Clutch issue/Checking Timing

BIGKEVIN wrote:

I just measured all 10 of the clutch disks and none of them meet the minimum of 1.27". I don't know what the previous owner did, but I am wondering if he ordered clutch disk and they were machined thinner so more disks were installed. I have order the disks from Z1 and they should be here in a couple of days.

I just measured all 10 of the clutch disks and none of them meet the minimum of 1.27"

That's likely a typo, but to confirm, the 1.27" is the clutch spring free length.

While anything's possible, am doubtful about existing smooth steel plates being stock plates having been machined thinner.

Good Fortune!

I meant the friction plates and it was a typo. I measured them and had 2 other people measure them and we all came up with a thickness of about .125 of an inch. The plates I ordered from Z1 are supposed to arrive tomorrow. Is it necessary to soak them disks in oil before installing them ? If so, how long should they soak ?

just wet them down good (oil)
both friction and metal plates
springs?
all this work and no new springs would be a shame.
this part is often over looked and them poor bitches are always under tension.

this a major part of what makes the bike go forward

I did order new springs also. While I am in there doing the clutch, I might as well do the springs also.

Well I got my new disks and springs today and installed them. Bad news, still the same. Unable to move the bike with the clutch pulled in and the bike in gear. How much is the clutch adjustment screw supposed to move then the clutch is pulled in ? I tried adjusting the clutch with the middle adjustment, but still no good. When I pull the clutch in while watching the adjustment scew, it moves very little.

did you adjust the push-rod as clockwise till tight then counter clockwise 1/4 of a turn and tighten the lock nut

adjust your cable slack?

final adjustment at star wheel?

start bike up and hold front brake on. i would hate to see you slam in to the garage wall.....hehehe put the bike in gear and ride it?

let us know what the hell is up on this?

these guys gave you enough info to rebuild the damn bike,but if dont have a MANUAL shame on you!

The Manual is the Holy Bible to bike Fixing buy one!
sorry to be smart ass,but when people refuse to buy the BOOK it pisses me off.

good luck on your bike

I have a Haynes manaul. After installing the clutches, I turned the adjusting screw until it tightened and then turnd it counterclock wise a 1/2 turn or so and tightened up the nut. I tried adjusting the cable at the mid point and at the lever. No matter how I adjust it, the clutch adjusting screw only moves a tiny bit. How much is it supposed to move ?

BIGKEVIN wrote:

...turned the adjusting screw until it tightened and then turnd it counterclock wise a 1/2 turn or so and tightened up the nut. I tried adjusting the cable at the mid point and at the lever. No matter how I adjust it, the clutch adjusting screw only moves a tiny bit. How much is it supposed to move ?

Would try with 1/4" gap.

Minimize free play of inner cable inside sheath (by adjustments at handlebar and mid-sheath).

When watching the screw while working the handlebar clutch lever, it's normal that the screw doesn't seem to be moving very much.

Good Fortune!

What do you mean by 1/4 inch gap ? Are you talking about turning the screw out 1/4 turn instead of a 1/2 turn ?

Speaking of things barely moving when they should not, would watch the cover itself for any movement whatever (instead of the adjustment screw) while working the handlebar clutch lever, to positively confirm that:

Sprocket cover isn't pulling away from the engine as the handlebar clutch lever is being squeezed;

All sprocket cover screws are fitted and snugly tightened;

That male threads on screws are good;

That all female threads inside case are intact and not stripped;

Sprocket cover isn't damaged or cracked.

Good Fortune!

BIGKEVIN wrote:

What do you mean by 1/4 inch gap ? Are you talking about turning the screw out 1/4 turn instead of a 1/2 turn ?

Yes.

Patton wrote:

BIGKEVIN wrote:

What do you mean by 1/4 inch gap ? Are you talking about turning the screw out 1/4 turn instead of a 1/2 turn ?

Yes.

And if all else fails, might be desperate enough at this point to briefly test for effect with zero gap.

As known, the gap is to assure full engagement (closure of the plates) and thereby avoid slippage while riding.

Good Fortune!