A Newbies Adventures in Maintenanceland!

9am53 wrote:

Kawickrice wrote:

Ground the light with the clip to any where on the motor or the battery. Stick the point in the connector for either the black or green, depending on which coil you are testing. Turn the crank with the 17mm wrench with the key ON the light will light up when the ignition fires. It should fire when your timing marks line up. Do the same with the other side the same way.

This is exactly what I did, but the light stayed on. Based on Pattons pic it would seem that I was jsut connecting ground to (+) through the curly coils in the pic, therefor no switching on or off.

I just did this procedure a few days ago while installing a Dyna ignition. I put the point of the tester into the connector, not on the coil itself. Mine turned the light on when the ignition fired and turned OFF after a quarter turn past fire.

Lest my head explode and leave a zombies lunch all over my lab I am going to try out Pattons pictorial explanation first since it makes sense to me. If this yields unsatisfactory results I will crawl back and ask again. Unfortunately I can't find a procedure for static timing in my manual...sheesh!

Mercy Buckets

Stock '82KZ1000LTD ign uses pulsing coil (under points plate) for ground/unground signal > igniter > ign coils.

If replaced with Dyna S, the igniter is no longer used, and the signal wires from Dyna S pickups go directly to ign coils primary terminals.

The Dyna S has a slotted backplate to adjust timing. And also each Dyna S pickup coil may be independently adjusted to fine tune 1/4 timing and 2/3 timing, separately from one another.

A strobe type timing light may be used with either stock or Dyna S to inspect the timing by viewing alignment of the F mark with case mark at idle rpm, and to view functioning of the advancer unit by watching it quickly move back and forth as rpm is varied by blipping the throttle.

Imo, static timing (engine not running) is just getting close enough for the engine to run, so that far more accurate dynamic timing (engine running) may be inspected and adjusted if necessary.

Good Fortune!

Not that it's any better or worse than a continuity test light, but I use an ohmmeter to determine continuity.

Good Fortune!

I was planning on doing this static timing as you say just to make sure I can start it up, and then use my new timing gun to check it out once I get it going.

That explanation of how my ignition system is different than Dyna explains why that old guys tutorial didn't work for me, thanks for not just glossing over it and helping me understand! KZR rules

Timming shmiming!:laugh:

With points or dyna, just set them at center settings to start, and you wont have any problems. If you have the kaw elec ignition, then assemble and forget, no timing needed unless you plan on modifying the plate.

Then... Just fire her up with the timing light on there, and have a look.

Its real fast n, easy.

PS. Correct timing is WAY more important at full advance then at idle.

Good Luck! Come by soon! its gettin' nice.

soon my friend, soon. I am riding to the Bruce peninsula in may with my old man...wanna meet up halfway?

Patton wrote:

Imo, static timing (engine not running) is just getting close enough for the engine to run, so that far more accurate dynamic timing (engine running) may be inspected and adjusted if necessary.

Good Fortune!

I have found out that if static timing is dead nuts and the advancer is working correctly 9 out of 10 times the timing light will be dead nuts also. I ALWAYS double check the static method with a strobe for assurance.

So I tried the static timing again using Patton's method, and this time I got nothing. I hooked it up with my multimeter and got nothing again. I then said fuggit and turned the lights down and checked for spark. I got a nice blue/white strong spark from both coils so I am gonna say screw it. I made sure I put the advancer in right, and from my million times turning the engine over I know it's not 180* out. I have a timing gun and will check the dynamic timing with the spark plug once it's running. There are no slots for the pickup plate to rotate around, so I put it back the way it went in from the factory. I also drained some of my oil because of my ZDDP debacle and toppped up with some Nugold (cheap oil here in Canuckia). My new headers allow access to my drain plug, and I think I will be able to remove the oil filter as well; sick. I then wetsanded all my plastics and my tank and I almost got a chub looking at my paint, I am happy with it for sure! It was pouring rain out here, so I am going to wait for a dryer day before I spray my clear. I also put my seat on which has 2 more inches under my ass and is comfy as hell, I just think I am going to have to have it altered as the front part that covers up the tank bolt (under my crotch) seems like it is not quite right. Again, sorry no camera. Once I get a house of my own there will be more pics I promise! lol

Maybe, we see. I'm pretty busy through the early summer months, but I would'nt count out completely.

It would be very cool

Kawickrice wrote:

Patton wrote:

Imo, static timing (engine not running) is just getting close enough for the engine to run, so that far more accurate dynamic timing (engine running) may be inspected and adjusted if necessary.

Good Fortune!

I have found out that if static timing is dead nuts and the advancer is working correctly 9 out of 10 times the timing light will be dead nuts also. I ALWAYS double check the static method with a strobe for assurance.

DATS RIGHT...

:laugh:

9am53 wrote:

So I tried the static timing again using Patton's method, and this time I got nothing. I hooked it up with my multimeter and got nothing again. I then said fuggit and turned the lights down and checked for spark. I got a nice blue/white strong spark from both coils so I am gonna say screw it. I made sure I put the advancer in right, and from my million times turning the engine over I know it's not 180* out. I have a timing gun and will check the dynamic timing with the spark plug once it's running. There are no slots for the pickup plate to rotate around, so I put it back the way it went in from the factory. I also drained some of my oil because of my ZDDP debacle and toppped up with some Nugold (cheap oil here in Canuckia). My new headers allow access to my drain plug, and I think I will be able to remove the oil filter as well; sick. I then wetsanded all my plastics and my tank and I almost got a chub looking at my paint, I am happy with it for sure! It was pouring rain out here, so I am going to wait for a dryer day before I spray my clear. I also put my seat on which has 2 more inches under my ass and is comfy as hell, I just think I am going to have to have it altered as the front part that covers up the tank bolt (under my crotch) seems like it is not quite right. Again, sorry no camera. Once I get a house of my own there will be more pics I promise! lol

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Check for spark, OK it works...

Startin to sound like me!!!

But, yeah... may as well do the dynamic thing later. It will probly like dead nuts or real close!

Cheers.