering with this thread, which is about problems I'm having with my bike, and has absolutely nothing to do with you.
Just
Go
Away
Now, you've already demonstrated that you will not go away, that like some totally freaky psycho loser stalking a woman who rejects him, you will continue to come in here and argue, distract, and spread your drama.
I'm done with you.
I will not respond to anything else you say.
I'm sure that statement will be met with a deluge of more of your childish behavior, but nothing else has worked, and I have a bike to fix. I'm not going to waste another second on you.
If you have an ounce of decency, maturity, or character, you'll go away and leave me to it.
Somehow, though, I'm sure you'll be back.
"That @#$%!!! KZ650"
79 KZ650 B3
Dual front disc brakes
Z1R 18" front wheel
Pumper carbs w/pods
MAC 4-1 w/ drilled-out baffle
Dyna S ignition w/ Dyna Green coils
WG coil mod
'81 CSR charging system
17/41 gearing
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- seanof30306
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The KZ650 back together and tested yet? Most all of KZR has been watching/ waiting.
plummen wheres your pic of the eager kid?:laugh:
I'll assume (for now) that you're genuinely interested, and not being facetious, as it appears.
Had to interrupt testing for a bit to address Death Wobble in Jeep (daily driver). Dropped Jeep off the other night and drove that @#$%^&*!!! KZ650 home.
It died 1/10 mile from mechanic #3's shop.
It was out of gas, this time. Whew. Still, there I was, once again pushing that @#$%^&*!!! KZ650 down the road.
One positive note was how bright the headlight was. Not only was it brighter at idle than it had ever been before, for the first time, it got brighter as I revved the bike. Before, it remained the same dim yellow, no matter what rpm the bike was at. That problem, at least, appears to be resolved.
On a negative note, after riding about 10 miles, I stopped at the store, and the starter would not turn the bike over fast enough to start it. It had spun over fine at mechanic #3's shop. By the time I got it home (about another 10 miles) the starter would not turn at all. Press the button; nothing.
We'd switched back over to the single-phase charging system before doing the charging system isolation test so we could see the difference between the single-phase and the three-phase charging systems when I had to reprioritize to fixing the Jeep, so I wasn't expecting much. Still, 20 miles seems pretty quick for a charging system to go dead.
Strangely, at the store when the starter would barely turn over, and at home when it would not turn over at all, the headlight remained bright. It would go dim when cranking, but as soon as I stopped cranking, it got bright as ever again.
Even more strangely, after letting the bike sit for a couple of hours, the starter spun perfectly, and it started right up.
"That @#$%!!! KZ650"
79 KZ650 B3
Dual front disc brakes
Z1R 18" front wheel
Pumper carbs w/pods
MAC 4-1 w/ drilled-out baffle
Dyna S ignition w/ Dyna Green coils
WG coil mod
'81 CSR charging system
17/41 gearing
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- loudhvx
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- KZr Legend
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That's strange, since you blamed me for wasting your money after you bought it.
:laugh:
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- Old Man Rock
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Has this new configuration been ridden for the mileage yet?
All electrical tests/measurements been confirmed?
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- seanof30306
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Wait a minute... After several previous attempts at this (300 miles or so) it went sour again...
Has this new configuration been ridden for the mileage yet?
All electrical tests/measurements been confirmed?
Again, my daily driver Jeep Cherokee developed terrible Death Wobble, so we had to suspend testing on that beautiful, red, classic @#$%^&*!!! KZ650 to work on the Jeep.
With the single-phase charging system, the stator would put out no more than 68 VAC, when Clymer called for 75.
With the three-phase charging system, the stator put out 63 VAC, and we learned Clymer called for only 50 VAC (three-phase), so I have come to believe the issue of stator ourput is resolved (at least, with the three phase charging system).
The next step was to move on to the charging system isolation test described to me by Rick from Rick's Motorsport Electrics to determine if the reguator/rectifier is working properly.
In anticapation of that test, we put the single-phase charging system back on the bike, but before we could do the charging system isolation test, my Jeep developed terminal Death Wobble, and I had to use the bike to get back home from dropping the Jeep off to be fixed.
That ride home was what I described above.
I wasn't expecting the bike to run properly, it's already been well-established that the single-phase charging system is not working to spec.
I'm also sure there is at least one other problem, (probably more problems) further down the line, but I am taking a systematic, step-by step approach to this, so now that I am comfortable that the stator is putting out what it should be, the next thing to do is confirm that the RR is working properly, which will be proven, or disproven by the charging system isolation test, the next thing to be done once the Jeep is fixed and we can concentrate on that beautiful, red, classic @#$%^&*!!! KZ650 again.
In the last tests, the single phase stator's output was 68 VAC, the DCV at the battery measured 12.2 @ idle, and under sustained revs of 4000 rose to 13.6, then cycled back and forth between 13.3 and 13.6 as the RR operated. Higher revs saw no improvement.
I was expecting the battery to discharge with those numbers, just not so fast. My plan was to just use the bike to get back and forth to work, and put it on the Battery Tender each night. After that ride, though, I've parked it.
The lights staying bright, even though the starter spun ever-more slowly, and finally, not at all, and the starter spinning fine after sitting for several hours, even though it wasn't on a charger has me curious. I've been into the starter less than 1,000 miles ago, so I'd hope the problem doesn't lie there, but you never know. It's just another thing to look into once the Jeep is fixed and we get refocused on that beautiful, red, classic @#$%^&*!!! KZ650.
"That @#$%!!! KZ650"
79 KZ650 B3
Dual front disc brakes
Z1R 18" front wheel
Pumper carbs w/pods
MAC 4-1 w/ drilled-out baffle
Dyna S ignition w/ Dyna Green coils
WG coil mod
'81 CSR charging system
17/41 gearing
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- 650ed
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Again, my daily driver Jeep Cherokee developed terrible Death Wobble, so we had to suspend testing on that beautiful, red, classic @#$%^&*!!! KZ650 to work on the Jeep.
Hey, just a doggone minute here fella! Shouldn't that read "Again, my daily driver Jeep Cherokee developed terrible Death Wobble, so we had to suspend testing on that beautiful, red, classic @#$%^&*!!! KZ650 to work on the @#$%^&*!!! Jeep. :laugh:
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Old Man Rock
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1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- seanof30306
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Hey, just a doggone minute here fella! Shouldn't that read "Again, my daily driver Jeep Cherokee developed terrible Death Wobble, so we had to suspend testing on that beautiful, red, classic @#$%^&*!!! KZ650 to work on the @#$%^&*!!! Jeep. :laugh:
Well, I bought the Jeep new in 1996, and it's gone 105,000 miles without needing a single repair, 65,000 miles on a set of 50,000 mile warrantied tires, and 65,000 miles on it's last set of brakes.
Hard to find much fault with it.
; )
"That @#$%!!! KZ650"
79 KZ650 B3
Dual front disc brakes
Z1R 18" front wheel
Pumper carbs w/pods
MAC 4-1 w/ drilled-out baffle
Dyna S ignition w/ Dyna Green coils
WG coil mod
'81 CSR charging system
17/41 gearing
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- jjdwoodman
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- Live free, or die.
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doesn't sound like your start prob is directy related to the stator from here.
In the last tests, the single phase stator's output was 68 VAC, the DCV at the battery measured 12.2 @ idle, and under sustained revs of 4000 rose to 13.6, then cycled back and forth between 13.3 and 13.6 as the RR operated. Higher revs saw no improvement.
I was expecting the battery to discharge with those numbers, just not so fast. My plan was to just use the bike to get back and forth to work, and put it on the Battery Tender each night. After that ride, though, I've parked it.
The lights staying bright, even though the starter spun ever-more slowly, and finally, not at all, and the starter spinning fine after sitting for several hours, even though it wasn't on a charger has me curious. I've been into the starter less than 1,000 miles ago, so I'd hope the problem doesn't lie there, but you never know. It's just another thing to look into once the Jeep is fixed and we get refocused on that beautiful, red, classic @#$%^&*!!! KZ650.
77 650b
81 550 Mostly there
83 ZN1300 Voyager
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- KZ250LTD
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Still, 20 miles seems pretty quick for a charging system to go dead.
Have you checked to make sure you aren't grounding out on the frame anywhere you shouldn't be or having excess draw from another area?
79 KZ1000ST
Past:
Many.
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