TOPIC:

I do not see how you can replace the valve seals on that engine without pulling the head.

There is no easy way to compress the valve springs.

It is possible on some heads, and I have done it in cars with an air compressor. But the valve springs are accessible on the ones I did.

On a KZ, the valve springs are down in a pocket inside the head. No room to get a spring compressor in there.

I don't see any other solution that to pull the head.

pctech101 wrote: ...Do i need to buy new rings again?...
Or what if i got oil ring 123 upside down, can i just flip them?....

Would carefully inspect each oil ring for any damage before re-installing it.

I don't know whether new oil rings are separately available.

DIY valve tools are often used (engine head removed, of course).
Clamp, plus diy-sculpted socket, short length of metal pipe or PVC pipe.













Good Fortune!

look at the tool the guy used here for removing valve keepers:
www.lextreme.com/valve_seals.html
anyone ever used something similar? it looks like a life saver as far as what i am wanting to do.

This is a little short on details, but here's something that was posted in another thread about changing valve stem seals without removing the head:

Oh and you could change the stem seal when you go to adjust the valves, no reason to remove the head. Hold the the valves in place with shop air, while at TDC firing position. Then you can take the spring off and change the seal. Really the valve can go nowhere when the piston is up, the shop air is to hold the valve to compress the spring.

Most of these old KZs have had the guides replaces several times. If you drive the old guides out without removing the carbon from the tip, it will broach the hole as it goes out. Then if a new guide is installed that is not tight enough, the vacuum on the intake side will suck oil down the outside of the guide.

We have seen o-rings like Larry said, and silicone under the base as an attempt to stop this.

tachrev wrote: I do not see how you can replace the valve seals on that engine without pulling the head.

There is no easy way to compress the valve springs.

It is possible on some heads, and I have done it in cars with an air compressor. But the valve springs are accessible on the ones I did.

On a KZ, the valve springs are down in a pocket inside the head. No room to get a spring compressor in there.

I don't see any other solution that to pull the head.

I"m with you. That job would be a mutha

I love this... <---- sarcasm

rode easily to get scripts, smokes, but not bad, barely going through the oil, bam... like someone turned key off (dash still lit)... pull over, restart, go 3/4 of a mile, does it again. plugs getting no spark, didnt have volt meter to test power to coil packs. pulled pulsiing coil cover and tested igniter (turn key on, touch pulsing coils with screw driver, no spark). been having issues with 1 & 4 not firing and thought i had it fixed, bad connector on coil pack. guess my igniter might be failing instead.

if it aint one thang its another...
or
when it rains, it pours...
or
if it can go wrong, it will...

will try louds hei igniter mod tomorrow i guess.

let me ask...
if i pull down and look at rings and cylinder number 1-3 oil rings are upside down, can i just flip them? do i need to have cylinders honed again? when i pull it down, will i be able to visually determine if oil ring is upside down?

The oil rings won't be upside down. It it the expander ends that must "But" together, and then the small circle rings must have the ends basically opposite each other. The Two compression rings will/ should be marked as to which way is up, either a dot or a letter. The top and second ring will be different. Top one could be a chrome face, second might be but probably just cast iron. This depends on manufacturer. I suspect either the oil ring expander is not "Butted" or maybe the two thin oil rings could be bent/ damaged, as they are easy to have trouble with.

Quote From ELCouz

EDIT:

Do i have to buy new rings again if i just have oil ring upside down or can i just flip it?


If new bore is required (oversize pistons thus oversize rings needed) or deglazing (honing) again i would recommend so! They don't have side (up or don't doesn't matter) only the oil expander ring have a side and must not be overlapped (like in the previous picture)!

pctech101 haven't you read all the post i've made in this discussion?

what's the point giving my time on this when simple reading could have answered this question!???

i have a poor memory, yes i read that previously. im sorry i am wasting your time. it is hard for me to read this on my cellphone screen.

so mod, you can close this thread since it appears you cant replace valve stem seals with head on bike.

I think that you will find that Yes you can replace the valve stem oil seals with the cylinder head still on the motor and in the bike. I thought that besides myself, there was other posts in your current thread about this. The biggie is that you would need some additional tools, expense. This may exceed the value of a few new gaskets. Also the majority opinion is that the Stem seals would not have the oil consumption level you are discussing. that is why it is recommended to pull the head and cylinders to inspect.
Why close the thread when you may still need help/ advice?