It runs!!!! BUT!

Looks that way to me too... both are one whole tooth off....??

Ok removed camshafts and re installed

Advancer

Cams. Getting better?

Looks like the advancer has been tampered with. Is it even the right one?
Steve

Yes stock as far as I can tell. The clymer manual actually has a better procedure for setting it than the FSM

The spring is stretched. It should be in the relaxed position.
Steve

With the plugs removed while spinning over the engine, do the plugs produce visible fat blue sparks?
This helps determine that the ignition system is serviceable and capable of producing adequate sparks.

If so, it's then necessary to determine whether the sparks are timed correctly, which is the ignition timing set by aligning the F mark on the advancer with the timing mark on the case.
The ignition system doesn't know what the valves are doing.

A separate consideration is the cam timing, which governs opening and closing of the valves in relation to crankshaft rotation.
The cams don't know what the sparks are doing.

Good Fortune!

swest wrote: Looks like the advancer has been tampered with. Is it even the right one?
Steve

Excellent question! I understand that my advancer will be a little different because it is for a KZ650-C1, but the one in his picture may be fiddled with. It has fewer coils than mine and so it is stretched a bit tighter; this may be perfectly normal for his model - I cannot say. However, it appears to have a piece of metal inside the coils (see yellow arrow in image below). Is that just a photo anomaly, or is it really there. If it really is there, is that normal for the advancer on his model? The second image below shows the KZ650-C1 advancer for comparison. Ed

The advance won't work right with the springs too tight. Must have been tampered with. I suggest getting a used one or new for that bike. If it's isn't for that machine, the cam timing could be wrong making for a FK'd up day. Bent valves etc. I'd make sure.
Steve

Use a piston feeler to verify the T mark in fact lines up when the piston is at TDC.

Use a pencil or short length of coat hanger into the spark plug hole to feel the piston.
Put a vise grip on the big nut to turn the crank with no slop. ( i usually use the bolt on the alternator, it's more robust.)
Rock the vise grip back and forth across TDC and find where the stick stops moving at either end of the vise grip travel. The center of the vise grip movement is TDC. The T mark should line up at that point. If not, then you have to figure out if the advancer is original or not.

The advancer is original. I've had this bike for 4 years and my uncle had it for the rest. The advancer matches pictures in both manuals I have. The bike ran with this advancer for many years.

Picture from FSM
As you can see in my blurred image the advancer springs do appear slightly stretched but my pic and manual pic are identical. Same number of coils on springs

Thanks.

bromz wrote: The advancer is original. I've had this bike for 4 years and my uncle had it for the rest. The advancer matches pictures in both manuals I have. The bike ran with this advancer for many years.

Attachment not found

Picture from FSM
As you can see in my blurred image the advancer springs do appear slightly stretched but my pic and manual pic are identical. Same number of coils on springs

Here is a picture of one of my extra parts from a bike like this and it shows the springs in the same tension... I think yours is stock and not altered... but I don't know if there is a piece of metal in there or just an anomaly in the photo....