Clutch issue/Checking Timing

I just purchased a 1976 KZ900 about 2 months ago. This is my first old school bike. Got it to idle right due to the help from the carb section. Now I need help with a couple of other things. When the bike is running and it is put into first gear, the bike either lurches forward or cuts out. When it doesn't cut out, you can feel it pulling forward. Seems like the clutch needs to be adjusted, but I dont know how to do it. Can someone help me with this ? Also, how do you check the timing on this bike ?

This procedure covers clutch cable replacement and clutch adjustment. Your bike's clutch adjustment may be similar:

Clutch Cable Replacement On some Kawasaki Motorcycles

1.About mid way down the clutch cable is an adjuster; shorten the cable as much as possible.

2.Remove the small cover on the left side of the sprocket cover and loosen up the lock nut on the clutch throw out mechanism.

3.Remove the shifter lever; the sprocket cover, and lay the cover on some rags or news papers.

4.Have on hand a small cotter pin that will be needed to prevent the new clutch cable from coming out of the throw out mechanism.

5.At the left handlebar turn in the slack adjusters for the clutch cable and then take out the pivot bolt.

6.New clutch cables may or may not have lubrication; now's the time to either hang the new cable up overnight so heavy oil can flow through it or buy a cable luber kit with the special clamp and can of spray lube.

7.Attach the cable to the cover's throw out mechanism and secure it with a new cotter pin.

8. While you're in there, check the wiring from the alternator(YELLOW WIRES, or any wires from the alternator), remove the excess chain lube from the clutch push rod and check the wire routing that goes above the engine sprocket.

9. Check the lock washer for cracks on the engine sprocket and any "Hooking" of the sprocket teeth.

10 Route the clutch cable the same way the old one was and connect the cable to the clutch lever; and the pivot bolt gets re-installed.

11.Carefully install the sprocket cover, making sure the push rod is engaged and then tighten up the cover.

12.Adjusting the clutch play and cable tension is real easy; using a flat bladed screwdriver, turn the slotted screw clockwise(to the right) until it becomes hard to turn; then turn it counterclockwise(to the left) 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut.

13.The mid way cable adjuster and lever slack adjuster may need to be adjusted for correct cable slack.

14.My factory shop manual lists 2-3mm as the correct play in the lever after the cable has been properly tensioned.

15.Re-install the covers, and shifter lever, start the engine to check the shifting action.

16.These engines have a shifting lock out to prevent moving in any gear higher than second unless the engine is running and proper shifting is done.

Does your bike have ignition points? Look inside a cover on the right side of the crankshaft(as you sit on the seat) if you have points,two sets will be seen,if the bike has been converted to electronic ignition it's easier to adjust and has longer life.

If points are there, a new set can probably be ordered from www.z1enterprises.com This website should have in the file base information about setting point gap and dwell.

MFolks, thanks for the clutch info. I'll try that tomorrow. The bike does have ignition points. The points have already be set.

Also check your cable for broken strands at the handle and the actuater while your at it.lf the adjustment issue continues check the cluth basket side for a loose nut and be sure that the washer is put on correctly as it wll cause the nut to loosen.I had to chase that issue as well one day so go ahead and jump in there!

Edit to add:Pick up a service manual for your model off Ebay or someplace for around $20 it will be money well spent I promise!

I'll check on this clutch issue tomorrow. Any help on checking the timing ?

x2 on getting a manual.....it will answer a lot of questions....not that we dont mind helping out....

I have a Haynes manual already. I'll read up again on the clutch adjustment again and check the things mentioned earlier.

Clutch push rod adjustment -- Need and Purpose
[This is a 1 minute job from start to finish, maybe 2 minutes the first time.]

The FSM covering Z1 and KZ900 includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch push rod adjustment at 2000 mile (3000 km) intervals and explains the need therefor in separate text, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Besides cable stretch, clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment, with a decrease in push rod play. Due to this wear, the push rod gradually moves closer to the clutch release lever (at the lower end of the clutch cable) until it touches the adjusting screw. When the rod is touching the screw and therefore has no play, the clutch will not engage fully and clutch slippage will occur. Note that the clutch push rod does not necessarily have play just because the clutch hand lever has play, and so hand lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.


The FSM covering '77-'79 KZ1000's includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch adjustment at 5000 km intervals, and explains the need therefor in slightly different language, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment. This wear causes the play between the push rod and the adjusting screw to gradually diminish until the push rod touches the adjusting screw. When this play is lost, the clutch will not engage fully, causing the clutch to slip.
NOTE: Even though the proper amount of play exists at the clutch lever, clutch lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.

---

end of excerpt

---

Related matter regarding clutch slippage:

While the clutch may indeed be worn out with plates needing replacement, it isn't uncommon to overlook or be unaware of the clutch pushrod adjustment feature, especially without a manual. It is worrisome to see anyone of unknown experience, without a manual or failing to consult a manual, proceed with clutch disassembly and plate replacement, without first being aware of and considering the clutch pushrod adjustment.

Where both (1) clutch cable slack adjustment is perfect, and (2) clutch pushrod adjustment is perfect, and the clutch still slips, suspicion is certainly toward the plates being worn and needing replacement. But other things can also cause slippage, even with proper adjustments and good plates, such as glazed plates or improper oil being used in the crankcase.

Good Fortune!

[Click on image to enlarge view.]

Heavy oil in cold weather will greatly contribute to the clutch dragging on start up.

Before you start the bike, put in 1st gear, hold the clutch lever in and rock the bike forward to break he plates free... then warm up the bike.

While it's warming up, work the clutch lever a bit.

Go ahead and adjust it but it might not cure the problem. In fact, it probably won't

BIGKEVIN wrote:

... Any help on checking the timing ?

For reference:

[Click on image to enlarge view.]