Tri.... scores one for the barn find column 79MK11

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thats exactly how id be doing it also

so i know i skipped some critical stuff if i was charging someone...i did not urltrasonic em...i did not boil anything in anything...i did not saok over night...i used a finish nail...an old wire and ten bucks worth of carb spray and chemtool.....

i dropped one spring from an air mixture screw and had to steal one from some 26 laying around...my eyes found one but gave up on the other..i know where it feel in the dirt though :huh:

i was super careful not to bore with my wires or snap it in the hole...i turned the torque on my ryobi as low as it would go and only used it to speed the spinning on/off of the 16 bowl screws...i torqued nothing and hand tightened to my feel all installed parts....

thats my yard bench cleaning pictorial.....got the coils on and tomorrow the dyna 111 and a V&H and we'll see i hope...time is running out to ride it around with the GP nights thurs fri sat.......touched up the carb bodies and got em on and filters oiled and installed...touched up some fin and cover stuff with the satin engine paints...peace

trianglelaguna wrote:

...

i dropped one spring from an air mixture screw and had to steal one from some 26 laying around...

How funny, I just rebuilt a set of 33's last night. I also lost an air screw spring and also scavenged one from a set of 26's I had!!

The only thing I did differently was replace gaskets and o-rings but only because these were really bad. Usually a good tear down, cleaning, and reassemble is good enough. By the way - what size socket did you use for the needle valve seats?? I couldn't find a metric or standard size that fit! Is that like a 8.5mm or something weird?

Also, did you do a mechanical synchronization? It didn't seem possible on mine to have all slides set equally at the bottom (idle) and the top (wide open). It had to be one or the other. I also set the float height and they were waaaay off. Can't wait to try them out.

trianglelaguna wrote:

...i dropped one spring from an air mixture screw and had to steal one from some 26 laying around...my eyes found one but gave up on the other..i know where it feel in the dirt though....

Try going over the area with a speaker magnet.

Carbs looking good!

Good Fortune!

magnet for sure tomorrow i got a 2x2 area in mind...

10 mm on my needle seats..hmmmm

did not set float levels..they all looked fine 2 me..might get burned here..

wanna set floats ans synch if i get em to run on the stock head

okay now thats weird ...were you drinking a sugar free rock star and listening to a comercial free independent hippie station.... and when you lost the spring were they playing a garage bands cut of strawberry fields...

79MKII wrote:

trianglelaguna wrote:

...

i dropped one spring from an air mixture screw and had to steal one from some 26 laying around...

How funny, I just rebuilt a set of 33's last night. I also lost an air screw spring and also scavenged one from a set of 26's I had!!

The only thing I did differently was replace gaskets and o-rings but only because these were really bad. Usually a good tear down, cleaning, and reassemble is good enough. By the way - what size socket did you use for the needle valve seats?? I couldn't find a metric or standard size that fit! Is that like a 8.5mm or something weird?

Also, did you do a mechanical synchronization? It didn't seem possible on mine to have all slides set equally at the bottom (idle) and the top (wide open). It had to be one or the other. I also set the float height and they were waaaay off. Can't wait to try them out.

trianglelaguna wrote:

...did not set float levels..they all looked fine 2 me..might get burned here...wanna set floats and sync if i get em to run on the stock head

While carbs are on the bench, would use clear tube method to assure correct fuel level. Adapt tube to draw fuel from drain hole at bottom of float bowl.

A cone shaped rubber plug with a hole through it for the tube to fit into can be held in the drain hole during testing.

Only one float bowl screw is sufficient between bowl removals during successive tang adjustments.

Remember to bench sync, and have the idle thumb screw about half-way in its threads to assure sufficient room for later idle adjustment when fine tuning pilot circuit.

Forgive one negative --- 33 smoothies are often reported as too much carb for oem KZ engines. Hope your experience is otherwise.

Good Fortune!

i know they are bigger than the damn ports..well see...
i have more carbs..just these sure is purty..well see..if not then oh well no biggie...they can go on the j bike later
i already installed them and am gonna synch and check floats in a while....too late...they all looked dam close to my eyes..

i'm a pretty lucky guy...and have come to bank on stuff when i get a gut feeling...i think they will work...why??

just have that feeling..we'll see

No Tri, I guess the coincidences end there. :laugh:

I didn't even realize I was missing a spring until I started the reassembly - I had disassembled and cleaned over the weekend - then my new carb parts arrived on Monday. :woohoo:

I have no idea where that spring went but I sure can't find it. Glad the 26's were the same.

I haven't tried the 33 smoothies on a stock bike but did run them on my MKII when it had a 1045 kit and cams and they ran real well.

couple a more pics for my thread documentation...


changed out points,condensers,breaker plate,rotor,and ignitor...for a dyna III...went ok...could not remeber which side the dot on the dyna rotor went so went with 2&3 side and got lucky..it ran later so i must have picked the right pick up side.....

took me a few to find the right sockett and wrench combo to grab the thin 17mm and turn the 13mm