Building a GPZ1150 from a CSR1000

This MSD is one of the best performance investments I have ever made. Talking about smoothing out any remaining roughness. More power, smother idle, Elimination of any and all flat spots in response. AND BETTER GAS MILLAGE! I recently picked up another MSD unit for another project. I think that I will never run without one on a modified bike. They are big and hard to hide but worth it. MSD MC-1, MC-2, MC-3, or MC-4, take your pick depending what your wallet can take They are all worth it. The MC-1 - MC-3 all do about the same thing. The MC-4 is a full self contained ignition system that is fully programmable from a lap top. For me, the MC-1/2 is good enough. Heck, I wish I could afford a MSD MC-4. Now I will pick up a set of Dyna 0.7 Ohm coils for it. That will extend the coil life. Apparently the lower the resistance of the coils the longer the coil life.

Good to know Otakar- I can't recall reading about anyone else running the MSD ignition on their bike. I know the MSD box did wonders for my Porsche-it's nice to know the option is there for my bike too. Does it work with a Dyna S pick up, or does it have its own?

It will work with either the Dyna III, Dyna-S, OE Kawasaki IC ignition, Loudhvx's GM ignition, or POINTS. You have to use the full amplified signal not just the pickups. I.E. you must use the IC box from the Kawasaki, not just the pickups.

Great thread Otto.Hows about a walk thru of the front fork conversion.Have a set of KZ1000P forks I want to put on my 1982 CSR -bike already has mags instead of wires so no issue there.However,the center axle P forks have a larger diameter axle clamp and the caliper mount holes,while the same distance apart ,have a different reinforcing spline.Also,even though the forks are 38 mm od,they look a tad longer than the stockers so am concerned about raising the front end up even more-I need to go down secondary to the longer swing arm Thanks in advance for the help.bj (finally found the thread-lol).

What year police forks are they? The ones you are trying to mount. Police forks came in two diameters.

96-38mm diameter.bj

Those will fit in the CSR tree. They will wind up being a bit shorter than the stock forks. What wheel are you using? You might either have to change bearings in it or cut down the front wheel nuts. I decided to go with the larger (older stile) bearings and I decreased the diameter of the wheel nuts on a lathe. I wanted to use the larger axle. You will also have to make sure that the spacing between the wheel and the fork lower is shimmed properly for the correct spacing. Also you will have to get the right size spedo drive for what axle you chose to go with. You will also have to match the caliper mounts to the right size rotor. You might even have to make a new caliper mount. I am not sure which calipers you are using. This will take a bit of mix and match on your part. I went with the KZ1000J forks and they have a bit different caliper mount. and the smaller axle opening.

ok,thanks.It appears that the best solution for me using these forks is to machine a collar for the standard axle,retain the stock elec .speedo drive,machine the rib on the P forks so that the stock calipers will fit and shim the stock wheel to fit the forks. Chasing parts is time consuming as u well know, and I am better at fabbing than chasing-cant run very fast any more.Plus I have already rebuilt these forks and hate to waste them.Thanks again for the input.bj

They are good forks. There are plenty of calipers out on eBay to use on them. I have three sets for mine.

Funny this came up, I was planning on throwing the forks from my 83 GPz11 into the trees from my 82 LTD, but the GPz forks are smaller than the LTD ones, go figure.

Yes, when Kawi went to the "anti-dive" forks, they made them 1mm smaller. You have to use .020" shim stock around the tube to make up the difference. Brass or aluminum shim is the best.

otakar wrote:

Yes, when Kawi went to the "anti-dive" forks, they made them 1mm smaller. You have to use .020" shim stock around the tube to make up the difference. Brass or aluminum shim is the best.

Where does one get this shim stock?