Black deposits on pistons

I am using aftermarket higher lift/longer duration cams. Andrews 1 X cams considered drop in's. Special springs were not necessary. I have my new shims and it's been about 500 miles, so I will check and adjust the valves if needed. I recorded the size and clearance when I adjusted them after the valve/spring and seal install. I'll be interested in seeing what if anything these heavier springs have done to my valves.
STeve

Nessism wrote: No way I'd use a spring that has more seat pressure than stock, unless you are using aftermarket high lift cams.

And your also the guy that argued with me that you
DON'T need all the cam chain component's installed to degree a cam. :huh: :huh:

Here's my take on that head and valve's based on 35+ year's repairing and racing
both car's and bike's have the head bead blasted and clean the valve's with a
wire wheel then lap the valve's and then you will be able to really see what you have to work with.
And as far as those valve's are burnt bullshit they just have carbon build up on them.
A "burnt" valve will look like you cut it with a torch.
I've had race motor's lean out and burn a valve and half the valve head was gone.
Just for reference here's the head I'm doing right now.

zukdave wrote:

Nessism wrote: No way I'd use a spring that has more seat pressure than stock, unless you are using aftermarket high lift cams.

And your also the guy that argued with me that you
DON'T need all the cam chain component's installed to degree a cam. :huh: :huh:

Here's my take on that head and valve's based on 35+ year's repairing and racing
both car's and bike's have the head bead blasted and clean the valve's with a
wire wheel then lap the valve's and then you will be able to really see what you have to work with.
And as far as those valve's are burnt bullshit they just have carbon build up on them.
A "burnt" valve will look like you cut it with a torch.
I've had race motor's lean out and burn a valve and half the valve head was gone.

Humm, some questionable advice here. You forgot the part about plugging all the oil passages before bead blasting a cylinder head. If you don't the glass grit will get down inside the blind oil passages where it's extremely difficult to clean out.

It's going to take an aggressive cut on a valve facing machine before those valves are clean again. The carbon build up is a result of the valves not closing fully. I characterize those as burned valves. It may be possible to save them, but not through lapping as being suggested in this thread.

Couldn't have said it better myself. I was trying to be civil. Now here's a burnt valve. It's the one on the left.



Steve

Huh Boy! :whistle:

After looking at this on YouTube:



And then doing a little cleaning of my own valves and seats:




I'm 99% sure that my valves, and their seats, are NOT burned.
As the carbon buildup is cleaned away the finely machined edges of the two surfaces has been revealed.

Mind you, I'm not finished with the cleaning yet.

What do the exhaust valves look like? How wide is the valve seat?

well does not look too bad i would lap them in to see what the contact area looks like.maybe a light clean up cut with a 45 degree cutter and pilot,

How the heck do I measure that, calipers? From where to where? Happy to measure, just not sure how.

Q: when I'm lapping the valves using garnet- what grit should I start/end with?
On this site ( www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplie...nSubmitSearch=Search ) I see 600, 800, and 1000.

Thoughts?

KzChop82 wrote: After looking at this on YouTube:

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And then doing a little cleaning of my own valves and seats:

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Id say burned is just a general figure of speech for most people.
Anyway clean the head up and the valves,stick the valves in the guides and give em the wiggle test.
If the valves are reasonably tight in the guides with no major slop reuse the guides,if not replace the guides.
Take the head to a decent shop and have them do the minimum cut on the seats to make them right.Do the same thing on the valves.
If any of the valves are too far gone find some decent used ones and have them ground.
Make sure to check installrd height on valves and have them tipped if need be.
As far as the valve springs go you can measure your existing springs and reuse them if theyre in spec,or buy new ones if you've got extra to spend.That motor in that bike isn't going to get spun to 10,000 rpms. :laugh:
As far as kibble white and their titanium retainers,spend your money on things that motor really needs! :woohoo:
Almost forgot new seals! :laugh:

KzChop82 wrote: How the heck do I measure that, calipers? From where to where? Happy to measure, just not sure how.

Q: when I'm lapping the valves using garnet- what grit should I start/end with?
On this site ( www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplie...nSubmitSearch=Search ) I see 600, 800, and 1000.

Thoughts?

Save your time/money,wait till after the seats/valves are ground before lapping valves.