KZ1K'S MOTOR

kz1k wrote:

what are the slots for in the socket or pipe? to get the keepers out? and if i use 1" pipe i can just tack weld it to the c clamp?

The're there to gain access to the keepers. mostly for installation, but helps with dissassembly too. I would think you could tack weld it to the clamp should work just fine, just so long as its not going to snap off when you compress the valve spring.

650ed wrote:

kz1k wrote:

......

What happened to the chain? Ed

LOL I thought the same thing but if you look closely its doubled up!!

What is that on the #3 piston? looks like a dent, or burn or something?

elfmagic17 wrote:

650ed wrote:

kz1k wrote:

......

What happened to the chain? Ed

LOL I thought the same thing but if you look closely its doubled up!!

What is that on the #3 piston? looks like a dent, or burn or something?

its smooth, i ran my finger over it.

getting it apart is easy take a 3/4" deep socket and an extension youre not partial to.
stick the socket on top of the retainer and smack the extension with a hammer ,make sure to get all the split keepers 2 on each valve.
once you push the valve out of the head use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the seal,carefull not to gouge the guides.
once the seals are out you can flip the head over and bottem retainers can come out.

PLUMMEN wrote:

getting it apart is easy take a 3/4" deep socket and an extension youre not partial to.
stick the socket on top of the retainer and smack the extension with a hammer ,make sure to get all the split keepers 2 on each valve.
once you push the valve out of the head use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the seal,carefull not to gouge the guides.
once the seals are out you can flip the head over and bottem retainers can come out.

i take it this is a temperary way to remove my bottom retainers..aka as valves? i will need a aacual tool to get them back in with right?

i friend of mine, not part of kzr...told me not to remove the valves. he said i can tell if they are bent or not by looking and seeing of they are seated. he said if they were bent light would shine through. he said getting them back in is torture and loosing keepers is normal.

is he full of crap or what?

Sounds right to me. The keepers are difficult to reinstall for the inexperienced (myself included) or the fat fingered (myself included). The flashlight idea would work, or you could spray WD-40 or some other oil/solvent into the intakes and exhaust and see if it leaks into the "hemi" combustion area.

DoubleDub wrote:

Sounds right to me. The keepers are difficult to reinstall for the inexperienced (myself included) or the fat fingered (myself included). The flashlight idea would work, or you could spray WD-40 or some other oil/solvent into the intakes and exhaust and see if it leaks into the "hemi" combustion area.

you you suggest not removing the valves? not even the surface rusted 1?

No, they will likely need to be removed. I like doing as much as a I can myself, but without the right tools a valve job is probably better left to a professional. I know, I didn't like hearing that either the first time.

That's not saying you can't do it - there are those on this forum who have done them on their own, but it would have been a costly learning curve for me.

For reference, and in no particular order, these are places that are forum sponsors that do valve jobs, hope I didn't miss anyone:

APE (kzzone.com)
Larry Cavanaugh ( www.flowbenchtech.com/porting/CRH/ )
Pitstop Performance ( www.pitstopperformance.com/ )

I like this list of what all is involved in a valve job posted on the Pitstop page (just a good list of what's involved):

Disassemble head.
Clean all parts.
Bead blast eight valves.
Bead blast combustion chambers and valve guides.
Heat head and remove valve guides without causing subsequent damage to head.
Install new bronze valve guides.
Ream new valve guides to match valves.
Resurface valves using Kwik Way valve resurfacing machine.
Grind three angle valve seat to maximize valve potential
using Kwik Way valve seat grinder.
Lap valves into newly ground seats.
Trim valve stem length to match amount of change.
Assemble head with new Viton valve seals.
Install camshafts one at a time.
Adjust shim size to set clearance within Kawasaki specifications.

Just noticed you are in Florida, too. Pitstop is local to you...not sure what part of FL you are in.

Pit Stop Performance
3213 Paisley Circle
Orlando, Florida 32817

Pitstop is in florida too...... I know money is tight, but your not likely to get her running without spending a few bucks

porchev914 wrote:

Pitstop is in florida too...... I know money is tight, but your not likely to get her running without spending a few bucks

Beat you to it :laugh: