Tri.... scores one for the barn find column 79MK11

"j.c whitney carburetor sync gauges "...?

Spend the extra $40 and get the Morgan unit.... Huge difference in dialing them in (sync)....

never thought of grinding a tad off or even wire wheel...this may be the answer..i have,in the past been able to align the process by wiggling ,and, the header actually was in a bind with the rear pegs bracket at the final tightening that i neglected to re-check and wiggle...

If after loosening and re-setting the exhaust i am still getting ticking/leaks then i will drop the pipe and clean the split collars and relieve the flanges a tad...great tip...never had a problem before other than having to use a flat head and a mallet to push/tap a couple of stubborn split collars into the flanges once in a while...

i do have a jardine canister pipe in nice shape but one of the reasons i did not use it was the pipes looked skimpy next to the vance and hines and damaged keker....

worst comes to worst i may use it...thanks

Old Man Rock wrote:

"j.c whitney carburetor sync gauges "...?

Spend the extra $40 and get the Morgan unit.... Huge difference in dialing them in (sync)....

shit ...i forgot you read this post...okay honey i'll get the good ones

To keep those pristine header pipes looking beautiful, would get a couple of cans of ultra high temp header paint and spray a half can inside each header pipe.

Spray extra heavily into the curved area where pipes typically discolor from exhaust heat.

Following this treatment, my Z1 still looks good after several years, including extended highway cruising, and three Daytona Bike Week ventures on A1A hot as hell idling along in never ending traffic jams. Has Yoshimira engine with 29 smoothies and lightly baffled V&H.

I was very skeptical, but the high temp spray treatment has worked surprisingly well and held up for quite a long time. Still doing the job.

Good Fortune!

nice...yoshi engine....drool...any engine kit really...but..i have not rode this MKII much to know if it is strong, except home from buying it...where it pulled a decent grade ,up and over like a train...so we'll see...reading all this engine hop up stuff on kzr makes me focus on the things i don't have and i try and keep in front of me some gratitude for at least having a running bike...but still I hope to find a barn bike with a built ex-superbike engine...being near to seca ,sears point,willow springs....i'm sure there are a quiet a few hiding under tarps or forgotten in a shed.....

i know i will find an era racebike or pumped street motored bike one day..so i try hold out hope for a cheaper entry into the big bore club....

i will coat the header and really coat the bends at the tops....no way that paint could find it's way later in flakes into the exhuast port and valve seats???

trianglelaguna wrote:

...will coat the header and really coat the bends at the tops....no way that paint could find it's way later in flakes into the exhaust port and valve seats???

Imo, zero risk.

As to dim timing light, if not already tried, often more visible when using it in the dark.
Dark garage, or just outside at night.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

To keep those pristine header pipes looking beautiful, would get a couple of cans of ultra high temp header paint and spray a half can inside each header pipe.

Spray extra heavily into the curved area where pipes typically discolor from exhaust heat.

Following this treatment, my Z1 still looks good after several years, including extended highway cruising, and three Daytona Bike Week ventures on A1A hot as hell idling along in never ending traffic jams. Has Yoshimira engine with 29 smoothies and lightly baffled V&H.

I was very skeptical, but the high temp spray treatment has worked surprisingly well and held up for quite a long time. Still doing the job.

Good Fortune!

Patton - where did you find that highway peg set up? I've been searching high and low for quite a while with no luck.

Tri - depending on what set of carbs you're using, there is a vacuum nipple on some of the carbs specifically for the vacuum petcock. It needs to be capped when not using a vac petcock.

79MKII wrote:

Patton wrote:

...

Patton - where did you find that highway peg set up? I've been searching high and low for quite a while with no luck....

Acquired many pre-ebay years ago from a long forgotten source.

They do appear on ebay occasionally.

Good Fortune!

trianglelaguna wrote:

i have a harbor frieght timing light(the cheap one too) strobe gun and it is pretty hard for me to see the marks as it flashes in the ignition housing viewing slot....also the advancer kinda wobbles in there during the strobes and if i remember right i chose to pick which mark it wobbled to more often...stupid i know it sounds...but that was last yr and i might be getting more advanced from listening to you guys..(i hope)anyways i will try again..this was on another motor too,that i experienced difficulty determining what i was seeing and difficulty just plain seeing.......

I wish I had seen this eariler. I bought the same $15 piece of crap and threw it away. It's junk. I borrowed a buddy's timing light and there was a world of difference. The adjustments I had made with the HF light were completely wrong. I don't even know how they can sell that thing.

true dat....i think a darker garage but also think i wasted a few bucks..i should take it to em next time i go there and see what they will credit me towards on my bead blaster purchase.......i figured it was just some wires and light and trigger and could not be TOO shitty...but it feels like a toy...actually feels like a poorly made toy.....but i am not blaming the gun for my lack of experience...still when i saw it was a cheapo i should not have bought it.....

Another tip when timing the Dyna III ---

Would suggest first trying to get timing as close as possible by moving the entire backing plate in the slotted grooves. The timing may happen to be correct without having to separately fine tune each module within its 10 degree allowance.

As delivered, each module is likely in mid-position within its adjustment range, and already 180 degrees apart from each other. Where 1-4 F mark alignment should equate to 2-3 F mark alignment. All without having to fine tune each separate module.

Good Fortune!

man i hope i'm wrong but i thought it was odd that the plate only had 3/16 size holes to bolt exactly center and level in the ignition housing...when i read the link this morning and it mentioned adjusting the pick ups one at a time ,it made sense cause of my "fixed position" plate...now i am seeing dyna III systems in google images,with sloted holes...i'll know in the morning...

if it was not slotted...do i have an early or later version??? of a III

or did some yackoff make a plate after they did somthing stupid...or before ect...:huh: ?????

pics in the morning...peace...