Clutch issue/Checking Timing

Each points set is held by two screws to a back plate. Each back plate is held by two screws (through slotted holes) to the round mounting plate. The round mounting plate is held by three screws (through slotted holes) to the engine case. A cam fits through the advancer. The heels of the points ride the cam to open and close. A little oil soaked felt pad lubes the cam so the heels don't wear out so fast.

1st -- Adjust gaps -- Do this separately for each points set. Dress point contacts if needed to minimize pitting by using a point file or fine sandpaper pulled through between the contacts. Clean the contacts. Turn crankshaft clockwise using 17 mm wrench to widest points opening and adjust gap separately for each set of points at FSM spec (eg., KZ900 is 0.3-0.4mm or .012-.016 inch). Each points set has two base screws to very slightly loosen thereby allowing movement to open or close gap, then retighten after setting gap. The widest gap happens when the heel is resting on the highest part of the cam. At this stage nothing but the gap has been adjusted. But this is important because proper gap affects the subsequent timing procedure. And other screws have remained tight.

2nd -- Set Timing -- Each points set has two mounting screws and pry slots which can be used with strobe light (after slightly loosening the two mounting screws) to align the respective F marks with the timing mark. But if the adjusting plate doesn't travel far enough to allow correct adjustment, then loosen the three mounting plate screws and move the mounting plate. Usually, the round back plate affixed with screws at center of slots is a decent starting position, and often doesn't need to be relocated from that position.

3rd -- Tighten and recheck --Tighten all screws and recheck timing with strobe light.

Also, check to assure proper operation of the advancer unit. If removed for cleaning and lubing, be sure the cam unit is replaced correctly and not 180 degrees off.

Also good to have a fan blowing onto the cylinders while setting the timing. Dynamic timing is done while the engine is running. I prefer using a strobe-type timing light (Z1E has a good one) which also allows seeing the advancer unit move forward and backward when changing rpm. Static timing with engine off, using a light bulb or ohmmeter, isn't as accurate as dynamic timing with a strobe light, but may suffice to at least get the engine running so it may then be timed dynamically.

Good Fortune!

KZ900 points are basically same as Z1 points, so this earlier thread should be helpful.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...d=4&id=391834#391975

Thanks Patton for all of the info. I am new to this and appreciate all of your info. I'll check on the clutch adjustments tomorrow morning. I have a 2006 ZX6R, so if I don't get this bike road ready by the spring, I'll still be able to ride.

larrycavan wrote:

Heavy oil in cold weather will greatly contribute to the clutch dragging on start up.
Before you start the bike, put in 1st gear, hold the clutch lever in and rock the bike forward to break he plates free... then warm up the bike.
While it's warming up, work the clutch lever a bit.
Go ahead and adjust it but it might not cure the problem. In fact, it probably won't

Go ahead and adjust it but it might not cure the problem. In fact, it probably won't.
Well said.

And along this same line, from the GB500 forum ---

Many of you GB 500 owners have probably experienced when you have not been riding your bike for some time, when firing it up and you push the gear lever into 1st, there is a loud klonk, and the entire bike moves a bit forward. There is a perfectly natural explanation. It's simply the clutch disc plates sort of "glue" together caused by the oil. However, already when changing into 2nd, it's gone.

Now, this loud klonk is in my opinion not good for the bike / transmission, and luckily it can very easy be avoided.

You fire up your GB 500, as you normally do, with or without choke.
You hold / keep the clutch grip firmly to the handle bar for about 15-30 seconds, and let the engine rev up and down.
After the mentioned 15-30 seconds, you rev it up a bit and let the rpm go down to approx. 1.000 or even lower, and then you push the gear lever into 1st.
You will now note that there is NO klonk sound, and the bike doesn't move at all.
I believe, that this way of engaging the 1st gear is far better for the bike and its transmission, bearings etc. etc.

This is the same procedure you can use on any other bike with a wet clutch. With bikes with dry clutch, you don't have this "problem".

Meanwhile, after cold start, might also try rolling the bike forward during the first shift from neutral into first, which often reduces the clunk.
Same as when starting from a stop and shifting into first gear without disengaging the clutch. Such as when riding with a broken clutch cable, for example.

Good Fortune!

If the bike has been sitting awhile the clutch plates will have frozen together. Some people frown on this, but I find the easiest way to free them is Start the bike in neutral, pull the clutch lever in and give the bike some gas (rev to like 3-5K) and then pop it into first. The shock will ushally break the plates free, but people round here worry that a noob will get hurt if the bike takes off on them (remember the bike does have brakes and a kill switch if you need it...)


The day long method of fixing the problem is to pull the clutch cover, pull the clutch apart and pry the disks off each other (shouldn't take to much prying). Scrape and replace the clutch cover gasket, put it all back together and your off...

While I tried to adjust the clutch earlier today and now it is even worse. I took the clutch cover off and loosed the bolt hold the screw in place. Loosed the screw and then screwed it back in until it got tight and then unscrewed it another 1/2 turn and tighten the nut. I also tried adjusting the center clutch cable. Now when I start the bike and put it in gear, it lurches forward and then shuts off. When the bike off, if I pull the clutch in, I can not roll the bike, so the clutch is still engaged. I might got back out later today and try getting it right.

BIGKEVIN wrote:

While I tried to adjust the clutch earlier today and now it is even worse. I took the clutch cover off and loosed the bolt hold the screw in place. Loosed the screw and then screwed it back in until it got tight and then unscrewed it another 1/2 turn and tighten the nut. I also tried adjusting the center clutch cable. Now when I start the bike and put it in gear, it lurches forward and then shuts off. When the bike off, if I pull the clutch in, I can not roll the bike, so the clutch is still engaged. I might got back out later today and try getting it right.

Clutch push rod adjustment procedure seems to have been correctly performed.

At the handlebar lever, there should be minimal free play when squeezing the lever before feeling the clutch plates being separated.
Excessive free play limits potential separation of the plates.

When squeezing the clutch lever from beginning position until against the handlebar grip, is pressure felt indicating that the clutch plates are separating?

What type and weight oil is being used, and is it fresh?

Is it known whether or not the clutch plates have even been replaced? And if so, were oem Kawasaki plates fitted, or some aftermarket brand?

How many miles on the existing plates?

If oil condition or plate wear isn't a suspected issue, could try the rolling first gear engagement method, ride until engine attains full normal operating temperature.
Then come to stop, shut off engine, re-start engine in neutral, and shift into first.
Is the clunk eliminated or reduced? Or same as before?

Could be wrong, but thinking that well maintained frequently ridden bikes, such as daily riders, have less severe sticky clutch problems.

Good Fortune!

Would also assure that the sprocket cover screws are snug enough to prevent the cover from pulling away from the engine as the handlebar clutch lever is being squeezed.

A missing or stripped screw or stripped female threads may prevent sufficient tightening of the cover.

Sometimes, a screw has been snapped off inside the case, and the case replaced with the screw missing.

A damaged or cracked sprocket cover may sometimes expand enough to prevent full movement of the push rod when the handle bar clutch lever is being squeezed.

Good Fortune!

I just got the bike about 2 or 3 months ago. I have not changed and oil yet because I was working on getting it to idle correctly. I have gotten that problem fixed. I will probably change the oil tomorrow. If the bike is low on oil, that could cause problems with the clutch ?

When pulling the clutch in, there is tension on the lever until it hits the bars.

The weight and how old the oil is I don't know. Will be changing it tomorrow.

If the clutch plates have been changed and if they are Kawasaki plates or another brand is also unknown.

How do you change the oil on this bike ? On the other 2 bikes that I had, the oil filter was visable. Where is the oil drain plug and how many are there. Where is the filter located ? I don't see it in the Haynes manual.

When looking under the engine, you will see a round cover with fins, this holds the oil filter. The bolt next to it is the oil drain bolt. Both should take the same size metric socket.Have a new filter, oil, and oil filter gasket on hand before changing.

When I change my bikes oil, I use a long 1/2" breaker bar with the correct socket.

If you have an after market exhaust system, it might allow you to change the oil without dropping the exhaust, other wise get 4 new exhaust port gaskets as old ones will leak if re-used.

I have an old Kerker on mine with a "S" bend allowing oil changes without removing the exhaust. I put Aluminum foil on the areas that oil might leak and then drain the oil.