82 GPz750 keepin' it real,.. for now

650ed wrote: What did you have the torque set at on the torque wrench? Ed

That would be nice. I'm using the low tech beam and pointer.

News flash, I just double checked the specs in the FSM compared to Haynes. The Haynes is typoed so it looks like 104 ft. lbs. not in. lbs. Son of a.... I'm now glad only one snapped. I don't even have an in. lbs. wrench. I'll be picking one of those up asap.

swest wrote: I use oil on my drills. I was taught that in metal shop and I was a Machinist for a short time. (drilling out punch tailings on SS Allen head aircraft bolts. Thousands of them.) :sick: The oil keeps the bit from overheating and helps it in cutting.
The cases are milled as a set. You can't replace just one side. Better off having it welded, drill and tap a new hole.
Steve

I think it's more about my crappy drills. I'll borrow some carbide ones from work tomorrow. Jesus I'm throwing that Haynes manual away.

I'll figure out something to patch that block up until I can get a full rebuild going.

It will run with two.
Steve

swest wrote: It will run with two.
Steve

Cover screws? It only has one right now. I'll figure something out.

I've had too many of these m6 cam bolts snapping in the past, now I put the tourque wrench away and trust my hands on this. also I usually replace with new high tensile steel bolts, they stretch as you have noticed.

Drilling out is firstly using a dot punch, cutting fluid or oil and very slow drill speed until you are centred. I've done it with an ezee out before. You may even be able to turn the broken bolt out if not tight.

If you are using a 2.00 shim and the clearance is still under you may be able to shorten the valve slighty. Maybe check this first otherwise you need to lift the head anyway.

Don't blame the Haynes manual, even the FSM has some typos. clearly no M6 is going to take 106 ft/lbs .

GPzMOD750 wrote:

650ed wrote: What did you have the torque set at on the torque wrench? Ed

That would be nice. I'm using the low tech beam and pointer.

News flash, I just double checked the specs in the FSM compared to Haynes. The Haynes is typoed so it looks like 104 ft. lbs. not in. lbs. Son of a.... I'm now glad only one snapped. I don't even have an in. lbs. wrench. I'll be picking one of those up asap.

That's what I suspected. Ed

Tyrell Corp wrote: I've had too many of these m6 cam bolts snapping in the past, now I put the tourque wrench away and trust my hands on this. also I usually replace with new high tensile steel bolts, they stretch as you have noticed.

Drilling out is firstly using a dot punch, cutting fluid or oil and very slow drill speed until you are centred. I've done it with an ezee out before. You may even be able to turn the broken bolt out if not tight.

If you are using a 2.00 shim and the clearance is still under you may be able to shorten the valve slighty. Maybe check this first otherwise you need to lift the head anyway.

Don't blame the Haynes manual, even the FSM has some typos. clearly no M6 is going to take 106 ft/lbs .

Thanks. Yeah in the In. lb range you can pretty much count that as "snug". I've got a full set of new bolts on the way.

I'm all centered up its just the crappy HSS drill bits I have on hand don't want to bite. I'll grab some carbide bits from work from the "worn but not useless" pile.

I have a Hot Cams set that goes down to 1.85, hopefully, that will be enough.

On this, if you are not confident get a pro to do it. Much easier if the head and broken bolt haven't been butchered already. Broken bolts can usually be extracted with Ezee Out, other option is spark erosion.

New drill bits needed -several, they break, and I also build a 'dam' of blu tac or similar around the area to keep the swarf contained. Much easier done with the head on a bench -hence my valve clearance question.

Tyrell Corp wrote: On this, if you are not confident get a pro to do it. Much easier if the head and broken bolt haven't been butchered already. Broken bolts can usually be extracted with Ezee Out, other option is spark erosion.

New drill bits needed -several, they break, and I also build a 'dam' of blu tac or similar around the area to keep the swarf contained. Much easier done with the head on a bench -hence my valve clearance question.

In the shop I work our "worn" bits are considered barely broken-in most everywhere else. Between gunsmithing for 20 yrs and rebuilding a few cars and trucks this is not the first broken bolt I've done battle with. This was a dumb mistake on my part by not double checking the torque specs since I've never worked on a motorcycle to this extent it didn't throw up any red flags. Lesson learned.

If the head comes off I'm just going to take it to a machine shop unless it looks squeaky clean. I'd do the work myself but I don't have access to the appropriate machines long enough to make sure I have everything set up well enough and do the necessary operations.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationI don't use a inch pound torque wrench. I use a stubby 3/8's or 1/4" ratchet and go by feel. I can tell if the threads are galling or coming out. I always have #6 Heil Coils on hand for just this reason. Another good thing to have is reverse drills.



A lot of times the bolt will come out on it's own.
Steve

I was thinking just to use a box wrench maybe with about half the length chopped off. The LH drills would come in handy too, especially in tight shots where the tapered easy out won't reach.

Finally got the valve gaps sorted out. Ended up needing to use a Helicoil to fix the busted bolt. I guess Ill have to wait for the replacement bolts to arrive so I can button up the cam cover then see if I did any good with a compression test.

I got the replacement instrument cluster, Looks really god except for some scrapes to the plastic on the upper corner. Definitely in better shape than mine.


I guess I'll get that installed and make sure I get the headlight on OK. I suppose I could get the carbs mounted back up as well.