KZ1K'S MOTOR

I'm pretty sure what Ed's trying to say is that the electrical system on these bikes (even though it is 12v) isn't built to handle the amperage of a truck/car battery/alternator system.

Be very careful hooking up that kind of power to these bikes, in fact, I would get a 12v/2a charger instead.

As before...Harbor Freight is your friend

12v 2/6amp charger: www.harborfreight.com/2-6-amp-6-12-volt-...y-charger-45005.html

Oh, and if you look around, there are almost always 20% off coupons available for Harbor Freight.

DoubleDub wrote:

I'm pretty sure what Ed's trying to say is that the electrical system on these bikes (even though it is 12v) isn't built to handle the amperage of a truck/car battery/alternator system.

Be very careful hooking up that kind of power to these bikes, in fact, I would get a 12v/2a charger instead.

As before...Harbor Freight is your friend

12v 2/6amp charger: www.harborfreight.com/2-6-amp-6-12-volt-...y-charger-45005.html

Oh, and if you look around, there are almost always 20% off coupons available for Harbor Freight.

awesome...thanks:woohoo: . here goes the spending spree..:dry:

see if the parts store has a leak down detector they will rent out

kz1k wrote:

DoubleDub wrote:

I'm pretty sure what Ed's trying to say is that the electrical system on these bikes (even though it is 12v) isn't built to handle the amperage of a truck/car battery/alternator system.

Be very careful hooking up that kind of power to these bikes, in fact, I would get a 12v/2a charger instead.

As before...Harbor Freight is your friend

12v 2/6amp charger: www.harborfreight.com/2-6-amp-6-12-volt-...y-charger-45005.html

Oh, and if you look around, there are almost always 20% off coupons available for Harbor Freight.

awesome...thanks:woohoo: . here goes the spending spree..:dry:

Spending spree? You haven't even done anything yet!!! lol wait till you open the engine up

i asked...no, i might try some other places.PLUMMEN wrote:

see if the parts store has a leak down detector they will rent out

OK no doubt that a Leak Down Tester will be the best, but it will just show you that you have something like 80% or so leakage. You will still need to find out where the worst of the compression loss is, just use your air compressor. Turn the motor to first line up the #1 piston to the top of its stroke, there are marks on the timing advancer that will line up, under the cover on the right hand side of the engine, 2 screws about 4" in diameter. So these marks will line up while the piston is up, to confirm if it is the Firing Position and not the overlap, where both valves would be open instead of closed, while turning keep a finger over the plug hole. You should feel the pressure building, Also since you Had the valve cover off you should be able to see that the cam lobes are not facing downward, but outward instead, then line up the marks. Once that is done, and the mark is on "T" this is TDC Top Dead Center. Now if you scored the Feeler gauges check the valve clearance, or just see if you can rotate the shim/ lifter assy with your fingers to see if it is loose or tight. Next use your compressed air, with a rubber tipped blow gun, pressure the cylinder. You may find a friend to help, then listen to the exhaust, then the Intake, then remove the oil filler cap and listen there. Now add some, 1 teaspoon of , oil to the cylinder and repeat. Then move on to the next in the firing order, 1243, 1 on the left to 4 on the right, turning the crankshaft by hand with the 17mm nut at the advancer 180 degrees each time. Keep going till all 4 are done, dry and wet. You will not get a gauge reading but you will find out where the majority is leaking. Then you will know, if it sounds like a lot of air is escaping from intake/ exhaust/ rings.

kz1k wrote:

when i turn the motor bu kicking the bike i hear air comming from the carbs. i put my hand over them and can feel the air comming out. arent they sopposed to suck air in, not blow air out?

Air being exhausted through the carbs tells me that you have a valve clearance or cam timing issue. No leakdown tester necessary, yet. I would check the cam timing per the service manual first. Then check valve clearances. You are spinning your wheels until you verify those two things.

Since no one has X Ray glasses and we are guessing, I'll take two guesses.

I do not believe you would have tight valves on four cylinders at once. I do not believe you would have bad rings on four cylinders at once.

1) However I do believe you could have cam timing issues(past or present). This would account for the low compression.

2) Four sets of slightly bent valves. This can happen from improper cam timing or a broken center pin on the crank.

Who knows? We took an engine(Z1) a part last year, and it had a 410 shot gun shell, inside the cylinder. Crazy stuff has been known to happen.

ok, so ill check the timing, and then my valve clearance. time to find the timing section in my online manual.

hi guys. i only have the online pdf manual right now. i found where the valve clearence page is, but i cant find the timing info. anyone gatta link, or maybe you can tell me where to look? thanks joe.

i read somewhere you need to count the links or something?

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