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Put the stock clutch cover on today. Think I'll stick with it. I did think about replacing the glass and ring on the other one with a solid piece of aluminium, just cause I like the look of the milled edges. That will go on the back burner for now.

 

one vote for the stock cover.

Was reading thru the "inspection" process for Germany, Holy-Cow Calum!! That's stringent for sure!! Actually might be a good idea here in the states though at least some form of it. I see soo many "Henry Hacksaws" screw up bikes around here ya couldn't pay me enough to ride them. Of course after they screw/butcher them up so severely they want to peddle them on some sales sight. Of course touting butchering as "modifications/high performance". I just giggle... You do Super Clean Work!! 

Didn't get much done today except take the head off to check the valve-piston clearance and figure out how to mount the manifold for the oil lines.

Can anyone tell me the mnimum length of the cylinder stud threads that should be exposed? There's about 8-10mm sticking out on the studs (I may have mixed up the heights with the other build...). I figure 10mm should be OK but I'm not sure about the ones with less than that. I'm using APE heavy duty studs and nuts.

Valve-piston clearance on the intake is about 2mm. Wössner says min 1.5mm so I should be fine. Exhaust has 0.5mm less lift so is fine. I also had a look at the valves that got stuck. You can definitely tell where they got stuck but I think all of the contact should have been below the faces. I'll do a leak test with some petrol on the weekend and then do a visual check when I do the valve clearances on the bench.

 

Callum what are you planning to do with the damage around the valve seats (looks like you had the cracks welded) any sharp edges will risk becoming" hot spots" and cause "pre-ignition"

Wookie58 wrote:

Callum what are you planning to do with the damage around the valve seats (looks like you had the cracks welded) any sharp edges will risk becoming" hot spots" and cause "pre-ignition"

It looks worse that it is. They were laser welded as the cracks went right through to the plugs. It's all pretty smooth, I don't think I'll have any problems.

Spent my Friday night in the garage. Got the timing sorted, repaired a couple of stripped cam cap threads and put the mounts for the oil line manifold on the valve cover. I just screwed a couple of bugs to it using countersink screws and some thread sealant. Slipped with the Dremel so I'll need to put some RTV on that spot. It's not bad but it pissed me off enough for me to stop for the night.

 

 

Almost centered 
 

 

The oil line manifold is a cool idea.

Once the bike is buttoned up I think it will be hard to tell anything between the tank and head is perfectly centered or not.

I can't take credit for the idea - got it from zed1015: kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/608211-extern...eed-to-head?start=12

It will make checking the valve clearances a bit messy but given how easy the carbs will be to remove I'm willing to deal with it to keep the oil lines tucked away - I already have the oil cooler lines running down the side of the engine so anything else will make it look pretty messy.

And yeah, I just used the hand drill instead of taking it to work as I figured noone would notice if it's a mm or two out I just need to stake the screws so they don't end up falling into the engine and then I can put it on and cut the oil lines to fit.

Forgot to ask yesterday: I tested the valves using some white spirits and compressed air last night. Using 2-3 bar directly at the inlet or exhaust ports was fine, but when I went up to 4 bar I could see some bubbles on some valves. I reckon that's OK and I'm just pushing the valve off the seat a bit with 4 bar. Weak springs?

Normally you leak test at atmospheric pressure so I don't think you have anything to worry about 

Put the exhaust on and started work on the oil lines today.

It's getting pretty busy under the carbs but I think I managed to get the oil lines tucked away. I may replace the steel braided line going to the manifold on the valve cover with a nylon line. Not sure yet, it may end up being better with the stiffer steel line. Need a couple of fittings to connect everything up properly, they should be here mid-week. I'll do the lines to the cam galleries tomorrow though, as I have everything I need for that.

The exhaust is a japanese replica of the Kerker S1 system. It came with a Kerker badge and I wasn't sure about putting it on (seemed a bit fraudulent). Looks pretty good though and I do need some sort of distinguishing markings - if I leave it completely blank like it is now they can't enter it into the registration papers (Germany again...). I guess I'll get the drill out tomorrow and rivet that thing on.

 

 

 

 


I put some JB Weld on the valve cover to fill the damage done with the dremel. RTV would have been fine but I didin't want to have to remember it every time I took the cover off.