APE Jay wrote:
cavanaughracing wrote: I just noticed that's an 83 model.
With some J heads, the valve guide fit wasn't the best. They sometimes were loose. Most times, you can install new standard sized guides without any problems. However, on occasion, an oversize guide is required because of the loose fit.
Last one I had like that come through the shop, I noticed it when the guide installed with very little resistance. I replaced them with OS guides.
Now Kawasaki was aware of the problem but didn't make a public notice of it. They used to have us install an o-ring around the the top of the guide. The spring seat would hold it down in place. This was not ever done under warranty as a warranty issue. However, if the engine happened to be apart for a head gasket, porous block replacement...etc. I would get authorization to replace the valve seals and install those O-rings.
I'm not saying that's your problem but it's something to make note of.
NADS read this
Ahh the old 83 story, good one! I know the story since I had a guide come out that I put in.
Valve seals in the kit are junk, they pull apart like bubble gum. If it was my bike I'd take out the cams and buckets and visually inspect the valve seals and take it from there. Remove the carbs and peek into the port? Shine a light into the plug hole and look for a carboned valve. Follow the yellow brick road! I hope someone told you it is easy to replace guide seals with the head on. Cuz it is.
If you don't find the problem in the head, you'll need to take the cylinder to the a shop and have the bores measured. This takes about one minute of the guy is fast and should not cost hardly a thing.
But I live in nd so....
Check for oil leaking below the tensioner and on the top of the case. It runs down through a hole and exits on the left side of the bike . O ring around clutch pusher bar could be checked too.
I'm thinking larry is on track here, once you remove a guide another one of the same size is not usaully going to go in tight, you can feel this as you install them. The person who did it knows.
A slight pressure fit is not enough, they need to be solid, (not super tight) just solid giong in. All the way to the bottoming. I would think you need at least .002 oversize guides and without them oucha wowa. Too loose for my blood. It's not the end of the world. If it happens you have to take off the head then I would install a driver into each guide and tap it with a hammer so you know they are tight in there. If they move easy they WIL come out. Alot of aluminum gets moved right out of those guide holes when old guides are removed, ask anyone and everyone who's done it. Some alot, some a little. I just go by feel when I put them back in.
Guides can be removed and peened on top a vise or bench. This has to be done very conserative or you'll get it way too big and forcing it in after that is more trouble yet.
Just saying you don't have to get new guides but the seats will need cutting again after they are back in.
Wish I was there to help. I know what it's like having no money and noone with any experience around to count on doing these things. Just take your time and take it apart piece at a time and you'll see what's happening, learn alot.
I just put my engine back together, then had a cam chain galley leak. I took the head off and every cylinder is burning oil, the seals when I put them on were pathetic. They were new, but they were like mush. Two of them tore aprt just pushing them on and one tore when the valve pushed through it. BUT.
I also used my old rings from a 903 block I had bored ( they cave man'd it) I put them in a stock 1015cc block that had 25thou on the engine. They were in good shape.
So I don't know where the oil is going but there's none on the ground!
It burn alot of oil, about the rate yours is. But BOY is mine FAST!
I like to hang out with people who have oil.
I'll see soon wether it's gonna get better on the oil burning, it may have already slowed down
You gotta be more like me, I just don't care.
If I didn't want it to burn oil I would have set it up that way. But those seals man are garbage.
I wouldn't bet the farm you won't lose your oil through bad seals I've seen this before. Oil doesn't magically stay on top the motor when there's a hole you can see daylight through between the seal and the valve. And the suction on the intake side. Take a look at the intake valves through the plug holes and look for carbon. That one though is going to mean tearing it down. That's the leaker or loose guide or torn seal or what have ya.