Clutch issue/Checking Timing

I think that there maybe another item that may be overlooked here. if the clutch release mechanism (parts 3&5)
in pattons diagram are not meshed in the right position I dont think any amount of adjustment will change anything IMO
Good Luck

Excessive slop in the clutch lever can also reduce length of pull afforded by the inner cable.

Such slop may be caused by wear on the bolt and/or hole in the lever.

Well I reset the clutch adjustment again and still the same. I took the clutch push rod out again and checked it to make sure that it was straight, which it was. Put the rod back in and adjusted the clutch cable again and finally got the adjustment right, but now when I let the clutch completly out, the bike does not go forward. I was told when I changed the oil that I should add some Rislone compression repair with ring seal, which I did. That Rislone is very slick. Would adding it to the oil now cause the clutches to slip ?

I meant to say did adding it to the oil cause the clutch to slip now ?

Imo, the ongoing clutch problems in this instance are not oil related.

If interpreting correctly, the original failure to sufficiently disengage has now become a failure to adequately engage.

Am thinking continuing issues with assembly and/or adjustment, and not oil related.

Good Fortune!

OK, I'll continue to work on the adjustments. Thanks.

I went through the process of adjusting the clutch again. I am able to get clutch to work when you first start letting the clutch out, but then nothing. I rode it up and down the street a couple of times and it appears to be working correctly until you get to about 3000 rpm and then it stops accelerating. I tried with the clutch adjust screw all the way in, 1/4 and 1/2 turn out with no change. The mid way cable is almost all the way apart, meaning that the screw between the 2 is very long. Do anyone have any suggestions ?

BIGKEVIN wrote:

I went through the process of adjusting the clutch again. I am able to get clutch to work when you first start letting the clutch out, but then nothing. I rode it up and down the street a couple of times and it appears to be working correctly until you get to about 3000 rpm and then it stops accelerating. I tried with the clutch adjust screw all the way in, 1/4 and 1/2 turn out with no change. The mid way cable is almost all the way apart, meaning that the screw between the 2 is very long. Do anyone have any suggestions ?

Perhaps time to install a brand new clutch cable.
They are inexpensive.
Whether oem length is best will depend on what handlebars are fitted.
Stock LTD handlebars would require a stock cable.
If stock bars are fitted, just order then stock cable.

If non-stock (i.e., shorter) bars are fitted, would give Z1E a call to determine best length.
Super bike bars for example might do better with a Z1R clutch cable.
It's a matter of not having too much extra cable flopping in the wind.

Although I doubt the cable is the sole culprit in this particular situation, a new cable will at least remove any cable issue as possible cause of the existing clutch issues.
And it's worrisome about the middle adjuster being so far extended.

Good Fortune!

Kev, if not already done, follow the link and download the Z1 OEM service manual... 99% the same as the 1976 KZ900 (carbs different 28mm vs 26mm)...

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=434&Itemid=108

I have the exact same KZ as yours... With that said here's the key in dialing in the clutch for I had similar adjustment issues with the original and newly replaced cable, plates (steel and friction) & springs....

Follow the procedure exactly up to the point where you turn in to suddenly hard and out 1/4 turn on the side case push rod adjusting/locking screw...

1) Handle bar clutch perch, turn in knurled adjusting knob all the way in then back out 1 turn....

2) Mid adjusters, close them up fully where cable slack is maximum.

3) Side cover... Loosen adjusting lever lock nut.

4) Turn adjusting screw CCW a couple of turns (3-4)...

5) Pull in clutch lever a couple times to unbind anything in the cable... You should feel no resistance.

At this point of cable slackness... Spray some cable lube silicon spray whatever down the inner cable....

Now here's the biggest trick of it.... !!!!
The manual states turn in adjusting screw until it becomes suddenly hard (due to contact)... STOP!!!

This is where the screw up is (miss giving info)....

Thanks to Plummy , here's the trick....

Slowly turn the adjusting screw CW just until you feel it barely makes contact with the push rod... And I do mean barely makes contact...

6) Back out 1/4 turn and while holding the adjusting screw in position, lock down the lock nut.

Now follow the rest of the FSM procedure for mid cable adjustment and clutch perch adjustments...

Pull in the clutch a few times... Seem likes it's binding or over hard to pull in?

Everything in place, all good...
Now warm the engine up..

While holding the front brake in... Pull in and hold the clutch lever and pop her into 1st...
She'll jump a tad... expected.

Still holding the clutch in... In slowly releasing the front brake, does the bike move forward?

If yes, this informs you the plates are still grabbing...
More adjustments required. Place in neutral and back adjuster/lock screw out another 1/8h turn and repeat.

If no, then slowly release clutch lever and note where the plates start grabbing and the bike starts moving forward...

NOTE: We all have different preferences here but 1/2 way from full pull in to full release is normal..

All good, good for a ride...
With the above adjustments, while ridding, you find she still slips @ 3Krpm... Turn in the perch adjusting knob 1 full turn at a time.... This gives increased cable slack thus allowing the plates to grab...

EDIT: Of course all pending of springs to spec otherwise... Poo-Poo....

Now, if she still does weirdness @ 3k rpm + and you can't adjust out of it, start looking elsewhere for the problem...

Hope this helps...

OMR

Just in case....

I will try that adjustment tomorrow. I did notice yesterday that the cable from the level to the mid point adjustment point has been burned. I think that it may have been making contact with the header.

BIGKEVIN wrote:

...cable from the level to the mid point adjustment point has been burned. I think that it may have been making contact with the header.

A protective clutch cable clip is designed to hold the cable away from the exhaust header.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=3213