A Newbies Adventures in Maintenanceland!

9am53 wrote:

I understand how the bolt on the back of the chain adjuster assembly keeps the rear axle from shifting forwards, what is stopping it from sliding backwards? Is the tension of the drive chain enough to do this? am I missing something?

Secondly I read through the manual when I installed the rear wheel back on, but I am curious to know if I put the axle in the right way. I think I read it correctly and the nut with the cotter pin goes on the left side of the bike, is this right? or does it matter...also how tight do you go on the axles, similarly in the front I don't know how tight to go on the nuts, I assume I don't want it to be loose, but also not so tight as to damage the bearings or cause undue friction right?

Once the axle nut is torqued down, it is primarily resonsible for the wheel staying put. The adjusters/stop screws are just to prevent the axle from leaving the arm end if "heaven forbid" it should ever come loose.
Don't fret, it can hold up to anything you'll throw at it and more.

Rear wheel torque: 90 ft/lbs.
Front wheel torque: 75 ft/lbs.
Least thats what I use... I'm sure someone will bark in with different exact specs...

Use a good NEW STEEL cotter pin, and re-torque them after your first good ride. -check monthly/seasonally.

TeK9iNe wrote:

9am53 wrote:

do I need to use the grease sparingly so as not to induce short circuits? basically I am asking if the grease will bridge the pins in a connector if I just glob it on. How do you apply just enough grease to do it's job, but not make the situation worse?

Because di-electric means basically non-conductive, you can use as much as you want. However, some people have found that over time the grease directly between contacts caused an intermittent connection. I've never had a problem with good tight contacts, ever.

Basically, its your choice, but it really is just meant to prevent moisture/water from intruding into contacts, so using it in certain connector parts/areas and not directly on the contacts might be the better choice.

OH, I thought di-electric grease was conductive...my bad, makes sense now.

So do I owe you a beer for all your help?

I think I will switch the axle around, my kerker is the same as yours and I figure the nut and cotter will be hidden behind the can, so I won't have to looks at them all the time. Do you have the end cap on but no baffle? I thought I would try that out.


Patton wrote:

9am53 wrote:

...Does it matter which terminal gets the + lead and which gets the black/green wire?....

No, it doesn't matter, because the coil primary winding terminals have no polarity.

Rear axle inserted from left, with nut and cotter key on right (often behind muffler from 4 into one) allows removal of axle without removing muffler. And the axle nut and cotter key remain accessible (as do the flats and holding tunnel on the other end).

Good Luck!

Just one? :laugh: I'm sure we can work out something!

I like the Nut on the exhaust side also

9am53 wrote:

Do you have the end cap on but no baffle? I thought I would try that out.

Leave the baffle in, trust me! It will keep your midrange nice and smooth/torquey, and not wake up neighbors blocks away.

The thing is I don't have a baffle...I had an ad in the classifieds looking for one and the best I could find was a ratty old one for 75 bucks...I passed so I could see how it ran without...I would certainly miss the freight train at 3000rpm. I suppose I could get a non-kerker baffle, but whats the point of that?

Have always used a hitch pin clip instead of a cotter key on the axle nut, and never had an issue. Much quicker and more convenient, especially for routine chain adjustment, and reusable forever.

Size is important. :lol: And the clips are readily available in many sizes at the local hardware store.

As with chain master link, I install the clip with closed end forward, to help avoid being knocked out by flying road debris.

Admittedly, not as secure as a properly installed cotter key. But also less apt to cut a finger when polishing and wiping.

And besides, I like the looks. :laugh:

Good Luck!

Possible source for Kerker baffle ---

Open link, click on Exhaust Parts (left side of screen), then click on Baffles for Exhausts.

baffle

Good Luck!

Now will the mac baffle not sound like a mac, and not a kerker? I will try it out without the baffle and see, if I need more bottom end I will baffle it up, and likely by that time have got more money so I will buy a proper kerker baffle, I just can't do it now, this winter tapped me

9am53 wrote:

Now will the mac baffle not sound like a mac, and not a kerker? I will try it out without the baffle and see, if I need more bottom end I will baffle it up, and likely by that time have got more money so I will buy a proper kerker baffle, I just can't do it now, this winter tapped me

It will sound like a merker, or a kac :blink:

Without the baffle will be ok at first... really gets the testosterone flowin'! :laugh:

Till you ride it thru a downtown area, and everyone is covering thier ears and throwing you stares of death!

Not to mention, I have been stopped twice for it...
Yes its that LOUD.

Your call :laugh:

You can make a homemade baffle though!

1. Get a good (3ft) length of (2inch) exhaust pipe.
2. Cut 8 slots about 3inches long into the end of the pipe lengthwise.
3. Fold the pieces back towards the other end of the pipe (135 degrees. Sort of flowering the end of the pipe to make a stop for the baffling inside)
4. Insert the flowered end into the exhaust and figure out how deep it is/where to cut the exposed end of the pipe to fit the end cap snugly.
5. Cut pipe where measured, then drill the pipe with as many evenly spaced 1/2inch drill holes as possible.
6. Get some pipe pack from a local dirtbike ditributor, and pack your new baffle as per the pipe pack's instructions.
7. Insert your new baffle into the exhaust end and fit end cap back in snug!
8. Tada! Listen to your baby purrrrr. No real audible loss at bottem end, but it smooths out and kills the shrill top end that'l make yer ears bleed!

I got this idea after I had repared many a dirtbike, and did thier repacks. The baffle is nearly EXACTLY the same thing as the power baffles/pipes for dirtbikes, and works highly effectively!

Good luck!

9am53 wrote:

The thing is I don't have a baffle...I had an ad in the classifieds looking for one and the best I could find was a ratty old one for 75 bucks...I passed so I could see how it ran without...I would certainly miss the freight train at 3000rpm. I suppose I could get a non-kerker baffle, but whats the point of that?

Just for another intersting tidbit of info...

You're pretty close in thought.
Rpm ranges are generally as follows:

Low rpm range = until full advance.
Mid rpm range = from full advance, until half way to redline.
High rpm range= half way to redline, until redline+

Having no baffle tends to show up around middle of low range and most of the midrange or more... 2500 - 5000+rpm.

sounds like a plan! thanks