Building a GPZ1150 from a CSR1000

Not to mention, how did you do it?

The thickness is between .0006-.0008" (.015-.02mm)on the Molly. The longevity will depend on how loose the pistons are in the sleaves. The closser the fit the longer it will last. If it is too sloppy and you have a lot of piston slapp, it will ware out quite quick. The ceramic on the crowns will prevent buildup. I am thinking of also doing the insides of the combustion chambers. After some long hard work and experimentation I have finaly developed a method where the ceramis adheres very well, and I can apply it thick enough where it will make a nice diference in preventing heat transfer to the underneath of the piston dome. The thickness on the Ceramic is about .003" (.075mm)

Just for info.- The Ceramic coating can prevent about 200*f of heat transfer for every .001" of thickness. .003 being the maximum safe thickness.

otakar wrote:

Just for info.- The Ceramic coating can prevent about 200*f of heat transfer for every .001" of thickness. .003 being the maximum safe thickness.

Just speculating here, if u prevent the heat transfer through the piston crown, the chamber will get hotter . this would cause detonation at a lower compresion ratio wouldnt it.
isnt the piston suposed to take heat away? same with the combution chamber.

Not the piston. You want as little heat in the piston as possible. Because the piston theoretically should not make contact with anything due to an oil barrier around every possible contact point, all the heat would stay in it with the exception of the oil splash under the crown. This oil than will bake onto the lower part of the crown. As for the cylinder head, most of the heat should go out the exhaust. Now once again the heat transfer goes in reverse. Once the heat is in the head, it gets transfered into the combustion chamber. This means, that what ever temperature the head is, the inside of the combustion chamber should theoretically be that much cooler. This barrier just forces more of the heat to go out the exhaust. This is what these coatings have been developed for. This raises the actual combustion temperature by not allowing the heat to be transfered to any of the containing metal. This forces more efficient fuel burn, meaning more power. The higher the temperature INSIDE the chamber the higher the pressure builds up, more power.

I did forget a small thing. The hotter the head gets and the piston gets, the higher the temperature obviously stays inside the cylinder after the exhaust cycle. This means that the intake charge also heats up much faster and therefore less of it can be sucked into the cylinder during the intake cycle. If you have less charge inside the cylinder, you have less power. The Ceramic has the effect of preventing heat transfer in both directions.

I SEE. THIS MAKES SENCE.
I have read that the parts can retain heat and create hot spots, witch intern can pre ignite. So this will actually help these internal parts run cooler.

Ceramic coatings are being used on these components by all of the top builders. They are an inexpensive way to extend engine life and increase performance. I have done quite a few components for a bunch of people. You can't go wrong if you know what you are doing. I will be selling an 11:1 1140 kit (74mm) for the pre-81 bikes which i did a little while ago. I was going to use it on my bike but since I decided to go to the 84 GPZ head I had to go to different crowns.

Just received the September issue of Cycle World. In the new ideas column Wiseco is offering a skirt coating that looks very similar to yours. Funny as they say it's a patented coating, calling it ArmorGlide, probably the same material or a close cousin. In usual Cycle World fashion they are skeptical until tried. The last statement was it "allegedly" will last the life of the piston.

The Molly coating on piston skirts is not a new idea. It has been around for quite a while. Not sure what Wiseco patented.

I just found it on the web. I don't think it is patented, but they trademarked (@) the name ArmorGlide@.
www.amateurmx.com/new1/index.php?option=...oducts&Itemid=800119



I personally have been doing this process for about 4 years now, along with the Ceramic crowns.

Personally, I vary the thickness of the coating. I make it thicker on the front and back, in comparison to the sides. I also make it thicker at the bottom than the top. Also the Ceramic coating must be applied first, than the Molly.