KZ1K'S ENGINE PROJECT

see the bolts in this photo :laugh:

"thanks for ruining my fun dave.
i was looking forward to a whole new thread."...

Sorry mi amigo but this young man is having enough difficulties and we don't need another 12 pages (Adams post) on how to get the damn thing off.... :blink: :laugh:

Keep at it Joe... Splitting the cases is for more than just getting the gasket pieces out of the bottom end...
You'll want to go over all the gears looking for rounded/broken teeth...

You'll want to look at the transmission shift forks insuring they're not bent... Look at the shift drum track landings, rounded or look new etc...

While you have the cases split, other then cleaning you'll want to replace ALL O-rings and Seals....

And since open new endless CAM chain no doubt....

Check the bearings for smooth roll, possibly replace.

Again, the manual (Z1 OEM link) provides quite a bit to look for and MEASURE.... The manual even provides measurements to take for rod play....

Also a good time to check your oil pump play....

Keep at it, take your time, and go over everything step by step.... Study/analyze how all the gears work in unison manual gives a good write up on this... Analyze how the tranny gears work.... Again, manual informs you of 1st through 5th gear operations...

While opened, check clutch basket, teeth broken, sure you can replace plates & springs etc now or later but issues with basket, do it now...

Get yourself a ft/pound and inch/pounds Torque wrench, some metric sockets and wrenches, etc.... Insure everything in the manual is torqued to spec....

This is an important part of a rebuild where attention to detail is crucial.... you only want to do this once where having to go back in would suck....

If replacing the head studs (APE heavy duty) then measure and record each before removing for you'll notice they're at different heights...

And as you're doing, take images before ripping apart so you know how everything goes back in....

everything looks great. no broken teeth. i am not replacing the head studs. i have been taking pics....thanks for the advice......joe

Make sure to check the springs on the back side of the clutch basket near the hub. I found a broken spring in mine.

don't forget the new gaskets for the oil pump.
you cannot reuse them.

and like it has been said, upgrade the clutch basket now since you can only get it out with the cases split. and since the thing is apart a one piece cam chain is a must.

comming along well with good pictures to boot.
this is a good thread for anyone thinking of doing this.
kudos to everyone walking him through this.

larrycavan wrote:

see the bolts in this photo :laugh:

look in the picture i posted ya ol grumpy elephant trainer! :laugh:

kawsakiman wrote:

don't forget the new gaskets for the oil pump.
you cannot reuse them.

and like it has been said, upgrade the clutch basket now since you can only get it out with the cases split. and since the thing is apart a one piece cam chain is a must.

comming along well with good pictures to boot.
this is a good thread for anyone thinking of doing this.
kudos to everyone walking him through this.

better get a bigger box! :woohoo:

testarossa wrote:

Make sure to check the springs on the back side of the clutch basket near the hub. I found a broken spring in mine.

ill go look thanks. where are those springs behind the clutch cover plate? whats a clutch basket go for?

You will probly want to remove the studs at least, to make for MUCH easier cleaning/prep for base gasket.

Clutch hubs are expensive, and not required to replace unless damaged.

Carefull inspection of everything in the bottom end according to the manual specs should take you several hours, and will require some specific tools like feeler gauges, etc.

Use the manual.


Do it, just DO IT!

TeK9iNe wrote:

You will probly want to remove the studs at least, to make for MUCH easier cleaning/prep for base gasket.

Clutch hubs are expensive, and not required to replace unless damaged.

Carefull inspection of everything in the bottom end according to the manual specs should take you several hours, and will require some specific tools like feeler gauges, etc.

Use the manual.

Do it, just DO IT!

ok, my manual wont be here for 2 weeks. can i remove all the inards then clean the cases, then go over everything in the manual?

yep just get everything out of there then take the bare cases,oil pan,cylinder and bare head to the car wash and let er rip! :laugh:
no need to remove the studs unless you plan to replace them

I don't know what a basket goes for, but APE sells a kit with new springs, and new rivets for $65. They give you heavier springs and larger rivets in the kit. That fixed me up.

Those springs are at the back of the clutch basket. Remove the five bolts with springs and take off the cover plated. Next pull your friction plates and steels. There should be a large nut in the middle of the clutch hub. You'll need an impact to get that one off, it's tight. Once you pull the nut, the basket will fall off of the input shaft. You'll see 'em on the back side. Just like the hub springs on the flywheel of a car manual transmission.