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82 GPz750 keepin' it real,.. for now
- GPzMOD750
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I got my Carbtune in yesterday! Now I just need the replacement adjusting screw. I've rigged up a remote tank so I can get the carbs balanced and on the road.
I got the coils and plugs back in. I was putting the smog thingamajig stuff back on and noticed one of the large hoses was split and a p.o. had wrapped electrical tape around it that just fell off. I think I'm just going to plug that Crap off and forget it. Does anyone make blanking plates?
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- Tyrell Corp
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The 750 r1 have air assisted forks, also clip on bars that need to be threaded at the top for the retainers. If you are going for a handlebar conversion and can lose the air assited then the forks are 36mm, so there is quite a few to choose, z650 etc. The 550 twin shocks have a leading axle so forget that.
There are blanking plates available for the clean air sytem, alternatively find a euro spec camcover whichis plain without any of that.
1980 Gpz550 D1, 1981 GPz550 D1. 1982 GPz750R1. 1983 z1000R R2. all four aces
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Are there any forks in particular I should look for that would be an upgrade but not too radical? Something I could try to scrounge at my salvage yard?
A non-US cover did occur to me but for now I'll just run tubes between the covers and cap the airbox and vacuum ports.
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I have quite a nice zx750 motor, 10 bhp plus easy bolt in but i want that early GPz midrange grunt. The early 550's are just the same.
If you had that up and running you would apreciate this instantly, so whatever you do try to keep the frame goemetry fairily close. i.e. no silly 17" front wheels or 180 rear tyres. Just my opinionated blinkered opinion.
Hopefully someone will chip in with some modern upgrade that has transformed their handling.
GSXR front and rears was always popular with the custom builders. Don't listen to me,
edit: ok try zx 750 front and rear, they are 37mm forks so you need the yokes too, and you can get the 1100/turbo 280mm discs. Retro streetfighter and all kawasaki. That is what my avatar 550 is wearing.
1980 Gpz550 D1, 1981 GPz550 D1. 1982 GPz750R1. 1983 z1000R R2. all four aces
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- SWest
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GPzMOD750 wrote: ...Are there any forks in particular I should look for that would be an upgrade but not too radical? Something I could try to scrounge at my salvage yard?.....
I suggest you wait before considering any changes like that. Those bikes already handle very well, so you should ride it first and put plenty of miles on it. I believe you will find the forks are quite nice on that bike. I seriously doubt you will push it to a point where you feel those forks are inadequate, so unless you want to change them just so you can spend time in the garage, why bother? Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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1980 Gpz550 D1, 1981 GPz550 D1. 1982 GPz750R1. 1983 z1000R R2. all four aces
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I guess I'm not so much looking for performance improvement as reliability-dependability-ease-of-maintenance-idiot{i.e. me}-proofness.
Wouldn't the ZX750 rear end take some significant modification? Changing the triple clamps for the front end wouldn't be as objectionable to me. I'd like to make anything I do reversible as to not diminish it's restorability if anyone wanted to do so in the future. Anything I'm taking off that's usable is going to be boxed and kept.
Still waiting for that stupid little screw. The only thing that's keeping me from turning her over.
I am planning on going to the DMV tomorrow after work and getting the title transferred, They'll issue a temp registration so I can test ride it and get it inspected, etc.
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She started right up. The idle was a bit sporadic but that was expected. I got the Carbtune on it and got everything balanced out. It might be idling a bit high right now but that's going to have to wait. I burnt the shit out of my knuckle trying to adjust the idle screw. How do you sorry SOBs do it without burning yourselves?
Tomorrow I'll be putting all the bits and pieces back on and taking it for a couple laps around the block or maybe further.
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The main idle screw? The one in the middle of the carbs on the back side? How do you turn that with a screw driver?swest wrote: I use a long screw driver. I'm not into pain. :lol:
Steve
Another thing, The FSM says the vacuum should be at 22 cmHg at idle with a variation of 2 cmHg. I'm at about 16 cmHg with less than 1 cmHg variation. Should I be concerned about that?
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