Seafoam causing carb problem??

I let it sit for awhile and went out to start. It fired right up and shot up the RPM's to over 5. I worked with the idle knob to get the idle down and then it sputtered and died. Started 2 more times - sputtered and then died. Then nothing. Won't start again. I am betting if I wait for awhile it will start up.

It is getting gas - checked float bowls and they have gas. It must be getting too much fuel and flooding. Not sure how that is happening. I

could be a vacuum leak, how old are your carb boots? turn the idle knob to where the bike will run & spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid on the carb boots, if you see a change in RPM's , you have leaking carb boots & need to replace them
Pete

Maybe leave the idle at 3,000 or just over for a good 45-60 sec to build a little heat ....... I know I'd grab for the idle screw fast to lower it too but maybe let i clean out once and warm up a little ?? Then if it stays running and dies after warming up when lowering it "seems" like it would have to be in the pilot system.

Are you trying to start it without the air filter(s) installed? Sounds dumb but if you aren't hooking up everything to the carbs like it should be it will cause problems by running tooooooooo lean. Make sure all the vacuum ports are plugged or hooked up, all your intake boots are properly seated and sealed, and your air filter(s) are properly installed.

A freakin miracle! I went out to start it and it jumped immediately and revved again up to 5K. I adjusted idle screw to get it down to 1500. Not sure why idle was so high but I did bench sync them and maybe had it way to high. Anyway it idled at 1500 until I could get my gear on and then I took it for a ride. Fast, smooth and instant roll on in any gear. Runs much smoother and with more power than last week - when I noticed the rusty gas. I set the fuel level, bench synced the carbs and made sure everything was clean. This thing is like a bat out to hell. Not sure chassis can keep up with power.

Not sure what took so long to start and I guess the test will be if it will start again when cold. Whatever - this thing is a beast.

Thanks to all who contributed to my situation. Everything is hooked up properly and all of the boots are tight. They are in very good shape. I am thinking residue from the old gas may have needed to be blown out. I double and triple checked all connections, wires, lines, etc., to make sure they weren't hooked up wrong, crossed, etc.

Good ta hear,
Pete

Drain the float bowls in case there's crap still in there.
Steve

Rockranch wrote: One surefire way of testing for good spark is removing plug, reinsert in plug cap and tap the starter button while holding plug with thumb on electrode. Sounds crude but a foolproof way to tell the strength of spark if any at all. (this method not recommended for anyone with a pacemaker). ................................Mike

Vroom-vroom!!!

That is not the best way. Groin area is more sensitive. :evil:

car5car wrote:

Rockranch wrote: One surefire way of testing for good spark is removing plug, reinsert in plug cap and tap the starter button while holding plug with thumb on electrode. Sounds crude but a foolproof way to tell the strength of spark if any at all. (this method not recommended for anyone with a pacemaker). ................................Mike

Vroom-vroom!!!

That is not the best way. Groin area is more sensitive. :evil:

:woohoo: :woohoo: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Pete

At 61 years of age I need something to shock my groin area.

swest wrote: Could be something stupid like a disconnected wire.
Steve

Or bumped the cutoff switch on the handlebars into the "off" position. I know an idiot who did that.

I do too. :blush:
Steve