KZ1K'S MOTOR

Personally, were it my bike, I would rather have the valve job done. Just because the valves are new doesn't mean the guides are good or that the seat surface and valve surface mate well providing a good seal.

Valve wear would also be a concern of mine depending on how many miles are on the head. The old valves and head would wear together keeping a fairly uniform surface when they mate, but putting new valves in there they will have different angles/surfaces when they mate causing excess wear somewhere...and at ~$20 a pop for valves, plus the gasket, time and headache....

At least this is how I understand things. Please, someone correct me if I am off base.

so all i need is a gasket set and rings?

Defiantly correct, a machine shop should be contracted to a valve job, the tools are not cost effective for a 1 time job. This is best done by experienced people.
A "Clean up" and lapping may be performed if things are not very worn/ pitted/ seat face to wide/ valve margin ok/ etc.
Best to bite the bullet and take the head to a shop, and have it done, then you can at least bolt that part on with confidence.

You can ask around for a local machine shop to work on the head or these guy's:

www.aperaceparts.com
www.bore-tech.com
www.flowbenchtech.com (Cavenaugh Racing Heads)
www.fastbygast.com
www.grccranks.com
www.schnitzracing.com
www.valleyspeed.ca/services.html
racetoolz.com/
www.carolinacycle.net/index.php?option=c...ex&Itemid=3&catID=84
www.maxrpms.net/shop/

kz1k wrote:

so all i need is a gasket set and rings?

You need to inspect all of it before you can say that.
Look at the cam chain and guides real close, these eat Idlers, stretch chains break guides. There will be a measurement for the chain, held taunt, a distance at a certain # of pins. You need a presision measuring caliper for this. I don't have the manual for the length, mines the newer style.
So have you pulled the cylinder block off of the engine yet?

Motor Head wrote:

kz1k wrote:

so all i need is a gasket set and rings?

You need to inspect all of it before you can say that.
Look at the cam chain and guides real close, these eat Idlers, stretch chains break guides. There will be a measurement for the chain, held taunt, a distance at a certain # of pins. You need a presision measuring caliper for this. I don't have the manual for the length, mines the newer style.
So have you pulled the cylinder block off of the engine yet?

Usually you can see the wear marks on the valve stem inside the port when the valve is at the full open point. (with the valve springs off) slide the valve out to full open, wiggle the valve side to side, if you can feel the play it's probably worn too much to lap the valves i'm sure there is a spec for this and you can measure it with a dial indicator if needed but if its too loose your wasting you time lapping 'couse they will never seal properly. Might as well spend the money once and do it right the first time, rather then twice and do it right the second time.

get everything cleaned up first and measured,then you can decide what parts are needed.
a valve job isnt that big of a deal for a shop that does them all the time,so it shouldnt take that long to get them back.
spend a few bucks after you get the cylinder off and take it and the cleaned up pistons to a bike shop and have the bores and pistons measured before spending money on rings

elfmagic17 wrote:

Motor Head wrote:

kz1k wrote:

so all i need is a gasket set and rings?

You need to inspect all of it before you can say that.
Look at the cam chain and guides real close, these eat Idlers, stretch chains break guides. There will be a measurement for the chain, held taunt, a distance at a certain # of pins. You need a presision measuring caliper for this. I don't have the manual for the length, mines the newer style.
So have you pulled the cylinder block off of the engine yet?

Usually you can see the wear marks on the valve stem inside the port when the valve is at the full open point. (with the valve springs off) slide the valve out to full open, wiggle the valve side to side, if you can feel the play it's probably worn too much to lap the valves i'm sure there is a spec for this and you can measure it with a dial indicator if needed but if its too loose your wasting you time lapping 'couse they will never seal properly. Might as well spend the money once and do it right the first time, rather then twice and do it right the second time.

With the seat cut If the valve has a smooth face it will lap into a loose guide easily. The 45 will center the valve right in the middle of the guide. The tool can push sideways some if your not careful. I wouldn't not lap into a worn guide either. I'm just saying I've paid very close attention to what happens when you lap a valve, I test with water and alot of pressure and check the seal constantly, compare it to the margin. A cut seat will invite any valve to lap in as long as the valve is not pitted. Some take longer to cut in than others, I use coarse grit and It cuts time. It leaves a nice serfice and has been time tested many times with not one valve problem. If u run into an 80's engine with a nitrided valves, these give the compound a run for it's money, but it cuts in, just takes alot more lapping before you can see the margin starts to form. Lap until the margin is solid, then the seal is good. The seat is good for heat transfer when it's slightly larger. Carbide, stone, none of it is perfect. Lapping in cuts the two metals into place solid and square. Then you can hammer on them and they won't break off or leak, won't build up carbon. So that's the ones I would want to build with. If the seat is on the wide side it won't get beat in by the valve, like something sharpened to a point and smashed against the concrete, they will mush down and widen out. ANd the shipp is sinking. Valve clearances close up. The valves are open and closing like fat ladys jumping rope. A set up like that? Throw in a bad guide and the ladys are in loose dress, more like a fat lady in a blender, round and round, back and forth. Then chunks fly off. I've got fat lady all over my face, and don't like the taste of fat lady. Not one one bit, I'd rather wrestle the fat lady down and pin her into place. Box her face in. You know. I pull the fat lady around on my kz. She skizzez around like she's on a saucer. I stop down that gravel road spit fat lady into the dirt, look back at her with a squint in my eye, no thought in my head, just the next twist of the wrist, wanting to give it more, feeling the resistance, giving it more. When I return from a ride i got a rope hanging and only the smell of the fat lady. ropes blowin in the wind. Rev once , shutt it off. Stiffly swing the leg over the seat it's been a long ride. Take those first few steps stiffly, every muscle joint you ever hurt crunchin and snapin, I'm thirsty suddenly thirsty, tired, red eyed. And still not enough powe. I'll just super tune it somehow. In this story why am i dragging a fat lady. shes a burden and drags me down, she is gravity. She is intertia. Shes my wife NOT. I can use magic. It is the simple way of believing and acheiving. Believe and it shall be. Believe, relax, breath.

wow, just when i thought i had the terminology down...lol

i still need to remove the bottom half. what holds the piston jugs on, or are they loose allready from taking the head out.

there is a little notch on the bottom of the cylinders where they sit on the case where you can put a flathead screwdriver and pry the cylinders up. THere is nothing holding them but old gasket. Don't just stick the flathead in and start prying on cooling fins though as you will break them and that's not cool! (get it )

BTW if you read through the thread I sent you before, all these questions have already been asked, so you don't have to post and wait for a response.

9am53 wrote:

there is a little notch on the bottom of the cylinders where they sit on the case where you can put a flathead screwdriver and pry the cylinders up. THere is nothing holding them but old gasket. Don't just stick the flathead in and start prying on cooling fins though as you will break them and that's not cool! (get it )

BTW if you read through the thread I sent you before, all these questions have already been asked, so you don't have to post and wait for a response.

my bad....there is so much to read and learn only half sticks. gatta put the doobie down!!!:silly: :dry:

np, don't rush, do your research and take your time because it will take time. I did essentially everything you are doing and there are many pics to guide you along, and many helpful people answering my dumb questions.