Coil Mod

No Ken you didn't it's A-holes like myself that jump on opportunities which are known and running jokes around here. You being new just were not privy to that tidbit. You just got a rude initiation, and for that I apologize. Welcome to the club bro. :blink: NOW CLEAN THOSE FRIGIN CONNECTIONS AND DO IT RIGHT. :woohoo:

ken wrote:

HOLY SMOKES GUYS! I just wanted to get some help getting my KZ run good so I could enjoy it . Sorry if I opened a can of worms.

Hi Ken, You didn't open a can of worms. The direction your thread has gone is one of the reasons we end up deleting a lot of posts. We can clean it up for you so you don't have to wade through 2 pages of non related replies.

:laugh: im never doing the coil mod!

The point we are making here without being too subtle, is that; If you are going to FIX a problem, than fix it. Find out what the problem is and fix it right. Don't try to bypass it just to save time or because you think it would be cool. (But I guess the latter would be OK) If you are going to do something as an improvement on the original design, than that is fine and encouraged. If for example you said that you found your weiring harness all burned up and this is what you did, than, that would be a legitimate reason and a good way to perform the REPAIR. Since you would not had anything real to work with. You, and NOT JUST YOU, must realize that this system is already built into your bike. Why BYPASS it with another one. Just repair the one you have in the bike already. One thing that has not been ever mentioned by any of us "Armchair Critics", is the real reason we are so against this modification. This "upgrade" puts your ignition at the mercy of a "full time activated relay". It is an electrically activated switch which; 1)is activated at all times during operation and has the opportunity to burn out and therefore fail, 2)since it is a solenoid switch, it is another power robbing appliance onto your already limited electrical system. The story would be quite a bit different if someone on this web-sight like "LOUDHX" would come up with a MOSFET operated system. This would make sense, and could also be used as a security anti-theft feature.

I would like to make a comparison that most of us can understand here. For those of us who have bikes that came from the factory with contact points, make the UPGRADE to the proverbial "electronic ignition" such as but not limited to the "Dyna" and "Martek". This is a perfectly logical technological upgrade. There have also been some that have motorcycles that came from the factory with electronic ignitions that have failed because of the years of use. Because the parts for these ignitions are scarce at best and sometimes not available altogether, that switching to the aforementioned is also a viable and legitimate option. However there have been a few in the past that have come on here and made a statement, such as; "I have upgraded my Kawasaki IC ignition to a Dyna-S ignition". This in fact is NOT an upgrade and is in fact a "downgrade" since the stock Kawasaki IC ignition is better than the Dyna-S, and Dyna has never claimed to be so. They have done this because they were uninformed and they THOUGHT that they were making an upgrade. To do an upgrade in this instance the individual would have to had UPGRADED to for example the "Dyna-2000" or the MSD MC-3/4 ignitions, or the "LOUDHVX" GM ignition module kit. Those would be an UPGRADE to the stock Kawasaki IC ignitions.

So what I am saying in my usual long-winded way is that there are "Improvement Modifications" and there are "Uninformed Unnecessary (sometimes costly) Changes". The nice part about this websight is that if you are not sure than you can "Ask before you DO" Once you have gathered enough information from us Overly Opinionated A-Holes, you can separate the fact from fiction and take the best advice. MINE :woohoo: No just kidding. :silly:

Hay Guys. As I have been proof reading these last two posts. I have a effect in my LCD monitor and it has several vertical lines on the scream. One of these lines just happened to run threw the words "coil MOD FiFICaTION" just where the first "I" was. and as i usually do I read a strange phrase as depicted "MOD-FICTION" :woohoo: I started to laugh and realized how appropriate the words are in replacing the word "modification" for this application. So in my Repertoire this will be the new name for this subject. Mod-Fiction

What about this name for it...?

Coil-Mod-Fornication-Circuit....

Old Man Rock wrote:

What about this name for it...?

Coil-Mod-Fornication-Circuit....

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Boy-Thats putting it politely . BUT I LIKE IT- I LIKE IT :woohoo: But we do have a few ladies on this web sight, who way not see the humor.

Well guys, I've cleaned every connection I could find. Got out the multi meter to find out I'm not really sure if I have the correct type. Earlier advised said to set it on 12 or 20. My does not have a setting for that. It has x1k OHM, 25, 250 mADC, 50, 250, 500 AC V, 10 50, 250, 500 DC V. Is there a setting that will work? Today I also tried a hotter plug. Same results fouled and black soot after 20 miles. I was also going to swap #2 and #3 wire as #2 plugs looks good , but #3 would not reach plug 2. I guess one thing at a time I'll get there. I was wonder if I should get some rebuilt kits for the carbs? The darn think run perfect for the first 20 miles.

ken wrote:

...cleaned every connection I could find...tried a hotter plug. Same results fouled and black soot after 20 miles... wonder if I should get some rebuilt kits for the carbs? The darn think run perfect for the first 20 miles.

Carb rebuild kits --- may not need.

Given healthy, properly timed spark.

And acceptable compression, including valve clearances to specs;

Look at air/fuel supply ---

Assure air filter is clean and unobstructed.

Would next assure correct fuel levels via clear tube test.
Too high results in excessively rich mixture.

Could test run with leaner pilot circuit:
-- Side located air screws -- turn out one turn,
-- Bottom located mixture screws -- turn in one turn.

Internal carb pilot air passages may be obstructed.

Possible, but unlikely, choke linkage incorrect whereby plungers aren't fully seating when choke is off.

Good Fortune!

50V DC is where you want to set the meter.

If the bike has been sitting for that many years than going threw the carburetors thoroughly is a given and I just took for granted that has already been done with some degree of proficiency. If the bike is SO OLD that it still has points than that is the next step to replace with a more modern IC ignition of ones own choosing. So until we determine what model bike we are talking about lets hold off.