Coil Mod

ken wrote:

...Well, I disconnected the battery/kill switch off and I do have a continuity on one of the points with it opened. I don't think it the fiber washer as the issue moves between points. :dry: Could there be a short in the wiring somewhere? Keep in mind it runs good up to the point the plugs foul.

As earlier noted, the points serve to ground and unground ignition coil's primary windings.

With points open, should be no continuity between points spring and engine case.

With points closed, should be continuity between points spring and engine case.

Any other results indicate wiring issue, often related to the fiber mounting washers which serve to insulate the points spring from ground until the contacts close together.

Would inspect the connector shared by both black wires at the fiber washer.
And also inspect the connector shared by both green wires at the fiber washer.
Either of these connectors may be touching the metal backing plate, and thereby grounding when they aren't supposed to be grounded. Or perhaps loosely connected with ability to intermittently touch ground.

Good Fortune!

[Click on image to enlarge view.]

I would do two more tests on the bike. First) Check the Voltage at the battery with the engine off. You should have between 12.2-12.5V DC with he bike off. Second) Start the bike and test the voltage at the same place with the bike running about 2500-3000RPM. You should measure between 13.5-14.5V DC. Do this before you install a new electronic ignition. It makes no difference how poorly the bike runs to do these tests as long as you can get it to the 3000+- RPM. Let us know what the results are. These tests should also be performed on the 50V DC scale.

Otto

I gotta vouch for Otakars plug wires. They are REALLY nice!
First class in materials and workmanship.

Hi Ken, I bought the fixing to do the coil mod, but decided I wouldn't have to. I had to replace the steering head bearings and decided that if I had to undo all those connections, I would clean them all. I mean all the connectors on the wiring harness, lights and all. Steel wool or Scotch Bright is good for the male connectors, but you have to clean the inside of the female ones also. A suggestion on this site or another, recommended pipe cleaners to do this. Just bend them and put a few twists in and now with a small amount of chrome cleaner or rubbing compound you can take all the corrosion out of the females connectors. Fold a clean spot and remove the cleaners from inside. I did this on my KZ 650 E1,and she starts up all the time. I don't see why installing the col mod would hurt anything. Is it needed after all the contacts are clean? No! Just my 2 cents worth. I do have a relay and holder for sales. Bob

tinlizzie37 wrote:

Hi Ken, I bought the fixing to do the coil mod, but decided I wouldn't have to. I had to replace the steering head bearings and decided that if I had to undo all those connections, I would clean them all. I mean all the connectors on the wiring harness, lights and all. Steel wool or Scotch Bright is good for the male connectors, but you have to clean the inside of the female ones also. A suggestion on this site or another, recommended pipe cleaners to do this. Just bend them and put a few twists in and now with a small amount of chrome cleaner or rubbing compound you can take all the corrosion out of the females connectors. Fold a clean spot and remove the cleaners from inside. I did this on my KZ 650 E1,and she starts up all the time. I don't see why installing the col mod would hurt anything. Is it needed after all the contacts are clean? No! Just my 2 cents worth. I do have a relay and holder for sales. Bob

Well, I have new coils, wires, plugs and dyna S ordered so I'm looking forward to installing and hoping for the best. Today I had a chance to go thru the wiring harness and kill switch. I was getting 11.5v to the coils. After cleaning it I have 12.5v? (with the bike running) dropped to 11.3v with just key on. I used steel wool for the male end and spray cleaner on the female. I completly took apart the kill switch, it was pretty bad inside.

I checked the coil lead again, only this time I turned off the headlight (duh) 11.72v

12.5 is ok at idle. The true test is to measure the actual voltage drop from battery to coil while it is idling. The way to do that is put the voltmeter's black lead on the coil's positive terminal, and the red lead on the battery's positive terminal. The voltmeter will now show the actual, average drop. This should be less than a volt and preferably less than 1/2 volt.

With so much discussion about the positive side, we must not forget about the negative side. That is from the coil's negative terminal to ground. This is much harder to get a true measure because that voltage fluctuates with every firing of the cylinder. The only accurate way is to use an oscilloscope while the bike is idling.

However, since there are no switches involved, you really just have to make sure the connections are clean and the wires look good for the negative (ground) side.

I really like where this post has taken us. With a bad beginning it has turned into a real problem solver. Congratulations thanks to all of you who have contributed to the positive aspects of this post.

otakar wrote:

I really like where this post has taken us. With a bad beginning it has turned into a real problem solver. Congratulations thanks to all of you who have contributed to the positive aspects of this post.

I second that. I started out not knowing hardly a thing about the kz1000 and now I'm getting ready to instal a dyna-s, coils, and new wires. I've got the voltage up where it should be with just the cost of my labor and a can of cleaner, and I'm sure if the dyna-s upgrade doesn't do the trick I can turn here for the next step to getting my kz trust/road worthy.
thanks again to everyone.

Old Man Rock wrote:

"I was wonder if I should get some rebuilt kits for the carbs? The darn think run perfect for the first 20 miles."

Hold off on the rebuild kit for the time being...

Based on your replied experience with a volt meter, assumption is the electrical measurements have not been performed or at least not correctly.

First get all your electrical (Dyno, rectifier, regulator, charging system) measurements accomplished for if these are off then no way in hell is a rebuild kit going to work for crap no matter what is done to those carbs.

Then insure all ignition timing, valve clearances, compressions etc... are to spec.

Once this has been confirmed and to specifications, then think about the carb situation.

As provided in the other posting, contains the electrical checks and wiring diagrams.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=479&Itemid=108

Good luck...

OMR

Why doesn't the diagram show the wires true colors!!!! Some things I just don't understand. Need to do some wiring and thought I'd use the diagram. It's not even USEABLE!! WTF? Is it some king of joke? Is it for kids? do japenese see in diff colors?

Write Kawasaki to complain....

There's several wiring diagrams in the last couple pages in color for ya....

Or you can use this modified diagram where all non essential conductors have been removed for bar bone wiring to run a KZ900 with points.

I need to rewire my main circuit on the 650 when I'm rebuilding her, def gonna cut out the coil mod and just wire everything up right. Although I'm gonna run just a toggle switch instead of my ignition, theres not gonna be anywhere to put it after the rebuild.