A Newbies Adventures in Maintenanceland!

coil mod- coil mod- coil mod.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Old Man Rock wrote:

coil mod- coil mod- coil mod.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

You know what, I have nothing against the coil mod and thought I may employ it, and still might, but it is so gnarly under my seat that I think I will just go through the main wires, follow and replace them and clean up contacts/grounds. I don't want to make it more hairy under there, so simplicity will be the key. Hopefully I can get it cleaned up under there and not miss/mess up any connections because I hate hunting electrical gremlins!

Yeah, I'm leaving Florida. It sucks, but at least I've got lots of work to do when I get back

I'm actually going to be rebuilding a 76 BMW R75/5 - Big project!

Good idea to go through all the existing wiring first. You will be rewarded grasshopper! :laugh:

Good luck

TTT

What's up? Ya need someone to ride your ass, or are you just taking a break? It's cool ... I was just looking forward to your updates on your build, as I'm heading down the same road!

Tony

X2

Ross

Hey no worries, glad somebody's interested.

I spent today in the ice shack with the girlfriend, but I did some work yesterday. I fixed that wiring from the other day and got it back on the bike. I took apart the wiring harness and started following some leads looking for weak connections. I got some contact cleaner and dielectric grease and you actually reminded me that I have a question about the stuff; if I clean out those plastic connectors with some of the contact cleaner and want to use the grease on it to keep moisture out and a strong connection then do I need to use the grease sparingly so as not to induce short circuits? basically I am asking if the grease will bridge the pins in a connector if I just glob it on. How do you apply just enough grease to do it's job, but not make the situation worse?

Upon looking at the leads coming from the ignition coils I noticed that the black wire (I think its from the 1+4 coil) had a splice in it leading somewhere, is this for my tach? I didn't have time to investigate further, and I would take a pic, but as usual my girlfriend had the camera, if nobody knows then I will just follow it and check it out. I would look at my manual but it is in the garage. Other than that I am waiting on my new stainless brake lines and new LED turn signals and bar end mirrors. Once I get the electrical boogiemen taken care of I will FINALLY re-sand my bodywork and clearcoat it. Hopefully I will get my seat back soon too, I am kind of anxious to see how it looks.

Thanks for the interest and I hope this is being somewhat helpful in eliminating some questions and whatnot. Cheers, back to my book. Here in Ontario we have Family Day tomorrow, so I get the day off, I plan to go see The Wolfman at night, and hopefully get some more of the electrical done. I WILL have +13 volts going to my coils, and I WILL have less clutter under my butt this summer!

I'm back. The black wire that is spliced to the ignition wire is indeed for my tach, so that is figured out. I continued with the wiring today and I think I found some of my issues regarding poor coil voltage. This pic is a ground wire that obviously is on it's last legs.



I fixed this and found that most of the grounds were indeed compromised either by rust or general engine goo. I also found something else, my ignition coils were miss matched, and I also found that the leads going to the coils were messed up, check out this shadetree wiring job!



I have obviously fixed these up too so I think with some contact cleaner and dielectric grease on the grounds I will have my full voltage back. I have luckily found that all of my connectors are reasonably clean of rust and crap, and the wiring harness is pretty ok for the most part except for under the seat, so I think I may have found the source of my low voltages. Any advice on adding the grease to connectors? Should I just contact clean them out and use the grease only on simple point to point wiring like the engine ground or battery connections?

I got a good price on these green dyna coils, but I don't have the instructions. Does it matter which terminal gets the + lead and which gets the black/green wire?


Before I finish I have one more dumb newb question...



I understand how the bolt on the back of the chain adjuster assembly keeps the rear axle from shifting forwards, what is stopping it from sliding backwards? Is the tension of the drive chain enough to do this? am I missing something?

Secondly I read through the manual when I installed the rear wheel back on, but I am curious to know if I put the axle in the right way. I think I read it correctly and the nut with the cotter pin goes on the left side of the bike, is this right? or does it matter...also how tight do you go on the axles, similarly in the front I don't know how tight to go on the nuts, I assume I don't want it to be loose, but also not so tight as to damage the bearings or cause undue friction right?

Sorry about all the questions tonight, once I get through fixing this diy fuse assembly:



and some weird front turn signals that don't match up with the manual at all I am basically on the home stretch, and y'all can take a big sigh of relief... well, that is until I fire it up and am tuning things/cleaning up my exploded bike! :blink:


Have a nice night!

9am53 wrote:

...Does it matter which terminal gets the + lead and which gets the black/green wire?....

No, it doesn't matter, because the coil primary winding terminals have no polarity.

Rear axle inserted from left, with nut and cotter key on right (often behind muffler from 4 into one) allows removal of axle without removing muffler. And the axle nut and cotter key remain accessible (as do the flats and holding tunnel on the other end).

Good Luck!

Here big guy... Regarding the coils....

The coil plug wires face forward and put some heat shrink around the mounting sleeves... The coil power feed is the bottom of the two terminals...

I placed the Dyna-S Coil Installation Procedure in the KZR data base for you...

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=469&Itemid=108

OMR

As shown, one Dyna coil primary terminal screw head is dangerously near the coil mount spacer.

The several insulation methods include replacing the spacer with a non-conductive unit or using a couple of small tie-wraps around the spacer.

Good Luck!

sweet, thanks boys

9am53 wrote:

do I need to use the grease sparingly so as not to induce short circuits? basically I am asking if the grease will bridge the pins in a connector if I just glob it on. How do you apply just enough grease to do it's job, but not make the situation worse?

Because di-electric means basically non-conductive, you can use as much as you want. However, some people have found that over time the grease directly between contacts caused an intermittent connection. I've never had a problem with good tight contacts, ever.

Basically, its your choice, but it really is just meant to prevent moisture/water from intruding into contacts, so using it in certain connector parts/areas and not directly on the contacts might be the better choice.