Black deposits on pistons

Save yourself time and head aches and send the head to Larry C. or another reputable shop that does this for a living, you will have it done properly and can get other things done while it is away. I will not work on a cylinder head other than assembly to motor because of the many unknowns that qualified techs have at their disposal.
Just my $.02
Good luck

Nessism wrote: Humm, some questionable advice here.

And just what's questionable here about bead blasting the head ?
You to stupid or lazy to wash your shit after ward's I mean come on
dude

KzChop82 wrote: How the heck do I measure that, calipers? From where to where? Happy to measure, just not sure how.

Q: when I'm lapping the valves using garnet- what grit should I start/end with?
On this site ( www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplie...nSubmitSearch=Search ) I see 600, 800, and 1000.

Thoughts?

Get some valve lapping compound at AZ, OR or any major auto parts store. They come with two containers, coarse and fine. Use the coarse to clean the valve and seat and fine to finish lapping them in. If there are blank spots, then it's time for a grind. New valves too. I doubt it.
Steve

That little bit of polishing that lapping the valves is going to accomplish would be better used to fine tune an actual valve job,think about longevity here.

Having just done my first valve job on my rebuild, I'd say get it done for you. I got all but one to fully seal. i found setting the shims a pain in the a** which needs to be done after lapping and new springs (right?). i also in hindsight should have replaced the valve guides for longevitys sake. Pit stop performance will do a full valve job and set your shims for pretty cheap. Though Larry does a good job too. Comes down to the "while your there" saying. Opening up the bottom end? Why not weld the crank. While welding the crank why not balance it ect...plus if they screw up its on their dollar. If I screw up its on mine.

If I were to send the head out- I have a couple of questions:

A- what would I have to send with it? If they are resetting the shims- wouldn't they need both my cams as well? They would basically need everything but my c chain I suppose?

And B- what does something like that cost?

Now we've gone from cleaning up the pistons and re using the rings, to cleaning the valves and replacing the seals, to lapping the valves, to replacing the springs, to grinding the seats and finding used valves, Now to splitting the cases and truing the crank and welding it. Why not a complete overhaul of the transmission? All for replacing a head gasket on a low mileage engine? HOG WASH. We haven't even seen what the clean valves look like. It's nothing to lap the valves and it will be apparent if the seats need to be done.
Opinions are like Ass holes, everybody's got one.
Stay the course and don't be swayed by a bunch of "arm chair quarterbacks".
If you do decide to have the head done, do your research on whom you chose first.
Steve

With the valve job, I've overhauled my Z1 engine 3 times in 40 years. In 87 I had a Z2 750 crank checked and welded by VH, new guides and seals, used valves from a low mileage motor, three angle valve seat grind, relieved and ported the head and all new cam chain components. Most of the work I did myself. I've been working and overhauling my own cars, bikes and trucks for over 40 years. I worked in various shops, seen some of the most crooked people at work. I have one prime rule, if someone comes to watch they keep their mouth shut or GET OUT. This aint no party, no beer fest, no FKNG around. I ran my 900 for three years until I broke a cam chain. Lesson learned. Bored it out to 1015 in 78, ran it with stock 75 cams and lapped valves until 84 when I installed my Andrews cams and Lester Mags. Didn't shift the crank and the bike ran like a raped ape. Took it to Lyons to see what it would do in the !/4 mile, just had a blast. Then the wreak in 86. I had the crank welded in preparation for a 100cc over bore when I could afford it. Now I have the springs and KZ 1000 barrels I always wanted, now this is possible without too much expense. I listened to the ones I trusted and ignored the flapping gums. I've said it before and I'll say it again, there are plenty of people that will cheerfully rebuild your engine for not starting, in this case a leaking gasket.
Assume nothing, suspect everyone.
Steve

One more thing. I agree with a previous poster about the frame. It will be stressed dealing with a 91 BHP motor. I wouldn't to try to make it deal with a 125 BHP one.
Steve

KzChop82 wrote: If I were to send the head out- I have a couple of questions:

A- what would I have to send with it? If they are resetting the shims- wouldn't they need both my cams as well? They would basically need everything but my c chain I suppose?

And B- what does something like that cost?

First off you would send everything you just mentioned. As for re shimming the valves, it can be done on the bench but should be checked and readjusted after 500 miles anyway. If a person can't adjust the valves, then he has no business rebuilding anything. You've gone this far and done so well, I doubt you will have any problems putting it back together. From what I've seen of the valve, it doesn't look like it has a ridge. I'd like to see more pics of them though.
The cost depends on the shop and what they do. You can get estimates and go from there if needed.
Steve

swest wrote: Now we've gone from cleaning up the pistons and re using the rings, to cleaning the valves and replacing the seals, to lapping the valves, to replacing the springs, to grinding the seats and finding used valves, Now to splitting the cases and truing the crank and welding it. Why not a complete overhaul of the transmission? All for replacing a head gasket on a low mileage engine? HOG WASH. We haven't even seen what the clean valves look like. It's nothing to lap the valves and it will be apparent if the seats need to be done.
Opinions are like Ass holes, everybody's got one.
Stay the course and don't be swayed by a bunch of "arm chair quarterbacks".
If you do decide to have the head done, do your research on whom you chose first.
Steve

I said to clean and check the valves,And if any of them couldn't be ground to replace those with some decent used ones that could be turned. :whistle: