KZ1K'S MOTOR

ok so at tdc this is where my #1 lobes are facing foward and back horizontal. and this is where my cam sprocket lies. is it correct?

this is the out sproket...(front)

the last pic is the in..(rear) sprocket.

cams lobes and sprockets are exactly like this. is it correct? kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...d=2&id=312347#312366

ill have the feeler guages this evening. i was told to start with the thinest guage, then work my way up and write down each distance between the cam lobe, and the bucket shim.

i am learning terminology...yipeeeeee

ok, all the shims and buckets spin when the lobes are facing 180 degrees away. i still need to measure the gap later right?

whats next?

It would be nice to know for sure that your timing-chain is set on the sprockets correctly,as far as the 28 pin count goes.
You may no know what I'm talking about but that should be the first thing established so it can be ruled out that the chain is not out by a pin(chain-pin) or more,which would throw your cam-timing out of whack.
Joe,did you say you got a manual or even an online manual for reference to that topic?

Sandy wrote:

It would be nice to know for sure that your timing-chain is set on the sprockets correctly,as far as the 28 pin count goes.
You may no know what I'm talking about but that should be the first thing established so it can be ruled out that the chain is not out by a pin(chain-pin) or more,which would throw your cam-timing out of whack.
Joe,did you say you got a manual or even an online manual for reference to that topic?

i have a pdf manual, but i couldnt find anything decriptive on the exact subject.

as stated earlier, when i am on the correct tdc,(lobes on #1 are horizontal, facing opposite directions,) my in sprocket's 28 is dead top center.

this should conclude my timing chain is ok? also i spun each shim and bucket with my finger. i will eventually guage the gap.

you guys and...gals think i could have 4 bent valves?

seeing i dont have a acual manual in front of me all the time yet!, how do you remove the head and timing chain, and all?

if the lobes are 180 degrees away and the bucket spin the timing doesn't matter at this point.the valves are leaking compression passed them. i would pull the head and worry about timing when i had made sure the head and valves were not bent and ready to be put back.thats my .02,

leon

531blackbanshee wrote:

if the lobes are 180 degrees away and the bucket spin the timing doesn't matter at this point.the valves are leaking compression passed them. i would pull the head and worry about timing when i had made sure the head and valves were not bent and ready to be put back.thats my .02,

leon

is there anything i need to take caution with?besides putting a towel over the timing chain hole to catch anything from falling into the bottom?

does the chain have to be seperated? theres a link on there somewhere? or can i leave the chain?

remove all four cam caps,remove the center idler block(rag stuffed in between timing chain tunnel to keep crap out)tie the chain up with something so it can't fall down the tunnel.slip the cams out from under the chain and set aside.pull all six nuts off the studs,remove the 10mm headed bolts on each end of the head.take a breath.the head should be ready to remove,it is probably stuck on there pretty good.don't pry on the fins,they brake easy.a soft faced mallet or wood block can be used to knock it loose by striking the tunnel boss.after you see it move you should be able to rock it around and lift it off.don't turn it upside down yet as the buckets and shims will fall out.an egg carton is nice to use to number and put the buckets and shims in to keep track of the valve they came off from.after you remove the buckets and shims from the head turn it over and take a picture of the valves and combustion chambers and show us what you see.

leon

leave the chain whole.