KZ1K'S MOTOR

testarossa wrote:

Make sure that your battery is fully charged, and no those feeler gauges are too big. You need the set that usually goes down to 0.0015" thickness. If that set only goes down to 0.010" it's no good for checking valve clearances.

in inches it goes down to .010. in metric it goes down to .254. where can i get one with guages that small? might have to borrow one from dad, but his are for chevy big block motors. not sure if there the right sizes. lemme know where i can get a cheap feeler guage for this baby.

btw my battery is dead in my bike....i need to buy a charger. so i used jumper cables from my truck running, to the bikes battery and cables.

Any compression gauge should hold the highest reading attained. If the gauge you rented doesn't do that, something may be wrong.

If I may ask, what exactly are you refering to when you ask "should I put the top of the engine back together for the compression test"? What top end parts were removed?

porchev914 wrote:

Any compression gauge should hold the highest reading attained. If the gauge you rented doesn't do that, something may be wrong.

If I may ask, what exactly are you refering to when you ask "should I put the top of the engine back together for the compression test"? What top end parts were removed?

i was refering to the top plate on the motor. i replaced it before the comp test anyway.

either the guage is fked up, or i am not holding any compression.

If/when you get into taking this motor apart take a gander at my thread from last winter. I knew nothing (and apparently still don't lol) about motorcycle engines and did a good amouont of top end work that got the bike running great. You might learn a few things and I think I likely asked many questions you will soon be asking.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...w&catid=11&id=325522

If you have valve clearance and all your comps are in the under 60 PSI, I would wager you need a valve job. You could also have collapsed or rusted rings if the engine sat for a long time.

thanks 9am, ill check it out in more detail later. i need to know what to do next...i dont want to remove something i either dont have to, or remove something i should have marked. where is everyone today....lol joe

i called a automotive shop today. my brother took his brobco heads there once and they came back brand new looking. he quoted me 165 for a valve job. and 20 bucks a hole to bore, which i wont be doing. not sure if i should even consider having him do it, or do it myself and save some $.

I think you would be better off having your work done at a bike specific shop if you are going to pay somebody, but if you are willing to work and read ALOT and make mistakes you can do it yourself. Have you done a valve lash adjustment? You could have such low compression if your valves are not closing properly. As mentioned, get a set of feeler gauges that are appropriate for your bike, and check the valves. The instrustions for that are in your manual (which I assume you have). If you don't have a manual then get one, if you have one then check your valves. That is what to do next, then when you have your valves adjusted and still have poor comp then you can start looking into taking the head off and replacing stuff.

Start small

well i used the compression meter on my truck. it read 150 then dropped to 0 imediatly, just like the bike did, but it was 50 rather than 150. so the meter reads compression, just does not hold it on the guage. so i was thinking if maybe i could get the bike running the way it sits it may reseat the seals and i may get compression back. and also pour some mystery oil onto where the plugs go. should i try this before i start taking shit apart?

if it read then dropped your gauge is faulty.

put a little oil in the cylinders and record your numbers again.

kawsakiman wrote:

if it read then dropped your gauge is faulty.

put a little oil in the cylinders and record your numbers again.

any oil?

On the compression gauge, where it screws into the plug hole, look at the center of the end. There should be a schradder valve, like a tire valve stem has, and it is either junked up with carbon or missing. If you have a tool for removing these, they come with many inner tubes/ tires/ look like a valve stem cap with a tall end and a cut between at the top. Remove it and clean it or install another, 1 with the white Teflon type of seat in the little valve mechanism. Take it back to where you rented it and have them fix it.
While you here check the Timing chain to make sure the cam shafts are in "Time" with the Crankshaft, and valve clearances. Whichever manual you're using will have a step by step to do this with pictures.