Coil Mod

Patton, I took a breath and checked the points again. This time I have juice to boths points open and closed. I opened the points and check at the point where the points meet (juice). I check at the leaf spring and at the screw where the black/green wire connect and again, points open and still juice?? Am I correct to say there shoud not be juice with the points opened.

What are your thoughts on the numbers I got with the multi meter at the coils good/bad?

Felt pad missing! I put a little grease in the shaft.

ken wrote:

...checked the points again... have juice to both points open and closed. I opened the points and check at the point where the points meet (juice). I check at the leaf spring and at the screw where the black/green wire connect and again, points open and still juice?? Am I correct to say there should not be juice with the points opened.

What are your thoughts on the numbers I got with the multi meter at the coils good/bad?

Opening and closing of points serves to ground and unground the coil primary winding.

Would use an ohmmeter (not volt meter) to see whether circuit is disconnecting as it should between spring and case when points contacts are open. One test probe on spring, and other test probe on engine case. When points are open, the circuit should be disrupted.

When points are closed, the coil charges while its primary winding is reaching ground.

When points open, the coil fires (primary winding not reaching ground) through the "secondary loop" formed by plug wires, caps, plugs, and engine head.

The earlier postings dealt with determining whether battery positive voltage was reaching the coil primary with the ignition switch ON. Am unaware of some other necessary voltage measurement at the coil, or at the points.

The ignition coil itself will have a certain resistance in its primary winding, measured with an ohmmeter between its primary terminals (eg., 3 ohms or maybe 4 ohms).

Good Fortune!

Well I used an ohmmeter and I do have power on the points at the leaf spring when the points are opened.

If you have no experience setting points, (which can be a tedious process for the inexperienced) I would HIGHLY recommend that you replace them with a "Dyna-S" ignition system. It will make life so much easier for you, now and in the future. you will never have to set the points again, timing or dwell. A experienced person can do it just with a VOM but a Dwell meter is the proper way to do it, which I doubt you have. The timing has to be set with a timing light. You will never require those tools with the Dyna-S

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=200

Second of all when you are reading the meter, you have to read the scale at the "50V DC" that has the "50" labeled next to it. This is why the #s make any sense. They should be reading around 12V+- 2V. Plus is OK Minus is not.

Here are some pictures of a VOM scale like on your meter. I hooked it up to a 12V battery to show you about where the needle should be WITH THE ENGINE NOT RUNNING.

The scale at the end of the meter. Notice where the "50" is. That is where you will be reeding.

Where you see the progressive scale of 40 and 50 right above the 8 and 10 respectively, is where you will be reeding.

Do you see where it reads about 12.3V?

Hey Otakar,

Thanks for the pic/education on the meter. I looked and looked at the pick and just could not understand what I was doing wrong. Across the batter I was getting 35 volts and near the same at the coils and near 20 volt at the black and green coils wires. Well I brought the thing to work with me and talked to a guy who told me the meter was crap and reading high. So I checked it on a car battery and sure enought 35 volts on the car battery with the knob set at 50DCV. Guess I'll be getting a new one.

I Checked out Z1 for the dyna s but thier out of stock. Do you think I should just get the gray coils along with the Dyna S or wait and see if my coils are ok. Could this be the root of the fouling plugs?

Oh by the way I do have a dwell meter.............................I just don't know how to use it.!

You know I can't say thanks enough for the help this far. As you can see I would be completly lost were it not for you and Patton and other here on the forum.
Thanks again.

The Dyna-S uses the Green coils or at least should be green coils. The gray coils are for stock Kawasaki IC ignition systems from 1981 to about 85. I will check on the coils for you, which it is gray or green.

Yes it is the green coils. Plus you will require a set of coil wires. Just remember that the wires are wire kits you will have to crimp and assemble the coil ends. you can PM me about the wires before you buy any.

you can use accell coils with the dyna s...its an option....