Building a GPZ1150 from a CSR1000

I'm guessing that you weren't turning that drill bit fast enough to work properly. Carbide tools need ALOT of surface footage (rpm) to cut properly. Might be a job for a machine shop with a high speed spindle like a mill. Tell me where you got the sprocket, and I'll try to find out the hardness spec from the manufacturer. Once I know how hard it really is, then I can give you a recommendation on the proper rpm. Those little 1/8" drills need to turn really fast. I'll need to check the good old Machineries Handbook at work tomorrow. I'm almost certain that you could drill that sprocket with a carbide drill. Heck I have drilled out plenty of taps with those things. Also need to be absolutely sure that there are no broken carbide pieces left in the sprocket. If for some reason, we can't arrive at a speed and feed that works, then you could always have an EDM shop poke those holes for you.

It's already mounted and I am not taking it back off unless it comes off bu itself.

Maybe you could put a tick mark across the end of the countershaft that is lined up with one on the nut. That way you could keep an eye on the alignment of the marks. It would tell you right away if it is slipping. Just pop the cover off at every oil change or so to get a look at it.

I have the same issue with my offset sprocket. i just used blue locktite. So far so good.

That's not a bad idea. Just put a tamper dot across the assembly. Just use a marker or something. At least the sprocket went onto the spline quite tight. That should prevent it from working itself loose.

Last night I also managed to take off and disassemble the starboard fork tube. That is the one that was leaking. It started leaking about two weeks after I rebuilt it the last time. The strange part is, that everything looked good. One thing that I did notice, was that I was flexing the tubes inward because the wheel spacers were too loose and I was tightening in on the axle. This may have been causing some kind of undesirable distortion in the seal and making it leak. I will have to make some shims to space out the front wheel properly. I also have some new "Progressive Suspensions" fork springs which are much stiffer. I was bottoming out just way too much with the stock springs. I checked the top bushing and it is in very good condition, so I know it is not that.

Well, I finished almost everything I wanted to finish yesterday. The 530 sprockets are mounted and the forks have been rebuilt. I did not have any fork oil on hand and did not feel like driving all the way to the bike shop. I did a little research and found that a lot of guys run synthetic ATF in the forks. Since I have a dodge van which uses Synthetic ATF, I have plenty on hand.
I also bought a set of new fork springs. Or so I thought. Unfortunately I discovered that they were actually for a KZ/GPz550. Kind of ticks me off because I bought them a while ago and can no longer return them. They are much smaller in diameter than springs that I require. I decided to improvise. I took a pair of old valve springs which are exactly the same size of my fork springs and stacked them on top of the old spring, inner spring and all. It was a little challenging to force everything in but not as hard as I expected it to be. The front end now feels much better than it did. I installed a new set of K&S fork seals, which I feel are the best seals I have ever used. They have an extra wiper lip on the inner section and an extra lip on the outer section. I think that they will hold. I also put an extra spacer between the fork tube and the tach drive which took out the flex that I had between the tubes before. I am anxious to take it out and try it out a bit more than I did yesterday around the block.

Here are some pictures of the 630 to 530 conversion with the new gear ratio.

And the rear. My final ratio now is 2.22:1. 18 front 40 rear.

I also took the opportunity to install a new APE cam chain tensioner which i bought from Joe Hooper at Pit Stop Performance.

If there is any acceleration difference with this extremely low gear ratio, the only time I can tell is when I first release the clutch. Once the engine gets any kind of RPM, it takes off like a "Bat Out of Hell" I only did it once and it was for a very short distance but what I think I saw was 110mph at 8K RPM in third gear. At which time I have already covered the one or so blocks and had to slow down for my turn. Today it is not raining anymore so i will run it again, and watch the GPS a bit closer. That is how I do the speed testing to avoid any speedo error.

For the first time today I took my 18/40 sprockets on the hi-way. First thing I want to say, is that while doing 60mph I have to downshift to 2nd gear. That brings me to about 6500rpm and my powerband. If I downshift only to third I bring the revs to about 4300 at that speed and obviously it has not the pickup you would want. I can get to 60mph and not hit redline in first :woohoo: .