Coil Mod
- Patton
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Re: Coil Mod
23 May 2010 14:31
No holding off allowed. :laugh:
KZ1000Aken wrote:
KZ1000Aken wrote:
OK, The bike is a KZ1000A...father-n-law purchased it new in 1977. I got the about 10 yrs ago...11,000 mile...all stock (points). I've cleaned to carbs, leveled to floats. Just cleaned every connection I could find with steel wool( your advise)...fire right up and idled fine....
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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- Old Man Rock
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Re: Coil Mod
23 May 2010 14:48
"I was wonder if I should get some rebuilt kits for the carbs? The darn think run perfect for the first 20 miles."
Hold off on the rebuild kit for the time being...
Based on your replied experience with a volt meter, assumption is the electrical measurements have not been performed or at least not correctly.
First get all your electrical (Dyno, rectifier, regulator, charging system) measurements accomplished for if these are off then no way in hell is a rebuild kit going to work for crap no matter what is done to those carbs.
Then insure all ignition timing, valve clearances, compressions etc... are to spec.
Once this has been confirmed and to specifications, then think about the carb situation.
As provided in the other posting, contains the electrical checks and wiring diagrams.
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=479&Itemid=108
Good luck...
OMR
Hold off on the rebuild kit for the time being...
Based on your replied experience with a volt meter, assumption is the electrical measurements have not been performed or at least not correctly.
First get all your electrical (Dyno, rectifier, regulator, charging system) measurements accomplished for if these are off then no way in hell is a rebuild kit going to work for crap no matter what is done to those carbs.
Then insure all ignition timing, valve clearances, compressions etc... are to spec.
Once this has been confirmed and to specifications, then think about the carb situation.
As provided in the other posting, contains the electrical checks and wiring diagrams.
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=479&Itemid=108
Good luck...
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- mark1122
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Re: Coil Mod
23 May 2010 14:58 - 23 May 2010 14:59
Can someone help me figure out the W.G. coil mod? i hear its way cool and will make my bike faster.
:kiss: :laugh:
:kiss: :laugh:
76 KZ, frame gusset work,1200CC.Ported by Larry Cavanaugh, 1.5mm.over intakes, Carron Pipe, ZRX12 rear end, and seat,96zx9 front end.
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
~ ~ ~_@
~ ~ _- \,
~ (k) / (z)
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
~ ~ ~_@
~ ~ _- \,
~ (k) / (z)
Last edit: 23 May 2010 14:59 by mark1122.
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- Old Man Rock
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Re: Coil Mod
23 May 2010 15:02
Mark...
Now stop that... :laugh: :laugh:
Ken, download and read... KZ900 Electrical systems...
As you'll learn, there may be some small variations between models but from 1973 through 1980, pretty much the exact same...
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=463&Itemid=108
OMR

Ken, download and read... KZ900 Electrical systems...
As you'll learn, there may be some small variations between models but from 1973 through 1980, pretty much the exact same...

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=463&Itemid=108
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- mark1122
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Re: Coil Mod
23 May 2010 15:07
Sorry bud, but, I JUST HAD TO.:woohoo:
76 KZ, frame gusset work,1200CC.Ported by Larry Cavanaugh, 1.5mm.over intakes, Carron Pipe, ZRX12 rear end, and seat,96zx9 front end.
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
~ ~ ~_@
~ ~ _- \,
~ (k) / (z)
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
~ ~ ~_@
~ ~ _- \,
~ (k) / (z)
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- Old Man Rock
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Re: Coil Mod
23 May 2010 15:11
Evil bastard you are.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- otakar
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Re: Coil Mod
23 May 2010 16:52 - 23 May 2010 16:54
mark1122 wrote:
:laugh: "Coil Modifornication circuit". No More WG.
Sorry bud, but, I JUST HAD TO.:woohoo:




74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
Last edit: 23 May 2010 16:54 by otakar.
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- ken
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Re: Coil Mod
24 May 2010 09:44 - 24 May 2010 10:41
Well Otakar, when it comes to the electrical aspect I'm like a fish out of water. So per you instruction I set my multi meter on 50 DC V with the following results. Now keep in mind here when I give you the numbers I'm pretty novice in this field. Well here goes.
1)with the key on, bike not started I got a reading on the DC V line of the multi meter of 155 at the coils where the yellow/red wire going into the coil and the same on the green/black wires.
2)with the bike running the reading on the yellow/red wire went up to 175, but the reading on the black/green wires went down to 95. I should also metion the battery is new.
Last night I got on Z1 Enterprise and ordered a clymer manual and a new air fliter, just fyi.
1)with the key on, bike not started I got a reading on the DC V line of the multi meter of 155 at the coils where the yellow/red wire going into the coil and the same on the green/black wires.
2)with the bike running the reading on the yellow/red wire went up to 175, but the reading on the black/green wires went down to 95. I should also metion the battery is new.
Last night I got on Z1 Enterprise and ordered a clymer manual and a new air fliter, just fyi.
Last edit: 24 May 2010 10:41 by ken.
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- ken
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Re: Coil Mod
24 May 2010 11:27 - 24 May 2010 12:21
Oh ya one more thing, I thought I would double check the point gap and timming per the instruction on the owners manuel. I set the gap at .35mm on both. Now this where it this something gets wierd. It seems i have juice to both side of the points open and closed. I grounded my meter with the black lead to the frame and put the red lead on the leaf spring and I have juice still when I open the point? This can't be correct? can it? Oh ya, the juice seems to come and go. I'll do the same to the other point and no juice when the point is opened. I go back to the first and no juice when opened. Hope I wrote this to where it make sense.
Last edit: 24 May 2010 12:21 by ken.
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- Patton
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Re: Coil Mod
24 May 2010 11:47 - 24 May 2010 12:13
Ideally, the voltage reaching coil primary winding terminal should be same as voltage measured across battery terminals.
The voltage reaching coil primaries may be measured at the dual connector where red/yellow wire exits the harness. This is a "switched voltage" supply, meaning voltage should be present only with ignition switch in ON position.
Good Fortune!
The voltage reaching coil primaries may be measured at the dual connector where red/yellow wire exits the harness. This is a "switched voltage" supply, meaning voltage should be present only with ignition switch in ON position.
Good Fortune!

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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Last edit: 24 May 2010 12:13 by Patton.
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- Patton
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Last edit: 24 May 2010 11:51 by Patton.
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- Patton
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Re: Coil Mod
24 May 2010 11:54 - 24 May 2010 12:02
One drop of oil on the felt pad helps lessen wear on the points heels as they ride against the rotor and cam.
Black wire from left side (9 o'clock) points goes to whichever ignition coil (usually left side on large KZ fours) is firing outside spark plugs #1/4.
Other wire (sometimes green) from right side (3 o'clock) points goes to whichever ignition coil (usually right side on large KZ fours) is firing inside spark plugs #2/3.
Good Fortune!
[Click on image to enlarge vies.]
Black wire from left side (9 o'clock) points goes to whichever ignition coil (usually left side on large KZ fours) is firing outside spark plugs #1/4.
Other wire (sometimes green) from right side (3 o'clock) points goes to whichever ignition coil (usually right side on large KZ fours) is firing inside spark plugs #2/3.
Good Fortune!

[Click on image to enlarge vies.]
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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Last edit: 24 May 2010 12:02 by Patton.
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