Coil Mod

Yes the Accel coils work and mount very nicely, the problem is that you loose about 25% of the spark voltage over the Dyna due to the fact that they are 4 Ohm. The Dyna coils are really great for the J series bikes but they suck for the earlier bikes for mounting and cable arrangement.

otakar wrote:

Yes it is the green coils. Plus you will require a set of coil wires. Just remember that the wires are wire kits you will have to crimp and assemble the coil ends. you can PM me about the wires before you buy any.

Ok, I'll start shopping for the dyna s since Z1 is out of stock. Any idea where I should check first?

otakar wrote:

Yes the Accel coils work and mount very nicely, the problem is that you loose about 25% of the spark voltage over the Dyna due to the fact that they are 4 Ohm. The Dyna coils are really great for the J series bikes but they suck for the earlier bikes for mounting and cable arrangement.

here is a set of 3ohm accel coils and wires.....3ohm...
www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/cata...28277&showprevnext=1

dyna s ignition for 3 ohm coils....
www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/P...oogle&utm_medium=cse



they are out there....just have to search...good luck....

ken wrote:

Well I used an ohmmeter and I do have power on the points at the leaf spring when the points are opened.

Continuity test with ohmmeter at points should be done with ignition switch in OFF position.

Good Fortune!

Just call Z1E and ask them how long they will be out. They are never out very long on anything as long as it is available.

Patton wrote:

ken wrote:

Well I used an ohmmeter and I do have power on the points at the leaf spring when the points are opened.

Continuity test with ohmmeter at points should be done with ignition switch in OFF position.

Good Fortune!

Patton, I did have the kill switch off. It was really wierd. At one point there would be juice on both points, both side while open. I would start her up, turn it back off and then one of the two would have juice while open. Thought maybe there's a a relay or something not opening or closing.

ken wrote:

Patton wrote:

ken wrote:

Well I used an ohmmeter and I do have power on the points at the leaf spring when the points are opened.

Continuity test with ohmmeter at points should be done with ignition switch in OFF position.

Good Fortune!

Patton, I did have the kill switch off. It was really wierd. At one point there would be juice on both points, both side while open. I would start her up, turn it back off and then one of the two would have juice while open. Thought maybe there's a a relay or something not opening or closing.

There's not supposed to be any voltage at points while ohmmeter testing for continuity.

If there's voltage at points with ignition switch OFF, then something's wrong with the wiring.

Could detach one battery cable from its terminal to assure no voltage at points while ohmmeter testing for (1) continuity between spring and case with points closed, and (2) no continuity between spring and case with points open.

This will help assure points are doing their job. And that the fiber washers are properly insulating.

Then can separately address whether voltage is reaching points when it's not supposed to.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

ken wrote:

Patton wrote:

ken wrote:

Well I used an ohmmeter and I do have power on the points at the leaf spring when the points are opened.

Continuity test with ohmmeter at points should be done with ignition switch in OFF position.

Good Fortune!

Patton, I did have the kill switch off. It was really wierd. At one point there would be juice on both points, both side while open. I would start her up, turn it back off and then one of the two would have juice while open. Thought maybe there's a a relay or something not opening or closing.

There's not supposed to be any voltage at points while ohmmeter testing for continuity.

If there's voltage at points with ignition switch OFF, then something's wrong with the wiring.

Could detach one battery cable from its terminal to assure no voltage at points while ohmmeter testing for (1) continuity between spring and case with points closed, and (2) no continuity between spring and case with points open.

This will help assure points are doing their job. And that the fiber washers are properly insulating.

Then can separately address whether voltage is reaching points when it's not supposed to.

Good Fortune!

I'll try this, after I get a new meter.

ken wrote:

Patton wrote:

ken wrote:

Patton wrote:

ken wrote:

Well I used an ohmmeter and I do have power on the points at the leaf spring when the points are opened.

Continuity test with ohmmeter at points should be done with ignition switch in OFF position.

Good Fortune!

Patton, I did have the kill switch off. It was really wierd. At one point there would be juice on both points, both side while open. I would start her up, turn it back off and then one of the two would have juice while open. Thought maybe there's a a relay or something not opening or closing.

There's not supposed to be any voltage at points while ohmmeter testing for continuity.

If there's voltage at points with ignition switch OFF, then something's wrong with the wiring.

Could detach one battery cable from its terminal to assure no voltage at points while ohmmeter testing for (1) continuity between spring and case with points closed, and (2) no continuity between spring and case with points open.

This will help assure points are doing their job. And that the fiber washers are properly insulating.

Then can separately address whether voltage is reaching points when it's not supposed to.

Good Fortune!

I'll try this, after I get a new meter.

Well, I disconnected the battery/kill switch off and I do have a continuity on one of the points with it opened. I don't think it the fiber washer as the issue moves between points. :dry: Could there be a short in the wiring somewhere? Keep in mind it runs good up to the point the plugs foul.

otakar wrote:

Just call Z1E and ask them how long they will be out. They are never out very long on anything as long as it is available.

They told me next week or so.

The Accel coils are available in 3-ohm. At least the half dozen or so that I have are 3-ohms.