A Newbies Adventures in Maintenanceland!

I finished my valves last night, and followed OMR's recommendation of getting the cam caps in and torqueing the valve cover on to set the caps, and hopefully in the next couple days I will go back and put the valve cover gasket on for good.

I also pulled the rear wheel off, and tried to follow the instructions on removing the bearings. I took the sprocket housing thing off, removed the grease seals from both ends, removed the circlips, but I can't seem to make the bearings budge. I tried mainly to remove the bearings from the wheel portion, so like I said I had the clip out, and followed the instructions and banged on the inner race on the bearing on the disk side of the wheel. After several minutes of banging it wasn't moving so I didn't want to force anything and quit...do I need to heat the rim to remove the bearings? Would it not make more sense to bang on the outer race of the bearing since it is what is seated in the rim?

I would soak the outer race, where it contacts the wheel, with Kroil for a couple days then drive the bearing out using a drift against the outer race. Ed

Thanks Ed, I have pb blaster so I'll use that. Does my manual have another mistake in telling me to bang against the inner race? forgive my ignorance but what is a drift?

Banging against the inner race drives it against the steel balls and them against the outer race. This will damage the bearing surfaces of both races by creating dimples in the races. Banging against the outer race doesn't apply any pressure on the steel balls or bearing surfaces on which the balls roll so there is no damage. This may not matter a great deal when removing old bearings that are going to be discarded, but you should never bang on the inner race of bearings, such as the new ones, that you plan to use. By "drift" I meant a steel or brass rod used to drive out the bearing. Ed

Thanks, the bearings seem to smoothly spin still, but I think I should now replace them that I likely have damaged them. I was supposed to go ice fishing tonight, but I am kind of interested to see if I can get the bearings out with a few solid hours dedicated to it. I will check it out tonight and post results. Hopefully I get it apart, otherwise I am a total bonehead! lol

BTW... Where's all the images as you go through each phase....?

What, don't they have digital photography technology up there in Canook land.... :laugh:

yeah, I have been kind of skimping on the photo side of things...we do have cameras here, but I need a cartridge for my polaroid My gf has been hogging the camera and everytime I head over to work on the bike I forget to take it back...

9am53 wrote:

I also started adjusting my valves, all are good, exhaust are 0.08-0.1, and my intake are all going to be 0.05-0.08, although I may have to go buy one shim from the shop because one valve is being frustrating.

If you've had the valves/head done (I don't recall), make sure to account for seating. The clearances will decrease a small amount (.001 - .002inch in most cases) as they wear in.

I go closer to .1mm on intake, and .15mm exhaust as they will tighten up more due to heat.

Cheers, n Good Luck... from Florida :laugh:



OMR, feel free to flame the Canuck Conversion! (inch - mm's) :woohoo: :laugh:

TeK9iNe wrote:

9am53 wrote:

I also started adjusting my valves, all are good, exhaust are 0.08-0.1, and my intake are all going to be 0.05-0.08, although I may have to go buy one shim from the shop because one valve is being frustrating.

If you've had the valves/head done (I don't recall), make sure to account for seating. The clearances will decrease a small amount (.001 - .002inch in most cases) as they wear in.

I go closer to .1mm on intake, and .15mm exhaust as they will tighten up more due to heat.

Cheers, n Good Luck... from Florida :laugh:



OMR, feel free to flame the Canuck Conversion! (inch - mm's) :woohoo: :laugh:

Actually I unintentionally and preemptively took your advice. Just before I put the valve cover on I decided to check all the lashes one more time just to be sure, turns out that rotating the cams around a few times seated the shims a bit and all my clearances loosened up a bit, so my intakes are all .08ish and my exhausts are all .12-.15. And you know what we should flame ourselves for our canuck conversion...I weigh 265 pounds, I don't know what that is in kilos, you buy deli meat in hundreds of grams, it is 275 km to Toronto, but my boat is 19 feet long...I think this fencepost is enlarging my butthole!

"I weigh 265 pounds, "... :blink: Poor KZ....
You better be as tall as Craigy you fat basterd....

Oh wait, long winters up there eating Caribou and twinkies... My bad.... :S

Old Man Rock wrote:

"I weigh 265 pounds, "... :blink: Poor KZ....
You better be as tall as Craigy you fat basterd....

Oh wait, long winters up there eating Caribou and twinkies... My bad.... :S

haha, poor kz for sure, last summer I weighed 320 pounds and I did a fair bit of cruising around the province with my not-so-skinny gf and bags full of stuff. You should have seen us on the REALLY poor 550 spectre! Thank god for wet clutches! Luckily I am 6'5" so I don't look like a blob, I also have hair to the middle of my back and a big red beard, so I look like a viking! broads love it! lol I don't eat twinkies, I prefer funnel cake

6'5"... wholly carp your up there with Craigy then....

Damn, I need to go ride/camp with you two, tie ropes to both of your necks to set up my hammock.... Sweet! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: