Best Place To Have Stator Rewound?

loudhvx wrote:

seanof30306 wrote:

You still insisted i was wrong, and even though there are only two part numbers for rotors for every single year of KZ650 that used a stator/rotor charging system, you still insisted I was wrong, saying the parts fiches are screwed up.

I spent just 5 minutes and found 3 part numbers for 650 rotors. 21050-1003, 1015, and 1041. That's not including the 1977 21007-033.

I didn't say the parts fiches were all screwed up. I said the cross reference charts are screwed up. I said the fiches are better, but not perfect.

21003-1005 stator
21050-1003 flywheel

1978 KZ650B2

1978 KZ650B2A

1978 C2 (Custom)

1978 KZ650 D1 (SR)

1978 KZ650 D1A (SR)

1979 KZ650 B3

1979 KZ650 C3 (Custom)

1979 KZ650 D2 (SR)

1980 KZ650 E1 (LTD)

1980 KZ650 F1



21003-1083 Stator
21050-1015 Flywheel, magneto:

1981 KZ650 H1 (CSR)

1982 KZ650 H2 (CSR)



21003-1083 Stator (Ref: 21003, and 21003A)
21050-1015 Flywheel, magneto (Ref 21050, and 21050A)

seanof30306 wrote:

As I understand it, if the brown wire is not hooked up, the RR will not short to ground. Would simply hooking the brown wire up to the positive battery terminal be sufficient?

The brown wire (voltage sense wire) on the reg/rec should be hooked up to a switched 12V source, that is there should be no voltage on the brown wire with the ignition off.

There's a brown wire going to your blinker relay that should have a double plug, that's wher my sense wire is connected, but basically any switched 12V source will do.


seanof30306 wrote:

Second, he was very specific about "outboard battery positive", and "outboard battery negative", correcting me each time I said "positie", or "negative". Am I missing something, or is he just being very specific?

I believe he's referring to the charging system isolation test where you connect to the outboard/alternate battery terminals.

OnkelB wrote:

The brown wire (voltage sense wire) on the reg/rec should be hooked up to a switched 12V source, that is there should be no voltage on the brown wire with the ignition off.

There's a brown wire going to your blinker relay that should have a double plug, that's wher my sense wire is connected, but basically any switched 12V source will do.

But, isn't the whole idea of this test to isolate the entire charging system from the rest of the bike? If you hook the brown wire to any switched source, aren't you failing to do that?

As far as the switched 12v source goes, isn't the reason you are doing that, rather than running the brown wire straight to the battery, so the brown wire will not be energized when the key is off?

If that is correct, then isn't switched 12v, and 12v direct from the battery the same when the switch is on?

If that is correct, then for the sake of this charging system isolation test, wouldn't it be best to hook the brown wire to battery + so as to ensure the complete isolation of the charging system?


OnkelB wrote:

I believe he's referring to the charging system isolation test where you connect to the outboard/alternate battery terminals.

OK, I'm totally confused here. yes, we're performing a charging system isolation test, but I don't understand the difference between an "outboard" battery terminal, and a battery terminal. That's what I was asking about.

As for the first question regarding the brown wire, I didn't realize you were talking about the test, thought you were talking about a permanent reg/rec installation.

Yes, when performing the test connecting the brown reg/rec wire to the positive battery terminal will work. The reason you want a switched 12V source for the brown wire when doing a permanent installation is to avoid battery drain with ignition off.

As for the second question, the way I understand it (may have explained myself poorly) "battery terminals" means the terminals on the battery already in your bike - "outboard battery terminals" means the terminals on the "outboard" or "alternate" battery you use for the isolation test.

I could be wrong on the second, but that's how I read it.

OK, that makes total sense. I hadn't even thought of that. I'm going over to mechanic #3's tonight, so we'll see what we see.

Thanks Onkel B.

BTW, am I correct in thinking English is the official "second language" in Denmark?

Years ago, I dated a girl who I think was from Denmark. I thought she told me English was required in schools there, which explained to me why every Dane I'd ever met spoke such perfect English.

Am I remembering correctly?

seanof30306 wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

seanof30306 wrote:

You still insisted i was wrong, and even though there are only two part numbers for rotors for every single year of KZ650 that used a stator/rotor charging system, you still insisted I was wrong, saying the parts fiches are screwed up.

I spent just 5 minutes and found 3 part numbers for 650 rotors. 21050-1003, 1015, and 1041. That's not including the 1977 21007-033.

I didn't say the parts fiches were all screwed up. I said the cross reference charts are screwed up. I said the fiches are better, but not perfect.

21003-1005 stator
21050-1003 flywheel

1978 KZ650B2

1978 KZ650B2A

1978 C2 (Custom)

1978 KZ650 D1 (SR)

1978 KZ650 D1A (SR)

1979 KZ650 B3

1979 KZ650 C3 (Custom)

1979 KZ650 D2 (SR)

1980 KZ650 E1 (LTD)

1980 KZ650 F1



21003-1083 Stator
21050-1015 Flywheel, magneto:

1981 KZ650 H1 (CSR)

1982 KZ650 H2 (CSR)



21003-1083 Stator (Ref: 21003, and 21003A)
21050-1015 Flywheel, magneto (Ref 21050, and 21050A)

Yes and if you actually looked at 21050A, you would see that it was part number 21050-1041.

I can't find where you said you were getting 73, but i did find this.

loudhvx wrote:

On my 550's, I only get 45vAC at 3000 RPM on each pair of yellow wires on the stator. I get about 71vAC at 6000 RPM. I would say 60-something volts at 4000 RPM is doing good.
You now have 3 phases so each one is going to have less than a 1 phase would have.

Two weeks of torture and all it would have taken was a little trust in this quote?

Now you say 63 is good.

:laugh: :woohoo: :laugh:

seanof30306, if I'm the one you claim to have run off the board for a year, you are seriously mistaken. I left for reasons that are so far over your head you are incapable of grasping the fact they exist. You're a toe biter with dreams of being an ankle biter, not hardly someone I'd pay any attention to.

3 years to fix a simple charging system, and all you've accomplished is to piss off all the experts, and it's all their fault, right?

I'm not in the mental health field, but I'm pretty sure there's a name for that disorder.

I'd be willing to bet that mechanics #1 and #2 are thanking whatever gods they believe in that you found mechanic #3, and mechanic #3 probably dreams of dumping gasoline on your bike and burning it to the ground, just so he'll never have to deal with you again.


I hope you found the above information helpful

This whole thread is just freakin hilarious!!!

loudhvx wrote:

I can't find where you said you were getting 73, but i did find this.

loudhvx wrote:

On my 550's, I only get 45vAC at 3000 RPM on each pair of yellow wires on the stator. I get about 71vAC at 6000 RPM. I would say 60-something volts at 4000 RPM is doing good.
You now have 3 phases so each one is going to have less than a 1 phase would have.

Two weeks of torture and all it would have taken was a little trust in this quote?

Now you say 63 is good.

Two weeks of your insisting that the specifications in Clymer and open-load tests in general are irrelevant, as proven by the fact that your 550s make less than what Clymer calls for. Then, of course, we find that your 550s actually make more VAC than what Clymer calls for, shooting your whole theory in the foot, and you never address it.

You'll never find where I said 73, because I never said 73. Just as you'll never find where I quoted KZ550 specs that were reversed, because I never quoted any KZ550 specs until after you posted your stator output at 4,000 rpm, and cleared up what you meant by reverses KZ550 specs.

All this is, is bluster on your part to keep from admitting that you were wrong in your assertion that the specs in the Clymer were irrelevant, and that you were wrong when you insisted your KZ550s proved that point by making less stator VAC than what Clymer called for.

Your KZ550s make more stator output at 4000 rpm than what Clymer calls for. You can ignore that all you like, but that is the fact of the matter. You have been proven wrong.

I said I was going to focus on stator output until it was resolved.

Your erroneously insisting the specifications in the Clymer manual are wrong, and offering your KZ550s' stator outputs as proof of that did nothing to resolve that, especially when following a procedure any third grader could master, testing your bike at the rpm actually called for in the Clymer manual, revealed your bike charges at a higher VAC than what Clymer calls for, not a lower one. Not only was your insistence that Clymer's specifications are irrelevant BS, but your "proof" was not only BS, it actually proved me right!

The stator output issue became resolved when OnkelB posted actual data for a KZ650 three-phase charging system that showed that beautifu, red, classic @#$%^&!!! KZ650s three-phase stator was actually outputting more than what Clymer calls for. Then, and only then, was the matter resolved.

if you can't understand the difference between an incorrect supposition and false proof on your part not carrying the same weight as specifications from a Clymer manual, the there's not much I can say. Clearly, you are unable, or more likely, unwilling to understand it.

I vote for the latter. You'll do anything to avoid admitting you were wrong.

I keep asking you one simple question: If I'm such a jerk, why do you keep coming back?

Go away

loudhvx wrote:

I also have the Clymer and the Factory Service Manual and would recommend both (I've learned from both).
And yes, most of the ohm tests etc are only one way tests. That means they can only confirm a dead one if it fails. They cannot prove that one is good if it passes. So they are 50% bullshit.

loudhvx wrote:

Open-load voltage tests are not really telling. Once again, it's one of those tests where if it fails badly (very low voltage), then yes, you know it's bad. But if it passes, it does not really confirm that it's working.

The only true test is a load test. This is not a difficult test to do, it just requires building a test fixture which will take a little time and a few automotive and/or 12 dc light bulbs.

loudhvx wrote:

On my 550's, I only get 45vAC at 3000 RPM on each pair of yellow wires on the stator. I get about 71vAC at 6000 RPM.

loudhvx wrote:

The open load tests can vary a lot. My 550 which charges fine, only had 71vac at 6000 rpm.

loudhvx wrote:

Unloaded stator tests don't mean much. The ones on my 550 read lower than yours when unloaded.

loudhvx wrote:

Yes, shrug off the unloaded test. Please get past that.

loudhvx wrote:

I'm sorry you bought the manuals. You can sell them on ebay.

seanof30306 wrote:

PLUMMEN wrote:

have you checked with sid pogue in oklahoma city?he used to crank out tons of work on the 900-1000s,i wonder if he knows of somebody in your area that could handle it for you?

I have not, thanks for the tip. Do you know how I can get ahold of him?

try pogue machine in oklahoma city,havent talked to him in about 5 years

this may be a stupid question but here it goes anyway,have you tried a differant meter to make sure you get same readings?