A Newbies Adventures in Maintenanceland!

i normally set up my engines to use .004" on the intake and .006" on the exhaust. seems to work pretty good for me.

.004 intakes, .005 exhausts.

Don't worry too much about perfect accuracy right now, cause you will be back in thier soon enough to check/change some out again.

Tight tolerances are great for making power (if you want), you'll just have to check/change more often.
Too tight = :S Compression loss, burnt valve, poop.

9am53 wrote:

Turning the crank without having the shims on top of the buckets is a big no-no right? would it be a good idea to take the cams out before I do the shim swapping?

A1: CORRECT - big no-no. It will mark up the cam lobes BAD.

A2: You need to have shims in place before tightening down any cam caps so as not to damage the cam lobes on the sharp bucket edges.
I would swap shims with the caps properly torqued down, so you don't change the gaps/tolerances accidentally.
This is also part of the reason why after some kms, you'll have to get back in thier and check/change shims, and torques. Heat and expansion are going to make things change.

Cheers!

"use .004" on the intake and .006" on the exhaust."...

Well I wish you Canooks would make up your damn mind.... You want freaking metric then you recommend in inches.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

OMR

who the hell said we wanted metric, i do all my clearance measurments in standard always have i do know this for sure 1 mm is .040" i convert back and forth all the time. also each shim size is about .002".

Here's one of the several handy quick conversion web-sites.
No math required. :laugh:

www.onlineconversion.com/length_common.htm

Good Luck!

Old Man Rock wrote:

"use .004" on the intake and .006" on the exhaust."...

Well I wish you Canooks would make up your damn mind.... You want freaking metric then you recommend in inches.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

OMR

:laugh: :laugh: .10mm on intakes, .005inch on exhausts.

Just to clarify. :woohoo:



PS. its Canuck! :silly:

TeK9iNe wrote:

Old Man Rock wrote:

"use .004" on the intake and .006" on the exhaust."...

Well I wish you Canooks would make up your damn mind.... You want freaking metric then you recommend in inches.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

OMR

:laugh: :laugh: .10mm on intakes, .005inch on exhausts.

Just to clarify. :woohoo:



PS. its Canuck! :silly:

yeah, Crazy Canucks....who keep getting injured before the olympics....damn skiers

Tomorrow I will do what swapping I can, that motion pro tool works about as well as a butter knife for cutting sushi. I think I will have to get the hang of it. I understand why too tight is bad (for tolerances anyway) but how is too loose bad (again, for tolerances :S ) would too loose just mean the valves are not opening enough?

yep,but too loose is still better than too tight

can-cooks....

Old Man Rock wrote:

can-cooks....

well as a matter of fact i do cook everything out of a can! :laugh:

:laugh:

Too loose is OK. But valvetrain will be very noisy. You'll get that cold lifter sound... TAP-TAP-TAP-TAP-TAP-TAP-TAP... very annoying.

Remember, when checking the clearances, press the feeler gauge perfectly flat to the shim hard (by bending it), then attempt to slide it under the cam. If you just try to push the gauge in at an angle, often it will jam and make you think there is no gap.

Ahh, back in the newbie days...

Hope this helps!

Cheers.